Can the 92 DA length of trigger pull be shortened? Is the Wilson Combat Action Tune trigger bar difficult to “fit” filing metal ? Does the short reach steel trigger affect the feel of pull? What is benefit of replacing sear and sear spring? Isn’t a worn sear essentially polished thru use and one with 2000 rounds should feel better than a new one?
Can the 92 DA length of trigger pull be shortened? Wilson Short Trigger helps.
Is the Wilson Combat Action Tune trigger bar difficult to “fit” filing metal ? Very little if any is required. YouTube has lots of videos.
Does the short reach steel trigger affect the feel of pull? Yes and no. - Weight No. Reach, yes.
What is benefit of replacing sear and sear spring? Sorry can't answer this one effectively.
Isn’t a worn sear essentially polished thru use and one with 2000 rounds should feel better than a new one? Sure, but polishing one in the right spots, can remove any burrs or deficient spots that drag.
Mr. Langdon has a trigger in a bag, if you are trying to improve pull, try that.
Last edited by Arbninftry; 12-29-2017 at 08:07 AM.
In the traditional 'length of pull' measurement the short reach trigger will reduce it. At rest, the distance from the back strap to the trigger will be shorter. But, to clarify, the trigger will still need to move the same distance as the standard trigger. Once the gun has fired the trigger will be much closer to the grip.
The new Wilson Hammer is supposed to eliminate some takeup, which in theory, means shorter trigger travel. Keep in mind though, that in DA trigger travel is exactly what you WANT and what its best design advantage is. Less travel means less safety benefit, shorter hammer arc etc. . . The triggers can be smoothed and lightened, and the single action can be cleaned up with sear/hammer engagement surface polishing and truing, but reduction in travel/reset length is (IMHO) a fools errand.
I installed the WC short reach trigger in my 92FS years ago. It reduces trigger reach slightly. I did not attempt any measurements, but I do not believe that it shortened the overall length of the DA trigger pull at all, nor do I see how it could as the relative location of the holes for the trigger pin and trigger bar seemed identical.
If you want a lighter DA trigger pull, switch to a reduced power mainspring.
Don't know if it's available in US but the Beretta Italy online store has a competition trigger with bot pre-and overtravel hex screws, you have to trim the pretravel one and you can effectively reduce any amount of slack in DA (little hint of pretravel before actual DA begin), you can tune the trigger bar but is way more tricky. Bending sear spring is something I don't do, tried many times but you would have far better results stoning carefully the sear. With use, sear and hammer polishes somewhat to a point where less creep is perceived, but the real problem is that contact points are not exactly square from factory, to have a really good SA you have to stone down the hammer height. I've found however that unless you want to compete with a 92 at high level, and you are really picky about trigger, the factory one is perfectly useable, sure you can bring it to a REALLY good point (I really think that the 92 action lend itself to the most beautiful DA/SA pull of all combat pistols) but the stock one is perfectly good. I've had great succes swapping the mainspring with a 18lbs 1911 one (colt ones for the gold cup are the best IMHO), in Italy a guy sells a titanium striker that ignite reliably with a 15 lbs 1911 mainspring, and you would have a ridiculously low trigger pull weight in da (think 4.5lbs) but for the vast majority of uses is not necessary. One thing that is worth its weight in gold is a new trigger return spring made from a stiffer gauge wire that the stock one (ore you can use the wolff conversion, but it's really rough from factory). Reset feeling (not reach) is improved. The short reach wilson trigger is really good shortening trigger reach, but I have medium to large hands and I don't like it too much. However the single best mod you can do to a 92 is slim grips, and a reduced power mainspring, nothing else is really necessary. Back in the old days we bought three mainspring, and cut one coil at a time until we experienced misfires, then we cut 2 coils less than the previous one, a short trip to the sander to flatten coils end, and voila, done. Hope it helps.
Is there a Utube showing how to file/stone a Beretta 92 sear? I would like to KNOW I am not making the pistol less safe by inadequate sear engagement. I guess you always have the firing pin block requiring trigger depressing. Also, why do recommend thin grips? Do thin grips reduce lateral pistol movement thru better trigger control?
Thinner grips will reduce the trigger reach to the DA trigger a little if that is an issue. It sounds as if you are looking to reduce the DA trigger pull length, however. If you are still running a stock mainspring, you should definitely try some reduced power mainsprings before you go messing around with stoning the sear.
I have the Beretta D hammer spring installed vs the stock spring (16 lb vs 20 I believe). I think I will try a Wilson Combat 14 lb hammer spring before trying any more complicated changes. I have no had any light primer strikes with D springOriginally Posted by pblanc
I had a few light primer strikes with eastern European steel case ammo using a WC 13lb spring in my 92FS, but not with commercial brass case ammo. I currently have the 14lb WC spring in it and have not had any light strikes.
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