Rail choices

[LOKNLOD]

I've done it a couple times now, so it's not engineer-proof level difficulty, Tom.

[Munson]

I tried doing the shave on one of my first rebuilds...but it didn't work out so good. I was new at working on these and was using the wrong punch. I ended up mushrooming the pins and had to have them drilled out by a gunsmith. It also destroyed my gas block in the process. Now that I've got all the right gear, it might be time to try it again. I think that's what I'll do. Now I just gotta wait 8 more weeks till I can put weight on my bum leg and get out to the shop. Thanks guys

Every time I've seen it done, people remove the gas block, do the work, then reinstall. Has anyone ever tried doing it with the block on the rifle still? Just a thought

[shootist26]

I have a pinned muzzle device. Can I still do this with the fsb attached to the barrel? Not sure if a hacksaw will put too much stress on the barrel. An angle grinder might be another option?

[rob_s]

I have a pinned muzzle device. Can I still do this with the fsb attached to the barrel? Not sure if a hacksaw will put too much stress on the barrel. An angle grinder might be another option?

It *can* be done without removing the FSB. I suggest the hacksaw and hand files vs. angle grinder and dremel simply because the probability of a slip and a dig into the barrel itself is greater with power tools.

Just be aware, if you aren't already, that many free-float handguards come with proprietary barrel nuts, so you won't be able to use any of those as even a shaved FSB won't let a barrel nut past. I'd suggest a Centurion Arms handguard which will bolt right up to your stock barrel nut and go over your freshly-shaved FSB.

[shootist26]

It *can* be done without removing the FSB. I suggest the hacksaw and hand files vs. angle grinder and dremel simply because the probability of a slip and a dig into the barrel itself is greater with power tools.

Just be aware, if you aren't already, that many free-float handguards come with proprietary barrel nuts, so you won't be able to use any of those as even a shaved FSB won't let a barrel nut past. I'd suggest a Centurion Arms handguard which will bolt right up to your stock barrel nut and go over your freshly-shaved FSB.

centurion arms is exactly what I have. I have the 12 inch FSP cutout right now on my 14.5" carbine. Decided it to trade it for the normal 12 inch rail and use a DD fixed front sight instead.

[JM Campbell]

I like my FSB cutout centurion rail.

[rob_s]

I like my FSB cutout centurion rail.

I actually think this is a good option, but apparently they aren't making these anymore? When I was looking for them last year I couldn't find anything. Not in the market anymore, but eventually some folks told me they were discontinued.

[Munson]

Just be aware, if you aren't already, that many free-float handguards come with proprietary barrel nuts, so you won't be able to use any of those as even a shaved FSB won't let a barrel nut past. I'd suggest a Centurion Arms handguard which will bolt right up to your stock barrel nut and go over your freshly-shaved FSB.

I honestly wasn't even thinking about that. It looks like I'll have to take it off to do it unless I go with a rail that uses the stock barrel nut like the Centurion.

[shootist26]

I'm getting close to being convinced this is as easy as the internet says it is. When I get some free time I'm going to have to try it.

I did this yesterday. Was not too difficult, even more somebody like me who's never done this before

I used a hacksaw for the initial cut. Then, a dremel w/ heavy duty cutting wheel and a grinding wheel to make the detailed cuts and finishing. My centurion rail is pretty narrow and there is not a whole lot of clearance inside. I ended up having to remove more material than I thought. Basically, I had to turn the whole thing as flush as possible.

Did not look pretty, but I think it will work.

[shootist26]

A buddy of mine who has done a bunch of those for his agency, uses a dremel and a cut off wheel, then some sort of abrasive head to clean it up. He does a really clean job, and it takes him about 1 hour per gun, fwiw.

What does he use the coat the bare metal?

Would something like the birchwood casey liquid blue stuff be sufficient for temperature and corrosion issues?