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Thread: CCW Straight knives

  1. #361


    Using the above anatomy diagram, I will retract the term "spine" as I did not mean it as how it is depicted above, for simplifying the terminology so that it is understandable.

    Blade grip design is also important, the RAT has a grip that is just slightly thicker than the blade, and allows the spine of the blade (center of the spear point) to be above the grip, there is logic in that based from experience of use (a pedigree, if you will) while the K2 has a thick grip with a huge groove that does not share the same characteristics.
    Essentially look at the end of the Primary Bevel where it meets a Secondary Bevel on both blades. On the RAT the primary bevel ends with about 1/4 of the blade beveled to a spear point. The K2's primary bevel ends with about 1/2 of the blade beveled to a spear point.

    Now look at the line of the primary bevel on both blades, I called this line the "spine" but for simplicity it is the line where two bevel's meet or the "grind line" or the "center face" of the blade, whichever makes it easier for the concept to be understood.

    If you look at the K2 the large finger groove ends just above this line, and there are no other groove so your hand is slightly off center, upward (towards the back of the blade) facing, this will move your grip off-center of the "grind line" essentially making you fight the blade when you are using it. If you look at the RAT, it is almost at the same exact spot where the first groove ends.

    Unless the K2 was designed as a Japanese style slashing sword, its grip should not be offline from the point:

    http://www.sakuramartialarts.com/v/v...anatomy001.gif



    See the "SORI" line? That is the line from edge to bade, if that line (called something different in English, though I can't seem to find it right now) is behind the grip then the blade is designed for slashing.

    If you look another blade made by the same guy who makes the RAT, the Drengar:



    The center of the blade, the tip is run down the middle, this blade is made specifically for stabbing, deep penetration with very little to no fighting against the blade.

    The RAT is designed slightly in the same manner, allowing for a primary "stabbing" function, but also is good at slashing because of the overall design of the blade.

    As I said, some blades have pedigree's than others, and there is a lot more, but that's not for me to explain online.
    Last edited by Gray222; 11-28-2015 at 09:33 AM.

  2. #362
    Member orionz06's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom_Jones View Post
    I'm confused. I thought the Dynamis blade and the RAT were different knives made by different people.
    Yeah, I'm lost as well. There isn't enough time to keep track of who is supposed to hate who in those groups.
    Think for yourself. Question authority.

  3. #363
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom_Jones View Post
    I'm confused. I thought the Dynamis blade and the RAT were different knives made by different people.
    It's for the Dynamis blade, not the RAT: https://www.dynamisalliance.com/gear/dynamis-blade

    $367 for blade / trainer / sheath. Awesome!

  4. #364
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    Quote Originally Posted by jc000 View Post
    It's for the Dynamis blade, not the RAT: https://www.dynamisalliance.com/gear/dynamis-blade

    $367 for blade / trainer / sheath. Awesome!
    Actually comes out to $447.

  5. #365
    Quote Originally Posted by Up1911Fan View Post
    Actually comes out to $447.
    Not in my cart it didn't. There are multiple packages. Above was for singled edged without the military / LE sheath.

  6. #366
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom_Jones View Post
    I'm confused. I thought the Dynamis blade and the RAT were different knives made by different people.
    Sorry, meant the Dynamis blade... Got myself confused with too many tabs open.

  7. #367
    voodoo_man, thanks for the detailed reply. It looks to me like the primary bevel on both blades is approximately half the width of the blade. Were you referring to the small swedge on the RAT vs. the spear point grind on the K2?

    It appears to me that both blades have a handle offset relative to the blade. The RAT has more ergonomic curves while the K2 doesn't, though. I can see where the K2 finger groove is deeper, but won't both designs point the blade slightly forward?

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    ETA: orange line is the grind line/primary bevel, green segments showing proportion of swedge/spear point grind relative to rest of blade.
    Last edited by Attila; 11-28-2015 at 12:35 PM. Reason: explaining diagram

  8. #368
    The blades are not aligned the same in the photos so its a little off, but I hope you guys get the concept. You want a stabby type blade to be designed for stabbing and a slashy for slashing.

  9. #369
    Member
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    Thanks for the 411 on the Dynamis discount, I bought one. I've been wanting one but even with the LEO discount it was a little too much $$$. $447 shipped ain't cheap but considering it's made by Winkler, has a really nice sheath and a quality trainer I think it's worth it at that price.

    On a side note I've been carrying a recently aquired RAT and I really like it. It's slighly smaller than my Bloodshark, the blade is of a design that I can use for everyday tasks and it locks into the hand when going all stabby with it. It also appears to be made very well.

  10. #370
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDM View Post
    Criminal and wrong are not always the same thing.
    Loving this quote.

    If you aren't investing some amount of money in stashing inexpensive knives everywhere you may need one, you're not adequately preparing. Are good knives better? Sure. But for what a Spyderco Delica costs, I can buy half a dozen 3" paring knives that will do the job of ruining someone's day and be completely and utterly invisible to most people. A sheathed paring knife in a backpack with a fork and spoon? Utensils. A paring knife in your desk drawer at work? A letter opener/apple slicer. A paring knife in the glovebox with some duct tape? Emergency kit for dealing with a blown heater hose.

    Brightly colored ones are virtually invisible to most people as innocuous tools and frankly that is what they are. In NPEs I've seen visceral reactions to pocket knives with clips. A Clinch Pick unconcealed on my belt? Forget it. But a paring knife in my desk drawer? No biggy. One in my bag and I use it to slice an apple at lunch? It's just a tool. On my way home, I can slip it in my pocket. If I set it up properly a quick attach/detach static cord can go on and it can be conveniently secreted on my person. It can be disposed of without significant financial or sentimental loss. I can't say the same for some of my other knives. If a cop took the Emerson CQC-9 custom folder that my wife and I got together at our first Blade Show I would be fucking devastated about that loss (which is also why I never carry the damn thing).

    I certainly appreciate carrying a stout, effective knife, and do so with regularity. I also recognize the utility of having a sharp knife, anywhere and everywhere I may spend significant time. It's just handy to do that. Plus, every once in awhile, I forget to put a knife on and it's nice to have a spare. Just make sure you empty them out before heading to the airport. Of course...if it's a $4 paring knife that TSA takes, who cares?

    -Rob

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