Okay..let's talk about S&W Bodyguards

[Mike Pipes]

36 NO DASH,BIANCHI CLIP HOLSTER CARRIED AT 1:30 WHEN PRIMARY. 125 GR NYCLAD HP.RELOADS ARE OTHER J'S AND SPEED STRIPS. YES IT IS HARD TO REHOLSTER BUT I FIGER WHEN PUSH COMES TO SHOVE I WILL DROP IT AND GET ANOTHER................CYA RETRO

Sorry about caps and fat fingered numbers...it is a Mdl 38 not 36

[Malamute]

Additionally, back then MSP had a neat innovation that I would implement for our guys if I was king. Their uniform trousers had leather-lined front pockets, the purpose being so that a trooper could keep his issue J frame in one of his front pockets for quick access.

Its a fabulous concept. But I called the MSP FTU and spoke with an old-timer who remembered that practice; he said they quit doing it because of the cost of the trousers.

I recalled reading long ago about frontier days guys having canvas linings put in their pockets for carrying. I bought some heavy canvas from a local tent maker and am looking into how to line the pocket with it. I've repaired the pockets in my carhartts several times from the front sight wearing through.

[LSP972]

I recalled reading long ago about frontier days guys having canvas linings put in their pockets for carrying. I bought some heavy canvas from a local tent maker and am looking into how to line the pocket with it. I've repaired the pockets in my carhartts several times from the front sight wearing through.

Yes, there really is not much "new under the sun" in this game; just refinements to already-tried ideas.

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[SamAdams]

I'd be all over a new production no-lock 638.

+1

I'm a big fan of the Bodyguard. - O.K. being able to shoot single action when distances are longer has its appeal to me.
I even considered getting a new 638, removing the lock, and putting The PLUG in. But, last I heard, the fellow making the plug has medical problems and isnt selling them now. I didnt look further into
the reliability of the part after hearing this.

[LSP972]

+1

I'm a big fan of the Bodyguard. - O.K. being able to shoot single action when distances are longer has its appeal to me.
I even considered getting a new 638, removing the lock, and putting The PLUG in. But, last I heard, the fellow making the plug has medical problems and isnt selling them now. I didnt look further into
the reliability of the part after hearing this.

Sorry to hear that… The Plug works like a champ.

But there is another way to deactivate that Satan's spawn lock without any potential for down-the-road disaster… IF you are comfortable detail-stripping a J frame.

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[SamAdams]

Sorry to hear that… The Plug works like a champ.

But there is another way to deactivate that Satan's spawn lock without any potential for down-the-road disaster… IF you are comfortable detail-stripping a J frame.

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Ive watched this YouTube video quite a few times. Very good indtructions for lock removal. It would be nice if The Plug was still available. But I wouldnt have a problem with opening up the gun and taking out the lock. As long as I went at it slowly, - step by step.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM

[Hambo]

Sweet. My first J frame was a stainless Bodyguard and I promptly ordered a T grip adapter for it. 1980's cool was an L frame and a J frame combo.

[LSP972]

Ive watched this YouTube video quite a few times. Very good indtructions for lock removal. It would be nice if The Plug was still available. But I wouldnt have a problem with opening up the gun and taking out the lock. As long as I went at it slowly, - step by step.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM

Yes, but that dude makes THE classic mistake- he just removes the flag and re-assembles the action parts. What that does is set you up for disaster, because now you have created a 1.5mm gap (the width of the flag) between the hammer and the remaining lock mechansim.

I know, because I did the same thing. Five years and several thousand rounds later, that remaining cylindrical lock mechanism got jarred loose from recoil and fell in against the hammer; effectively locking the gun up as tight as if the lock was engaged.

What you need to do is grind that cylindrical nub on the flag (the part that engages the hammer) off and put the flag back in place.

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[JodyH]

On my 360 I removed all the lock parts and just have an open hole where the lock used to be. So far it hasn't been a problem other than I clean the guts twice a year instead of once with my 442/plug.

[SamAdams]

@LSP962 & JodyH - thanks guys ! Good info to know - take care of the whole thing, not just part of it.