If you have a driver that takes replaceable bits, you can just buy the $4 bit for the rebound tool.Originally Posted by NEPAKevin
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/199...d-slide-spring
Ballpoint pen is great for reinstalling, though.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...o-prod406.aspxAny particular tools beyond the normal gun hand tools you would used, or wish you had?
I don't care if you have a 100 bit set. Don't count on having the snowflake bits S&W uses. $8 is cheap insurance.
The bit for the yoke screw is an oddball. One review notes that it doesn't fit the screw on their 625. Mine are all sloppier than I'd like That review says a 180-4 bit solved their problem. I tried one and it was too thick. YMMV.
I should note that if you're buying the newer yoke screw assembly with the spring loaded plunger they are the same for everything but J-frames. The older fit screws are, IIRC, not. So I would expect some variation in slot thickness, even for the new design.
Other than correct bits and the rebound widget, nothing springs to mind in terms of tools for what you're doing.
I would not expect any mainspring to necessarily drop in and still be 100% reliable with all primers. I have *two* 686s, one made in 1999 at the beginning of the MIM revolution and one made in 2014 that will either not work with Wolff "factory" strength mainsprings (yes, Type 1) due to light strikes (yes, with both types of new round butt strain screws) or due to the rebound hitting the mainspring when actuating the trigger. I have tried numerous generations of the Wolff Type 1 spring, including the old plain black springs, the newer grey coated springs, and a 2015 manufactured black (again) spring. All exhibited some sort of problem with both new, unmodified strain screws.
In a fit of irony I guess, the factory supplied Wolff Type 2 ("competition only") spring that came in my 627 will set off seemingly anything, including S&B eurocaps.
While these problems aren't insurmountable (advice on benos is to use #8-32 machine/set screws for extra preload; I never got around to trying) if you don't go into this endeavor expecting everything to just drop in you're less likely to be disappointed. Revolvers, like 1911s, are pretty pretty snowflakes when it comes to fitting parts. Sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you don't.
If you change out the mainspring for anything other than the factory, OEM, oversprung heavy black unit, test it thoroughly with carry ammo. Personally, I'd test it with CCI Magnum primers at the softest. I'd round up some eurocaps if I were the belt and suspenders type.
YMMV.
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