I have well over 2000 problem free rounds through a GEN4 G17 with a minus connector and a GEN3 trigger bar...but this thread has motivated me to install the orange plate and verify the engagement surfaces.
I have well over 2000 problem free rounds through a GEN4 G17 with a minus connector and a GEN3 trigger bar...but this thread has motivated me to install the orange plate and verify the engagement surfaces.
"When the phone rang, Parker was in the garage, killing a man."
I look at so many of these with regularity that I pretty much eyeball it. I stick with the spec 1/3 overlap for engagement with orange plate.
I will note that there is a ton of stuff that can be done to these triggers besides the standard changing of parts and simple polishing. But altering trigger fulcrum points, trigger bar tails, ends of the cruciform (sear) or striker lugs should be avoided by your average DIYer. Of course we all learned at some point but that was under very controlled testing and actually having some solid knowledge of smithing and triggers in general. I often talk about basic trigger stuff and that was seen in some past video I had out there, but I decline to get into certain aspects of trigger jobs and that goes for all weapons, not just the Glock.
I didn't realize Todd was carrying a Glock again.
Are you moving away from the 1911?
Originally Posted by montanadave
I agree, very few will need a Joe D. conversion trigger "altering fulcrum points" which I have seen with trigger pulls below 2.0#. A Glock trigger bar "for competition only" can be greatly improved by removing all rough spots and polishing well after changing the contour of the nose only.
I am using the below wolff springs and the Glock Dot Connector in all my Glocks at the moment replaced with the Smooth Trigger.
6lb Extra Power Striker Spring
Reduced Power Safety Block Plunger Spring
6lb Extra Power Trigger Spring
Historically I've been loathe to use an extra power coil trigger spring. I've always preferred the NY1 spring because it's preventing the gun from firing, while the coiled spring is trying to make the gun fire. Having parts in the Glock that are trying to make it go bang never really appealed to me.
OTOH, looking at it logically, it's no different than having a heavier mainspring (hammer spring) in a hammer fired gun. They're both trying to push the action to fire, and they're both relying on the mechanical interference between parts to prevent that.
I'll probably also grab a 5# striker spring since there appears to be near-unanimous agreement that it improves the trigger pull without a negative impact on reliability.
Just ordered a pair of Taran Tactical connectors. One of the "full kit" companies has also sent me something to try.
I've run an extra power trigger spring in the past. I didn't note any reliability issues resulting from its use, but it was only in the gun for ~10,000 rounds. This was also using a Gen 3 trigger bar, which has less engagement as you've noted previously.
I think the trigger spring will make an equal difference for you vs. the 5.0 lb. striker spring in terms of shaving trigger pull weight. Not certain it'll give your the reset feel you're after though.