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Thread: Glock Triggers Redux -- Archer Edition

  1. #191
    Site Supporter JSGlock34's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    USA
    I have well over 2000 problem free rounds through a GEN4 G17 with a minus connector and a GEN3 trigger bar...but this thread has motivated me to install the orange plate and verify the engagement surfaces.
    "When the phone rang, Parker was in the garage, killing a man."

  2. #192
    Quote Originally Posted by Jaywalker View Post
    Surf, do you verify engagement with an armorers half plate and eyeball or do you have another method?
    I look at so many of these with regularity that I pretty much eyeball it. I stick with the spec 1/3 overlap for engagement with orange plate.

    I will note that there is a ton of stuff that can be done to these triggers besides the standard changing of parts and simple polishing. But altering trigger fulcrum points, trigger bar tails, ends of the cruciform (sear) or striker lugs should be avoided by your average DIYer. Of course we all learned at some point but that was under very controlled testing and actually having some solid knowledge of smithing and triggers in general. I often talk about basic trigger stuff and that was seen in some past video I had out there, but I decline to get into certain aspects of trigger jobs and that goes for all weapons, not just the Glock.

  3. #193
    Quote Originally Posted by Surf View Post
    For a carry weapon, all Glock components, a simple latest Gen3 trigger bar and a Glock minus connector is about all the more anyone really could want. Verify your engagement and cleaning up internals is not offensive to me if one knows what they are doing. Of course if I am wearing my Glock hat, I will say that no modifications to the pistol outside of factory Glock parts / specifications.
    Surf, when you say engagement, do you mean the relationship between the end of the trigger bar and the connector?

  4. #194
    PensFan
    Member
    Quote Originally Posted by warpedcamshaft View Post
    Surf, when you say engagement, do you mean the relationship between the end of the trigger bar and the connector?
    Relationship between the cruciform/sear and the striker is where engagement is measured.

  5. #195
    I didn't realize Todd was carrying a Glock again.

    Are you moving away from the 1911?
    Quote Originally Posted by montanadave
    My wife has already written my obituary which, in part, attributes my death to complications from my second penis reduction surgery.

  6. #196
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Walker,La.
    Quote Originally Posted by Surf View Post
    I look at so many of these with regularity that I pretty much eyeball it. I stick with the spec 1/3 overlap for engagement with orange plate.

    I will note that there is a ton of stuff that can be done to these triggers besides the standard changing of parts and simple polishing. But altering trigger fulcrum points, trigger bar tails, ends of the cruciform (sear) or striker lugs should be avoided by your average DIYer. Of course we all learned at some point but that was under very controlled testing and actually having some solid knowledge of smithing and triggers in general. I often talk about basic trigger stuff and that was seen in some past video I had out there, but I decline to get into certain aspects of trigger jobs and that goes for all weapons, not just the Glock.
    I agree, very few will need a Joe D. conversion trigger "altering fulcrum points" which I have seen with trigger pulls below 2.0#. A Glock trigger bar "for competition only" can be greatly improved by removing all rough spots and polishing well after changing the contour of the nose only.

  7. #197
    Member ffhounddog's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Huntsville, Alabama
    I am using the below wolff springs and the Glock Dot Connector in all my Glocks at the moment replaced with the Smooth Trigger.

    6lb Extra Power Striker Spring
    Reduced Power Safety Block Plunger Spring
    6lb Extra Power Trigger Spring

  8. #198
    We are diminished
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Historically I've been loathe to use an extra power coil trigger spring. I've always preferred the NY1 spring because it's preventing the gun from firing, while the coiled spring is trying to make the gun fire. Having parts in the Glock that are trying to make it go bang never really appealed to me.

    OTOH, looking at it logically, it's no different than having a heavier mainspring (hammer spring) in a hammer fired gun. They're both trying to push the action to fire, and they're both relying on the mechanical interference between parts to prevent that.

    I'll probably also grab a 5# striker spring since there appears to be near-unanimous agreement that it improves the trigger pull without a negative impact on reliability.

    Just ordered a pair of Taran Tactical connectors. One of the "full kit" companies has also sent me something to try.

  9. #199
    I've run an extra power trigger spring in the past. I didn't note any reliability issues resulting from its use, but it was only in the gun for ~10,000 rounds. This was also using a Gen 3 trigger bar, which has less engagement as you've noted previously.

    I think the trigger spring will make an equal difference for you vs. the 5.0 lb. striker spring in terms of shaving trigger pull weight. Not certain it'll give your the reset feel you're after though.

  10. #200
    Quote Originally Posted by ToddG View Post

    Just ordered a pair of Taran Tactical connectors. One of the "full kit" companies has also sent me something to try.
    I enjoy the way the Taran Tactical connector behaves in my gen 4 g19. It was acceptable enough that I saw no need to do any spring swaps or anything.

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