What type of reduced contact are we talking about with gen 3 trigger bars in gen 4 glocks? I was under the impression that the gen 4 trigger bars only changed the way the bar interacts with the connector, not the striker.
What type of reduced contact are we talking about with gen 3 trigger bars in gen 4 glocks? I was under the impression that the gen 4 trigger bars only changed the way the bar interacts with the connector, not the striker.
Both the owner of Vanek and Glocktriggers.com told me that they would not run anything but an OEM connector in a carry gun.Originally Posted by psalms144.1
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
Depending on the Glocktriggers.com trigger they are OEM components... What's the concern there?
Think for yourself. Question authority.
I believe Vanek and Glocktriggers offer triggers with non OEM parts for gaming, but have OEM parts triggers for carry.
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
Here is the itemized list for the Vogel trigger:
Includes:
- Smooth Trigger w/ Trigger Bar / OEM / Modified & polished
- Trigger Housing w/ Ejector / OEM / Modified & polished (adjustable over-travel)
- 3.5 lb. Connector / OEM polished
- Firing Pin Safety Plunger / OEM polished
- Trigger Spring / OEM polished
- Firing Pin Spring / Wolff reduced power 4.0lb
- Firing Pin Spring / Wolff reduced power 4.5lb
- Firing Pin Spring / Wolff reduced power 5.0lb
- Hex tool / for Over-travel adjustment
- Extra spring cups / OEM
I'm not seeing much issue here other than the potential concerns with the adjustments on travel (removable) and the reduced power springs.
Think for yourself. Question authority.
I'll throw in my 2 cents on Glock triggers. I have been playing with different trigger components for Glock pistol for many, many years. The set up I currently use in all my Glocks now, and works very well. It isn't the lightest, trigger set up out there, but it is dead nuts reliable, has a very clean break, and is very inexpensive, parts totaling about $30 including shipping, if you have to buy all the parts. Now I will say, unless you have a working knowledge of how the Glock trigger functions and how the parts work in conjunction with each other, try this at your own risk. Now that that is out of the way let me detail out my setup.
This set up works in either 4th or 3rd gen pistols, my 4th gen duty 19 is running it. Parts you will need, A 3rd gen trigger bar, smooth or serrated pad, your choice. A standard 5.0 Glock connector, all of the 3.5 "-" connectors and such have a rolling effect that I just can't get past, YMMV. A Zev competition spring kit. I have used others and theirs works the best. Gunsmith polishing stones or an equivalent. Small tube of Flitz, or some type of metal polish.
First and most important and here is where you can get in trouble if you don't know exactly what your doing. FYI this will actually occur over time, parts polishing themselves, but this process aids in achieving a smooth trigger pull from the start. Check all the contact points on the new trigger bar, specifically, where the bar contacts the connector, and striker block. If there are any rough spots, you will need to smooth them out with the stones. Do not get gorilla handed with this process, your just trying to smooth out the rough area. This is quite easy to do and your not removing enough material for any one area to cause any issues. I have done a ton of these, and have measured the modified parts to the the stock parts.
Once this is complete, now time to polish the connector. With a q-tip apply your polishing compound to the connector. It literally takes about 1 minute to polish the flat part of the connector, where the trigger bar runs on it. Once you see a mirror finish on the flat part, your done.
Now for the hard part, and you need to know how to take apart your slide. Remove the striker block, and spring from the slide. (Optional) if you would like to polish up the striker block, or even replace it with an aftermarket one that has been smoothed and polish, feel free. I have done both, and haven't been able to tell a ton if difference either way.
Replace the factory striker block spring with the Zev reduced spring from the competition kit. Again this part will not affect reliability. I have actually measured the reduced springs tension and compared it to other manufactures striker springs and found them to be very close. The Glock factory striker spring is heavier, for whatever reason. Now reassemble the slide. I do not recommend using the reduced striker spring on anything other than a range toy. The possibility of light primer hits etc etc. If you are going to use this as a range gun, then have at it.
(Option 2) you can use the Zev increased trigger return spring if you so desire. I does reduce the trigger pull a tad, but it wasn't very noticeable during combat drills, so I stuck with the factory return spring. The object of this trigger setup is to get the best possible trigger using as many factory parts as possible.
Reassemble the pistol, and lubricate accordingly. The pre travel will now be smooth without the bump of the striker block all the way to the wall. Apply pressure and the trigger breaks clean and should not roll, or have any creep. I find this to be an excellent combat trigger setup. The only non factory part in my setup is the reduced striker block spring. Everything else is factory, so as not to affect reliability. I have been running this setup for a while and my duty G19 has about 10k rounds through it without issue. I have replaced the springs in that pistol once already, routine maintenance, not due to failure.
TXPO
Last edited by Texaspoff; 03-23-2015 at 06:57 AM.
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I just installed one of these the other night, got done, saw the allen wrench sitting in the box, and thought "I wonder what that's for". I'm guessing it's for that over-travel adjustment, which I wouldn't know what to do with anyway.
But, the fact that this trigger is supposed to be all-OEM parts (except springs) is why I chose it, and it's why I use the Guardian in my carry guns. Oddly, so far at least, I seem to prefer the Guardian in the G19s to the Vogel in the G34, in dry-fire.
Which weight spring, Rob?
I have the 4.0 in the G34. I think the Guardian only comes with one.
I gravitate pretty heavily to a stock or nearly stock setup in my Glocks. I am slow to recognize little differences in parts, but sometimes I have the urge to try out different things.
On GJM's suggestion, I'm trying the 5 lb Wolff striker spring. I shot over the weekend with it, including a couple hundred rounds of Gold Dot, a little HST, plus a few hundred more Speer Lawman and Federal Champion. No ignition problems at all.
And it did clean up the trigger pull just a little bit. Per my RCBS gauge, weight is just about half a pound lighter than with the stock 5.5 lb striker spring, but more than that it felt like it cleaned up the break. I really like it and I think it did help me shoot a bit more accurately.
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