Winchester Model 70

[David S.]

I am looking to buy a Pre-64 Model 70 in .30-06. The local Cabela's has a few between $1100 and $1500 and on up. They all seem to be in good shape with some minor cosmetic dings and wear that would be expected from a 50+ year old rifle. I just came away with a serious case of the wantsies (to paraphrase Tam).

I'm looking for a shooter that will get shot with and probably beat up, so I have no interest in collector grade. A couple of buddies and I are planning a CO elk hunt this year and so I'm shopping for a rifle appropriate for CONUS, big game. .30-06 seems reasonable and readily available on the Model 70 platform.

As someone who's never spent any time with bolt rifles, and the Model 70 in particular, what do I need to know?

Knockoffs? One website I ran across said to be on the lookout for knockoffs. Is this a serious issue if I stick to the "normal" calibers? What resources can help guide me through it?

Aftermarket? The Cabela's rep seemed pretty sure that at least a couple had aftermarket stocks. I'd rather stay all original just because, but should I care about this on a sub $1500 working-rifle?

The Cabela's rep also suggested I need to be careful with my scope choice because of the 90* bolt swing. One of the examples had a Leupold VXII 3-9x40 (IIRC) scope mounted. As it was set up, the bolt handle just barely cleared the eyepiece while cycling and seems like would interfere with the hand when manipulating aggressively.

What else should I look for when selecting a vintage rifle?

Cheers,
David

[GJM]

A pre 64 model 70 is my favorite action.

You could do a lot worse for a rifle than buying a .06 featherweight, cut LOP to 13.25 with a limb saver pad, Talley rings and bases, a Leupold 1.75-6 or 2.5-8, a third stud position for a Langlois Ching sling and shoot the crap out of it.

I have one that started out in .06, and is now a 9.3x62. Others that became .338-06, .338WM, .270 and other calibers I have forgotten.

[okie john]

A pre 64 model 70 is my favorite action.

You could do a lot worse for a rifle than buying a .06 featherweight, cut LOP to 13.25 with a limb saver pad, Talley rings and bases, a Leupold 1.75-6 or 2.5-8, a third stud position for a Langlois Ching sling and shoot the crap out of it.

I have one that started out in .06, and is now a 9.3x62. Others that became .338-06, .338WM, .270 and other calibers I have forgotten.

I'm very much in this camp. I've had several custom and semi-custom Model 70's, including in 308, 30/06, 270, 338/06, and 35 Whelen. It helps that I live less than 40 miles from Jim Cloward.

Standard rifles are fine, but I'd hold out for a Featherweight, which is about a pound lighter. I'd get one with a Monte Carlo stock because it will help you get the right cheek weld for using a scope. I also wouldn't get too wound up on making sure you get one that's pristine. The most common ones were in 270 and 30/06.

There are a couple of tricks to getting the most accuracy out of them. If you get a Standard rifle, remove and discard the screw that holds the barrel to the stock--it's under the rear sight boss on the barrel. (The Featherweight doesn't have this one.) On both the Standard and the Featherweight, tighten the action screws like you would a Mauser: crank the front one in tight, crank in the rear one tight then back it out about 1/4 turn. If the middle screw is too tight, the action can rock on it and open up groups, so tighten it just enough to keep it from falling out.

Most of the 30/06's shoot very well with a good 180-grain bullet over 55 grains of 4350, or a 165 over 57 grains of 4350. Shoot your first few groups with those loads. If you adjust the screws as described and the rifle doesn't shoot these loads well, it probably needs work.

I'd ignore the advice about the scope bell clearing the bolt handle. The M-70 bolt handle design is one of the most copied in the world for a reason, and if you're running the bolt like you should be, then it won't be a problem.

Once you get a feel for what an original stock looks like, you'll be able to spot a Bishop or Fajen across the room. I'd prefer a factory Monte Carlo as stated above. The aftermarket ones were meant as upgrades, but rarely succeeded.

Not sure what a knockoff is, but it's not difficult to swap barrels on these rifles, so maybe that's it.

Other than that, make sure that there's no pitting in the bore or chamber and you should be good to go.

The only pitfall to buying a pre-64 Model 70 Featherweight in 30/06 is that you'll never need another rifle unless you hunt African buffalo or pachyderms.


Okie John

[nalesq]

I inherited a pre-64 Model 70 Featherweight in .30-06. I am tempted to chop the barrel down to 18 inches or so to make it more carbine-like. Is this a reasonable idea or am I just going to wind up with a horribly blasty abomination?

[farscott]

Rather than spend $1500 for a real pre-'64 Model 70, I suggest purchasing one of the new ones made in South Carolina as they cost less and have much better machining. The MSRP on the basic model is just under $1000 with the Bud's selling the basic model for $754 and the Super Grade for $1100. You get the benefits of the controlled-feed action combined with FN's current manufacturing prowess.

[NETim]

I inherited a pre-64 Model 70 Featherweight in .30-06. I am tempted to chop the barrel down to 18 inches or so to make it more carbine-like. Is this a reasonable idea or am I just going to wind up with a horribly blasty abomination?

I wouldn't touch it. Cutting up an original Featherweight is a sin.

[LittleLebowski]

Rather than spend $1500 for a real pre-'64 Model 70, I suggest purchasing one of the new ones made in South Carolina as they cost less and have much better machining. The MSRP on the basic model is just under $1000 with the Bud's selling the basic model for $754 and the Super Grade for $1100. You get the benefits of the controlled-feed action combined with FN's current manufacturing prowess.

Agreed.

[David S.]

My local Cabela's had several pre-64's in stock and only one or two in my price range that were standard length, the rest were 22" barrel. As tall as I am, I'm looking for all the LOP I can get.

[GJM]

The new model 70 FN rifles look very nice.

One advantage of the real pre 64 actions is how the rails are integral to the action. Not so much an issue for .06, but an advantage with harder to feed cartridges.

For a complete rifle in .06, I would certainly look at the new stainless synthetic FN 70. As a base for building a custom rifle, I would go real pre-64. The pre 64 featherweights in .06 used to be $500, with the .270 models less common.

A pre 64 combo of an .06 and .375H&H was a do the whole world battery of rifles.

[GJM]

My local Cabela's had several pre-64's in stock and only one or two in my price range that were standard length, the rest were 22" barrel. As tall as I am, I'm looking for all the LOP I can get.

I am 6-1 with 35 inch sleeves, and prefer a shorter LOP for optimal manipulation of the bolt.