Frank Proctor's 10yd zero?

[HCM]

Personally, I would only use a 10 yd zero in an emergency situation where I was not able to have access to a full size range prior to issuing out the gun, or as a quick means to get the gun "Close" and on paper prior to going to the range to fine tune and confirm the zero.

ANY agency that zero's with training ammo and then issues another duty round without confirming the zero of that duty round is setting themselves up to be bitch slapped in civil court should something go wrong.

Yup.
http://www.ialefi.com/conf2013/Instr...TC%202013.docx

[DacoRoman]

Did a 10 yard zero with an aimpoint Pro using a qrp2 mount from prone using 1/2 inch red circle pasties hitting 1.9" low with at least 2 bullet holes touching and then shot out to 200 yards with consistent hits. I also got consistent hits on 6"(?) hanging steel plates at around 100 yards aiming in the lower portion of the plate. Did the zero on my own and tried it out in a Frank Proctor class yesterday ( I just finished the pistol portion today; both awesome btw, if I ever get the time I'll do an AAR).

So I'd still like to confirm on paper at some point but if it's done right it can give aworkable practical zero. But you have to use a very small aiming point and get a bullet holes touching group for it to work. Also the height of your optic has to be factored in. I believe the 1.9" offset is for iron sights height or rough equivalent, but factoring a specific figure for optic height above bore will give the most accurate result.

[NickDrak]

I only use the 10yd method of getting a rough 50yd zero to get a new shooter or new, unsighted rifle "on paper" to save ammo during the true zeroing process at either 50 or 100yds.

[Munson]

Did a 10 yard zero with an aimpoint Pro using a qrp2 mount from prone using 1/2 inch red circle pasties hitting 1.9" low with at least 2 bullet holes touching and then shot out to 200 yards with consistent hits. I also got consistent hits on 6"(?) hanging steel plates at around 100 yards aiming in the lower portion of the plate. Did the zero on my own and tried it out in a Frank Proctor class yesterday ( I just finished the pistol portion today; both awesome btw, if I ever get the time I'll do an AAR).



So I'd still like to confirm on paper at some point but if it's done right it can give aworkable practical zero. But you have to use a very small aiming point and get a bullet holes touching group for it to work. Also the height of your optic has to be factored in. I believe the 1.9" offset is for iron sights height or rough equivalent, but factoring a specific figure for optic height above bore will give the most accurate result.

So would you happen to know the math to figure that out? I was a history major

[MET]

So would you happen to know the math to figure that out? I was a history major

http://www.physicsclassroom.com/Class/vectors/U3L2e.cfm

This link should help with the general idea of how the math works. What's shown there doesn't include drag forces but if you ran through the calculations it would probably get you in the vicinity. I'm typing this up on my phone otherwise I'd try and run through some sample calculations. Some else on here that's better at physics and aerodynamics could probably explain fully.

[Dropkick]

I was playing around with the 10 yard zero over the weekend. Sadly, I misplaced the needed targets to do this at the range, so I winged it and got things relatively working.

When I got home, I broke out the laser bore sight, correct target, and when to work. With the rear sight set to 6/3 I had to really crank the front sight post down into the front sight block, in order to get everything lined up on the 10 yard 1.9" POA/POI zero target.

I have yet to get to the range to confirm, but did I just mess my sights totally up? Did I miss some step?

[nycnoob]

So would you happen to know the math to figure that out? I was a history major

All depends which branch of mathematics you studied. MET gave some indication about how you could determine the bullet path.
But for this application I am more worried about extrapolation errors. When you fit a curve to a bunch of points then try to guess
what the curve would be outside the points, the errors can be very large. The issue is that many different types of curves will
fit the same points. It is always best to have atleast one datapoint at the extreme end of the range you wish to use. Hence
we try and confirm the zero to ensure that we have fit the scope to the correct ballistics curve.

[MVS]

I only use the 10yd method of getting a rough 50yd zero to get a new shooter or new, unsighted rifle "on paper" to save ammo during the true zeroing process at either 50 or 100yds.

That is the way I understood the whole thing from the get go as Frank explained it.

[SecondsCount]

I have tried zeroing at 10 yards once and it did not work for me but I think that is because I didn't follow everything perfectly.

Remember that besides the height over bore issue, a 1" difference in impact at 10 yards equates to a 10" difference at 100.

[M2CattleCo]

Everything is different and changing.

I consider the far intersection the zero and I confirm the first intersection. I zero ACOGs at the 300M hash and confirm the other hold marks. It's the only way to be safe that you'll hit anything.