New comer and soon to buy first revolver.

[Wheeler]

I know the usual comparison for a GP100 is an L-frame. However, fixed sight, taper barrel GP100s, straight up fit in holsters for magnum K-frames with heavy barrels. The barrel profile of the Match Champion for instance will show a gun that is only marginally larger than 4" heavy barrel K-frame and not as big as an L.

Of course I recognize that you mean durability comparisons. The K-frame not being designed to fire high volume of magnums, versus the GP100 and L-frames that were designed that way. I agree, not an apples to apples comparison. But I'd still take a GP100 to be running long after a 686 goes down.

The forcing cone on a GP series is slightly larger than that of an L frame if I recollect correctly. They cylinders of the GP series and the L frame are the same size. Depending on the holster and how closely it's formed I can fit an L frame in some of my K frame holster and have relegated one of my L frame holsters for an N frame.

I don't disagree that the GP is a more robust gun than the L frame. It took me a long time to admit that publicly.

[Hizzie]

I spent a great deal quality time with a 681PC and the GP100. IMHO they are pretty close in overall size but differ greatly in balance due to the Ruger grip stud. To me, the GP handles recoil much better.

If you spend any amount of time shooting a Ruger Alaskan the GP100 will quickly start feeling svelte.

[Lost River]

Stick with 38/357, best of everything! Stay away from Ruger CRAP! The older S&W and Colt revolvers are Top Notch. Don't get lured into snubbies, they suck for ANYTHING you're going to do with them. You can conceal 4"bbl six shot as easy as snub. Cylinder's the determining factor for revolver concealment. I've owned and shot revolvers for 40+yrs, I'm not steering you wrong here!

I'm not going to pig pile, in regards to Rugers being "crap". Many knowledgeable posters have covered that quite well. I will simply say that my experience has shown them to be extremely durable.

Snubbies are a whole other subject. They excel in their intended role. There is a longer learning curve with them, and they require some dedication to diligent practice, concentrating on fundamentals, to maximize their performance.

Last month during a qual, I asked if I could run a couple cylinder fills onto my 50 yard target. 10 for 10 landed in the torso. It can be done, it's just not optimal.

The one biggest upgrade that I can wholeheartedly recommend is a set of crimson trace laser grips. For low light shooting, they are a substantial advantage. Being able to see your wobble, as well as recognizing improper trigger manipulation, by watching the dot as you complete a DA pull is very valuable, in regards to direct feedback.

While I cannot recommend the J Frame as a primary, it's a great BUG, as well as a great "always gun". Many very dedicated guy's who carry a primary such as a Glock or 1911, normally also have a J Frame somewhere on their person.

Given the OPs price range, options a a bit limited. A 3" K frame would be a top choice. The three inch gun will give a person a full length ejector rod, and the ability to fully eject empty mag length brass, versus a 2.5", which will not. I would look for one with a fully shrouded ejector rod as well, if possible, though not absolutely necessary.

Personally I'm a fan of larger bore wheel guns for GP use, but a 3" K frame would be very practical, not to mention more comfortable to carry. Add CT grips, and a sturdy belt/holster combo and call it done.