Shot one recently and really liked it so now I'm looking at buying a good used one. Never bought a revolver so what do I need to look for? Basically, the good, bad, and the ugly of this model.
Shot one recently and really liked it so now I'm looking at buying a good used one. Never bought a revolver so what do I need to look for? Basically, the good, bad, and the ugly of this model.
Assuming it's in good condition, there's really nothing bad or ugly about the Model 66. It will balance nicely in the hand while providing enough weight up front because of the shrouded ejector.
I would check to make sure there is not excessive end shake with the cylinder, check the bore, make sure the cylinder rotates freely (use empty cases or dummy rounds if possible), and take a look at the forcing cone area. Unless the gun was abused or a whole bunch of 125gr magnum rounds were fired through it then it should be fine.
The current production Model 66 has a beefed up forcing cone and other changes.
Model specific to the magnum Ks: check the forcing cone (back of the barrel that's in front of the cylinder) and look for the crack at 6'o'clock. That's bad. You don't want that.
Other than that it's a S&W revolver. What I check:
no slop/movement in the yoke when the cylinder's closed
no (or not much) side-to-side play in the cylinder
no (or not much) front-to-back play in the cylinder*
not a whole lot of rotational play in the cylinder (always be some)
frame screws aren't buggered
timing's correct**
cylinder opens/closes without binding/hitching
cylinder gap isn't too narrow/big***
*- Less than .002". Just enough to notice it move when you push back on the cylinder.
**- slow DA pull: stop clicks into place at ~3/4 cock, hammer reaches full cock, hammer falls. If it clicks into place just before the hammer falls it's marginal. If it clicks into place after the hammer falls and you have to manually advance the cylinder it's bad. You don't want bad.
***- .004-6" if you take gauges; a sliver of daylight if you don't
I've been shooting and competing with S&W DA revolvers since before there was an IDPA (and we called USPSA IPSC, dammit) and I *still* run into gremlins that dont make any sense. I've got an open thread on the benos revolver forum demonstrating that. :-/ So take the above with the necessary grain of salt.
Also that list isn't exhaustive. Just the 30-second poke-and-prod I do when I'm looking at a revolver.
Be aware that a non-dash Model 66 has a tendency to seize up as it heats up. Mine will fire about eighteen rounds of magnum ammo before the cylinder starts to stick. It's fine with .38 ammo. Later engineering changes eliminated that tendency.
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I'm a big fan of the model 66, both 4" and 2/12". Things to look for were cover pretty well above.
Thanks for the replies. I have never shot a "full size" service revolver before. I do shoot my 442 but that is obviously a lot smaller. I had about 15 minutes to finger bang it before shooting a 50 round BLET qualification course with it. Thing was smooth as butter and I shot quite well with it. I was also able to nail the reloads with the speed loader.
Needless to say it will be the next handgun I buy.
Me too. I love the model 66s, the older ones anyway, especially the ones with the 2.5 inch barrel. I know the 3 inch model 65 has the full length ejector rod, etc., but there is just something about the 66. I prefer the Pachmayr SK-C compact grips, reminds me of the old days. These days, I find myself shooting K Frames with 38+P much more often than the magnum rounds.
Jim March's REVOLVER CHECKOUT is always a classic. Maybe dwnload the doc to your phone, and print out the one page summary at the end...
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