Originally Posted by
DocGKR
I recently wrote the following at another forum discussing professional attire while carrying handguns.
Specific recommendations are tough, as individual anatomy plays a huge role. Find a suit cut and shoe that fit, then stick with those models. A good tailor is essential. For suits, whenever possible go with made to measure (MTM)--it costs a bit more, but the suit will typically fit better and can offer improved esthetics. Avoid cheap fused suits and stick with fully canvased ones. Navy, charcoal, grey, and blue are good starting points for color; tans and browns can also be innovative--black suits are not ideal. Solid colors, along with light pinstripes/chalk strips, subtle plaids, as well as windowpanes are all useful patterns. A 3-piece suit is always a good choice, as it gives you more options--especially if you need to take your coat off; also don't be afraid of nicely executed double breasted suits--especially if you carry AIWB. An open blazer or sport coat can work better for folks who OWB carry in the 3-5 o'clock area.
For an off-the-rack (OTR) suit purchase, probably the best bang for the buck right now is Canali ; get the 13xxx model (Sienna) if you are more muscular (like a running back) and go with the 14xxx (Firenza) model if you are leaner (like a triathlete or middle distance runner). Mainline Zegna (not the fused Z-Zegna) is also a nice option. For lower cost, Samuelsohn makes some decent suits, as do a few other vendors. In general, for higher end OTC suits, items like Brioni, Canali (Sienna cut), Ralph Lauren (Purple Label), and Tom Ford (Windsor cut) work for more muscular guys, while Canali (Firenza cut) Isaia, Kiton, Ralph Lauren (Black Label) Tom Ford (O'Connor cut) and Zegna work for leaner folks. There are obviously numerous other superb manufacturers, but this brief listing is just mentioning some quality options that are commonly found in this area. If you are in London, Paris, or Naples, you will have a host of other available choices.
Eton has some good options on OTR shirts and Hamilton has some great MTM ones. For a quick reference on shirt colors, I typically wear white shirts about 50% of the time followed by blue (various solids, stripes and checks) 30% of the time, with more infrequent wear of lavender, grey, pink, tans/browns, red/maroon, ecru, yellow, and greens for the remaining 20% of occasions.
For shoes you definitely want some sort of rubber layer for traction, I use the relatively inexpensive Ecco's every day at work, since I can stand in them for 12-18 hours, they handle the muck, detritus, and blood from surgical procedures pretty well, allow rapid movement like running shoes, and don't need much break in. Mephisto is similar. For nicer shoes, you can run the gamut from the more traditional Allen Edmunds, Alden, Crocket and Jones, to the more exotic shoes like DiBianco, Gravati, Paraboot, Santoni, on up to pinnacles of footwear like Bontoni, Corthay, Edward Green, Gaziano & Girling, John Lobb, etc...
Bloomingdales and Nordstroms carry a few of these lines, while more are at Barneys, Nieman Marcus, and Saks. Specialty stores like Stanley Korshak and the Mitchell Stores (Wilkes Bashford, Marios, Mitchells, Richards) will also have an excellent selection, as do the various boutiques from each manufacturer.
As always, Southnarc is a great resource for higher end clothing purchases for armed professionals.
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