Anyone go to the trouble of correcting loose muzzle devices? I realize it’s normal, but has anyone sanded/filed the rear to correct timing, or shimmed, or whatever and seen an appreciable accuracy difference?
My SLR-107fr seems to shoot fine (Wolf 124gr) with fighter brake, but it’s loose. I don’t know how much better it could get with cheap ammo, irons, and me pulling the trigger.
Last edited by StraitR; 03-27-2019 at 09:35 AM.
See how it shoots without muzzle device before you bother with all that.Originally Posted by StraitR
*RS Regulate Affiliate*
Warbly muzzle devices bother me more than they probably should. Timing muzzle devices so they won't rattle can be a huge pain in the ass, especially when they only have one correct orientation. The Definitive Arms fighter brake I bought just so happened to be about 1/4 turn past the detent when threaded all the way down, so I had to remove a lot of material from it to get it tight. If you were to take a little too much, you're right back to square one.
If you use something like this AKML-C from Khyber Customs, there are several notches and that makes it easy to time it perfectly with no wiggle.
Attachment 36603
These work well.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PWS-High-Te...-/391338540174
*RS Regulate Affiliate*
Agreed, and a worthwhile test to establish baseline rifle accuracy. That said, the POA/POI and potential accuracy will likely change with the addition of a muzzle device, secured or wobbly. Mine didn’t disappoint with Wolf and the fighter brake, just curious if anyone spent time securing the muzzle device and saw a difference.
It probably annoys me more than anything. Haha
My Fighter 24 brake is about a 1/3 turn past the detent.
I read about using high temp O-rings. Do they make them big enough for 24mm muzzle devices?
@Hizzie I’m about to cave on the RS optic mount, just can’t decide what lower mount to get for a micro. I want to try it closer to my eye, but never shoot without a baseball hat and worry they may conflict with not enough room to move it forward. Alternatively, can I move it rearward enough on the forward mount to accomplish my goal. Maybe just get the full lower. Haha
Last edited by StraitR; 03-27-2019 at 05:30 PM.
I have not seen a 24mm appropriate high temp O ring like the PWS.
The real work weight difference between the 301/302/303 is negligible. If your worried about finding the sweet spot get the full length.
*RS Regulate Affiliate*
Thanks. I looked around, and couldn't find a 24mm high temp like PWS either. I'll just run it as is for now. If it bugs me enough, I'll file/sand to time it.
After looking a ton of pics, I went ahead and ordered the 302. I don't think it will be an issue, and I really want to see if placing it closer to the eye will help relieve some of the "looking through a dark straw" effect I get with micros. Also figured if I ever wanted to try a mini acog or similar prism, it was my best bet.
Got some Russian wood and bakelite going. I'll post a pic up soon enough. This AK thing is really growing one me. Now I want one of those Kyber cheese grater upper handguards. haha
Those do indeed work, but I didn’t like the orange color. I ended up using a crush washer to time and tighten up my brake (a PWS FSC47).
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The SLR-107FR as I received, sans the Fighter 24 brake I put on before zeroing...
Now with some changes...
Fighter 24 muzzle brake.
RS Regulate 302m and AKML with T-2.
Russian wood lower handguard and bakelite grip.
Kyber Customs Swiss cheese grater upper handguard.
I was having a "looking through a dark straw" effect with the T-2 on my AR, so I recently switched to an Eotech EXPS3-0. Moving the T-2 closer to my eye has basically solved this vision issue. Really happy with it so far, and looking forward to shooting it in the next carbine match.
CNC Warrior folding stock came in this week. Rock solid like you said. Thanks for the advice.
I ordered the NATO length, LOP is 13 5/8”, 14 1/8” with the optional rubber buttpad. My standard wood stock was 13” LOP. The CNC Warrior is 14.9 oz, the wood stock was 13.8 oz.
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