School me on K frame parts compatibility

[Lon]

So on my quest to find or create my "perfect" K frame, I've been looking at a lot of different parts. This gun will end up getting refinished (probably by Bill R.), so I haven't worried too much about sticking with the same finish parts. But in my quest, I have become slightly confused because some of the parts I've been looking at have been listed as being compatible for both the .38 and .357 K frames (parts originally for .38 K frames). I wasn't surprised about some of the parts being compatible, but I was about others.

So, my question is this: are barrels and cylinders compatible across the K frame line? Will a barrel originally for a .38 K frame fit correctly in a .357 K frame? Same thing with cylinders? Is there a place or book I can go to that spells all this out?

[Malamute]

I believe the thread diameters are the same, but the length of the barrels and cylinders is different. The 357 K cylinders are a bit loinger, and the barrel extension back through the frame shorter to match. Parts could be made to work, like a 38 barrel on a 357 cylinder, but it would take machine work on the back of the barrel.

I always wanted to do an earlier model 10 tapered barrel on a model 13 frame. Maybe cutting it to 3" or so also. It would look somewhat like the chopped 3" nickeled gun just posted in the other thread. If it had all the old patent dates on the top of the barrel, leaving it at 4" would work also.

[LSP972]

So, my question is this: are barrels and cylinders compatible across the K frame line? Will a barrel originally for a .38 K frame fit correctly in a .357 K frame? Same thing with cylinders? Is there a place or book I can go to that spells all this out?

No.

No.

No.

Not that I know of.

As Malamute alluded to, some cross-pollinating can be done; but it depends on many things, and most importantly… does the person doing the work have the proper tools, jigs, and fixtures, let alone the knowledge on what to do with them?

If not, odds are that one or two nice S&W revolvers are going to be turned into paper weights.

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[Malamute]

No.

No.

No.

Not that I know of.

As Malamute alluded to, some cross-pollinating can be done; but it depends on many things, and most importantly… does the person doing the work have the proper tools, jigs, and fixtures, let alone the knowledge on what to do with them?

If not, odds are that one or two nice S&W revolvers are going to be turned into paper weights.

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You said it better than I did. I've changed barrels several times, but a 38-357 barrel and/or cylinder swap isn't something I'd do, or likely even let the average gunsmith do unless they had experience in doing that sort of thing.

[Lon]

Thanks. I was surprised when I saw a cylinder being listed as compatible for every 38/357 K frame out there. Didn't think that was the case, I'm a neophyte when it comes to wheel guns. Figured I'd ask the experts here.

[LSP972]

Thanks. I was surprised when I saw a cylinder being listed as compatible for every 38/357 K frame out there.

Depends on the seller's definition of "compatible". Yes, it might fit in the frame window, and might fit the proper yoke barrel.

But .38 cylinders are a bit shorter than .357 examples, and some K frame windows (the open area in the frame where the cylinder goes) are shorter in the .38 caliber guns. So, a .357 cylinder would not fit in some .38 frames, and a .38 cylinder would probably fit in any .357 frame… but the barrel would need to be set back to make proper flash gap between the cylinder face and barrel forcing cone. And that is a very complex machining operation, if the chosen barrel even has enough "meat" to accomodate this. Some don't.

The bottom line here is this; S&W made so many different variations and so many engineering changes in their various K frame revolvers, that each one is its own unique little snowflake, and must be evaluated individually for any sort of barrel swap. Add in the different complexities between pinned and un-pinned barrels, and… well, you're talking quite a bit of precision work that your average 700/742/870/Glock "gunsmith" hasn't a clue about.

And the number of competent people who know these things (and are equipped to do them) is shrinking fast. If you can find all of the parts, such competent mechanics can do what you want; but done right, it will be expensive.

VERY expensive.

You will hear (or read on forums) of guys boasting about they did this or that swap, it was a drop-in, no drama, etc. Some of these tales are even true. But for the most part, swapping a barrel and/or cylinder is a very big deal, with many little things that need to be done in addition to the actual swap.

Not trying to rain on your parade, but there it is. Bottom line, it depends on what you want done and who you have do it.

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[Lon]

Not trying to rain on your parade, but there it is. Bottom line, it depends on what you want done and who you have do it.

No worries. I was bidding on a 19-6 frame on GB it didn't have the cylinder or barrel, but had all the other internals. So I was looking for a cylinder and barrel and came across a cylinder that was advertised as compatible for all of those. Anyway, the auction got too steep for me so I bailed.

I've got an old school Deputy buddy who was an armorer for his agency that can do everything but change barrels out. Does some really good trigger work. Now I just need to find someone local who can cut down a barrel and dovetail in a front night sight.

Thanks for the info. Wish I was more talented with revolver work.

[Alpha Sierra]

Is there a place or book I can go to that spells all this out?

I would start here: http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/314...rry-kuhnhausen

[LSP972]

FWIW... and not taking anything away from Jerry Kuhnhausen... I have un-gooned more than few gooned-up S&W revolvers that were victims of their owners and that book.

Just sayin'...

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[rsa-otc]

FWIW... and not taking anything away from Jerry Kuhnhausen... I have un-gooned more than few gooned-up S&W revolvers that were victims of their owners and that book.

Just sayin'...

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Some people don't belong anywhere near tools, let alone a dremal tool.