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Thread: I love 3" Smith Revolvers

  1. #371
    Member That Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03RN View Post
    Full length ejector rod is probably the most practical reason why 3" barrels are better than 2.5"
    I ran into this blog post on the topic of ejector rod lengths that I thought was rather interesting:

    https://revolverguy.com/ejector-rod-length/

    The author measured the actual ejector throw of a number of different revolvers. The relationship between ejector throw and barrel length wasn't entirely linear. A bunch of measurements were from other than Smith & Wesson's but there are several of those also listed.

    (The barrel of my Ruger Speed Six is 2 3/4", so I'm not sure if it is relevant when discussing 2 1/2" vs. 3" barrels. And it is, of course, a Ruger. But I have never had any issues ejecting hot loaded magnum brass from dirty chambers with that gun. The ejector throw is what I would call "full length" in that gun.)

  2. #372
    The Nostomaniac 03RN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by That Guy View Post
    I ran into this blog post on the topic of ejector rod lengths that I thought was rather interesting:

    https://revolverguy.com/ejector-rod-length/

    The author measured the actual ejector throw of a number of different revolvers. The relationship between ejector throw and barrel length wasn't entirely linear. A bunch of measurements were from other than Smith & Wesson's but there are several of those also listed.

    (The barrel of my Ruger Speed Six is 2 3/4", so I'm not sure if it is relevant when discussing 2 1/2" vs. 3" barrels. And it is, of course, a Ruger. But I have never had any issues ejecting hot loaded magnum brass from dirty chambers with that gun. The ejector throw is what I would call "full length" in that gun.)
    Yeah, i was referring to k frames and the difference between the 2.5 & 3" guns which include the 2.75" k frames.

    I agree its not always linear across different brands.

    I was shooting a couple days ago and found my new grips would cause a shell to get stuck about 50% of the time when extracting. The harder i slapped the more it got stuck. I shorter extractor might actually have helped.

  3. #373
    Member TGS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03RN View Post
    Yeah, i was referring to k frames and the difference between the 2.5 & 3" guns which include the 2.75" k frames.
    [Sarcasm]The thread title is obviously too vague to ascertain that, here. [/Sarcasm]
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  4. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by MolonLabe416 View Post
    Model 3” S&W Model 640 no dash.
    I have always wanted one of those. I picked up a spare 3" barrel and ejector rod to build one eventually.

  5. #375
    The Nostomaniac 03RN's Avatar
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  6. #376
    Site Supporter HeavyDuty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by revolvergeek View Post
    I have always wanted one of those. I picked up a spare 3" barrel and ejector rod to build one eventually.
    Oooooh... I could see doing the same. Are the barrels and ejector rods commonly out there?
    Ken

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  7. #377
    Hillbilly Elitist Malamute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HeavyDuty View Post
    Oooooh... I could see doing the same. Are the barrels and ejector rods commonly out there?
    Parts arent particularly hard to find if one looks around a bit. Besides the usual suspects in parts sellers, ebay and gunbroker often have barrels and parts for sale. I bought a 3" J blued barrel with extractor rod and center pin for $50 shipped. Others were around when i was looking, it just takes time to look.


    The article linked above mentioned shells under the extractor star. Ive never had it happen so long as the rod was given a brisk slap. One can clear empties from a partially expended cylinder by pushing the rod up just enough to catch the rim and pull them free and recharge without pushing it far enough to cause problems. Ive done it many times hunting with pistols. Im in the longer the extractor rod the better camp. Even with clean chambers a split case/carbon, blood, sweat, or whatever could conceivably slow down the extraction action.

    Grips that interfere with loading or unloading can be filed or ground to clear with a dremel sanding drum. Im not bashful about doing whatever needs to be done to a gun to make it as functional and useful as possible.
    Last edited by Malamute; 10-09-2020 at 09:26 AM.
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  8. #378
    Site Supporter Lon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HeavyDuty View Post
    Oooooh... I could see doing the same. Are the barrels and ejector rods commonly out there?
    I’ve had good luck on eBay and gunbroker.
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  9. #379
    The Nostomaniac 03RN's Avatar
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  10. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by HeavyDuty View Post
    Oooooh... I could see doing the same. Are the barrels and ejector rods commonly out there?
    It has been my experience that barrels are somewhat more common than ejector rods. I have bought barrels from Midwayusa, Brownells, ebay and various forums.

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