Just got my first revolver, a 2” 64-4. What’s old is new again for me. I won’t pretend, I’m a wheel gun rookie but I have a goal. I want to be proficient and spec it out for AIWB carry. I’m all about function and speed over looks. What are considered the standard for grips on a fighting K frame? What about bobbing the hammer, any tips? Holsters, point me in the right direction for AIWB.
Also, any good books or videos that are a must for the serious defensive revolver shooter?
Grips are completely personal, so many for the K frames I don't even know where to begin.
Bobbing the hammer is something I recommend, I also like making the gun DAO but not everyone agrees with that
One of the simple things to keep in mind, be sure the area under the extractor star is clean. The recess in the cylinder, and the underside of the star. Toothbrush is perfect.
I've found that ejecting empties with the muzzle straight up, and a sharp slap on the rod with the right hand, seems to keep crud from accumulating under the star.
If you're serious about carrying a revolver, you're going to want to look at options for carrying a reload PDQ.
3/15/2016
This book I unhesitatingly recommend as a great starting point:
http://www.amazon.com/Digest-Book-Re.../dp/1440218129
Best, Jon
What Chuck Haggard said about the grips is the truth. People who have been shooting/carrying revolvers a while start to know the different types available out there but if you are starting out it might seem like too many options to deal with. Start thinking about the size of the grip -- do you want a boot grip that is easy to conceal but may not allow all of your fingers to wrap solidly around it or a larger grip that is easier to shoot with but more difficult to conceal? Then there is the material -- sometimes wood is better for concealment than rubber because it doesn't "grab" clothing and print as bad. But rubber can be more comfortable to shoot, especially on a snubby. Smooth grip surface or checkered? How much do you care about appearance vs. pure function?
Some brands to research:
Ahrends
Hogue
Eagle
Altamont
VZ
Pachmayr
Uncle Mike's (no longer made but really nice rubber grips you can still find on eBay and other places sometimes)
S&W original factory wood stocks (also getting harder to find, and getting pricey)
Spegel
Nill ($$$)
Kieth Brown ($$$$)
... probably some others
The grip options are endless for sure. I'm leaning towards the more compact rubber style. Not real keen on the smooth wood stocks. Are factory DAO hammers still out there? I'm sure one will have to be "fitted."Originally Posted by Chuck Haggard
I haven't done tons of them, but I've had pretty good luck swapping Smith triggers and hammers, so long as they have already been fitted to another gun (not a brand new/never been fitted one). I've had one trigger that didn't want to swap, which was a shame, it had beautiful color case hardening, and I was selling the gun.
As to reloads, I've used both the HKS and Safariland speedloaders. Both can go bad, they should be checked regularly for function. They should be considered expendable and tossed at the first sign of trouble. The HKS have worn on the points under the rims, locking up the loader when I tried to release the rounds, and have had them lose the ball that locks the knob in position. The Safariland comp 1 in 44 has started leaking rounds when worn in a split six type belt carrier, and I've had a couple in 44 and j frame that wouldn't release the rounds when I tried, even with a tremendous amount of force. The worked later when I tried them. Weird.
I grew up on revolvers, but I'm an auto guy now. For the time being, shoot your revolver as is. Lots of guys won lots of gunfights with stock K-frame 38's, and you won't be significantly behind the curve with a stock gun.
As for stocks, there is no standard for the K-frame. Too many different things work for too many different people, from Herret's Bill Jordan stocks (which are HUGE) to my preference of the smaller Magna stocks with either a Tyler T-Grip or a Pachmayr grip adapter.
You can bob the hammer easily with a Dremel, but K-frame parts are going to get hard to find at some point and you don't want to alter your revolver if you decide to sell it later. If you decide to bob the hammer, let me know--I have a bobbed stainless K-frame hammer and I could send it your way.
Is your gun round-butt or square-butt?
Okie John
Stocks are purely personal. I hate sticky rubber stocks, they just stick to clothing and don't allow you to reposition your grip, if you don't get the grip you want after reloading. If I need extra grip, grip tape, not rubber. But to each their own. In my opinion straight up magnas + tyler t-grip is still usually the ultimate in concealment and functionality. After that the grips that basically mimic that style VZ 320s or Spegel/Ahrends boot grips for instance are my next choice. But basically the revolver stock situation is whatever fits your hands best. If you've got monster hands, closed backstraps will be better, if you're small/medium sized, you might want an open backstrap. A 64 isn't going to be unpleasant to shoot with anything except super hot Buffalo Bore 158-grain LSWCHP +P rounds, those might hurt a bit. Not enough to warrant going with rubber over wood and giving up the extra concealment wood gives you, in my opinion.
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