This one?Originally Posted by theJanitor
http://www.surefire.com/illumination...2-lumamax.html
or this one?
Ultra? Swap head?
Remember I know nothingk..........
This one?
http://www.surefire.com/illumination...2-lumamax.html
or this one?
Ultra? Swap head?
Remember I know nothingk..........
Klarus XT2C here. I like the interface: one button handles the strobe, one does the steady on.
In my opinion, the best thing to do is to spend fifty or sixty bucks on a halfway decent light, then go get low light training.
It will probably influence your lighting choices, and you haven't already driven two hundred dollars in one direction, so you can be flexible about making changes.
If you go super fancy out of the gate, the temptation to justify the initial selection rather than change things up to maximize your skillset can be pretty strong.
And don't take this the wrong way, but your concerns about lighting targets up with a WML leads me to suspect that you'd really benefit from a bit of low light training.
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This is a thread where I built a boat I designed and which I very occasionally update with accounts of using it, which is really fun as long as I'm not driving over logs and blowing up the outboard.
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....ilding-a-skiff
I agree with the above. My choices in lights changed significantly after training.
the head from this: http://www.surefire.com/illumination...der-ultra.html fits on the LX2, to create an LX2 Ultra, with progressive tailcap. The tailcaps are not interchangeable.
Recent posts from several people, foremost Mr. Givens, have convinced me that illumination is less important than I had been led to believe for non-LE applications. I keep a wml on my home defense guns but my primary tool is the light switch. For edc I use a keychain light. I have many of them in lots of places. I do not expect to need a light in a pistol fight.
Ignore Alien Orders
I really like my FourSevens QT2L
This is bad because the E2D is a dual mode light and the switching electronics are in the head. This means that if you momentary-on with the LX2 switch, and then turn it off and do it again, you're suddenly in the E2D head's low-mode in addition to the LX2 tailcap's low mode. (and pushing further will just give you the 5 lumens of the E2D low mode, not 500 lumens. bad.)
In that case I would recommend a custom single-mode head (like the VME head with a Malkoff M91B) if you already have an old LX2.
If you don't have an LX2, just buy the EB2 Backup instead.
I use a flashlight a lot for boring everyday stuff,, and prefer a 2xAA using rechargeable Sanyo Eneloops. I've got a couple of FourSevens Quarks that seem very solid, but my favorite "cheap" flashlight to date is the neutral-tint Shiningbeam Spark. The medium setting seems fine for most everyday uses.
http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/t...Neutral/Detail
So - I thought about this a bit more and thought I would share a few more thoughts -
A few things about flashlights - Batteries. If you don't own anything that takes CR123s now - I'd try to avoid buying a light that takes them. You can get tons of AA-powered lights today that are in a word, impressive, in their capabilities - LEDs are wonderful things. If you want a daily carry light that can be pressed into service while using a weapon something like the Streamlight ProTac 1AA - http://www.streamlight.com/en-us/pro...t.html?pid=199 Is probably ideal.
In my opinion - Low and High modes are what you want on a utility flashlight, strobe is fairly useless for people who aren't LEOs, although it's occasionally useful for strobing your drunk friends with (I can be a real jerk when someone is belligerently drunk).
For a tactical flashlight, I guess it depends on how you envision using it. Personally, I think of flashlights strictly as target identification/engagement tools - NOT - search tools. That means, I want good white light that throws the distance I would reasonably engage in (think 25 yards or less), I live in an urban environment with plenty of overhead/street lighting. It's almost never dark where I live. So, I set my maximum lumen threshold at about 150 and actually find that's probably too bright, given most places have walls painted white. In what little low light training I have had, neck index seems to work best for sighting along the gun and in those cases, I find two-cell flashlights with some kind of retention (rubber O-ring for instance), with momentary on press - full on click switches work the best. The Streamlight TL series or even older Surefire 6P with click tail caps are ideal to me.
I personally eschew the 5-6-1000 lumen lights. I'm not sure what the justification for 1200 lumens in a tactical flashlight is - Personally, I find if I fire off a 1000 lumen eye-searer I mainly just succeed in blinding myself. I have a buddy that's a big lumen guy and I just never quite got it. About 200 is the max I see being useful in most urban settings. That said, if you live someplace dark, by all means, get the 1200 lumen eye-burner.
Anyways this boils down to my recommendations - Two flashlights - one utility grade with a high/low setting low between 15-30 lumens and high about 70. These are pretty useful inside buildings in day-to-day settings. A separate flashlight for tactical usage - One mode output between 100-200 lumens, click-on tailcap with momentary and then on.
-Rob
I agree...CR123A lithium primaries are great for power and long shelf life, but for lights I use frequently, I really prefer AA lights with Eneloop NiMH rechargeable batteries. I hate throwing away primaries with half their life left...but I also hate carrying a light with only half a battery left...or is it 20% left, who can know? With a rechargeable battery, whenever I've used a light more than just a bit, I swap it out for a freshly charged battery and top off the used batteries when I get around to it. And I keep some Energizer L91s around just in case.
When it comes to functionality, I find I want two things from flashlights that tend to conflict with each other. If I'm going to be pairing it with a handgun, I want a light that comes on high right away, with momentary on capabilities and no alternative modes accessed through the tailcap (unless it's a two stage press like the LX2, I could probably get used to that). For general purpose usage, I often don't need as much light, I'd prefer to start in a low mode, and multiple brightness levels are really useful, especially when your eyes are adjusted to the dark or you're working in very close quarters.
In practice, that means I always have a FourSevens QT2L-X and a L3 Illumination L10 (Nichia 219) in my pocket. The Quark uses two CR123A batteries and is an excellent balance of power and compact size...I like the brightness and broader beam of the XM-L emitter along with the sensible two-mode interface and forward clicky switch on the Tactical models. Mine is programmed for full brightness with the head tightened (which is how I carry it) and medium brightness with the head loosened. The L10 is a cheap little gem of an everyday light, barely larger than the AA that powers it, with four well-spaced modes going from very low to respectably bright. With the Nichia 219 it has a nice tint and broad beam good for close-up work. I use the L10 all the time, but always have the Quark on me for special occasions. For dedicated nightstand use I have a Surefire G2ZX in addition to a WML. Scattered elsewhere around the house are other 1xAA and 2xAA lights, mostly Quarks.
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