New CZ P-07 = Mind Blown

[TicTacticalTimmy]

2. Looking at getting the factory 21 rounders (19 w +2 plastic ext), will these work reliably in my P07? Are they 'hard use'? at least harder use than the +2 Glock factory extensions that fall off when bumped. Was looking at them +5 aluminum extensions but buying the 21s, I could recoup by selling off my standard capacity magazines, but i'd only do that if the hi caps were reliable.

I used a P07 for a bit in CO and a 3 gun match (before upgrading to a P09 for competition), using P09 mags with Springer Precision extensions (hold 22-23rds). I also generally use P09 mags indiscriminately when practicing with the P07. They are definitely reliable and I havent caused any harm from agressively seating the longer mag. It seems to me the only part that could be harmed is the ejector which is like $9?

A combination of boredom and curiosity after reading the P320 bent ejector thread led me to do some further experimentation on over-insertion. Here is what I did and found. Note that these were done with a 140mm mag (p-09 with springer precision baseplates) which holds 22 rounds:

1. First i removed the slide and slammed an empty 140mm mag into my p-07. I found that during a normal insertion with i-need-you-to-get-back-to-going-bang-now force, the magazine does not ever contact the ejector. However, by slamming it REALLY hard I could get the magazine to overshoot the mag catch slightly and push up on the ejector. this could be remedied by pulling down on the magazine a bit so it seated in the mag catch, at which point the ejector would spring back into its normal position. I did this a handful of times, very aggressively, and didn't notice any type of wear on the mag or ejector.

2. Next I replaced the slide, and did the same thing with the slide closed, with the 140mm mag loaded to 21rds (fully loaded to 22 there is some resistance when racking the p-07 when the mag is seated with normal pressure). I could not induce anything unusual seating the mags aggressively from a normal reload position. Then I adjusted my hand position to gain maximal leverage (not a natural reloading position, gun very low on body and magwell over 90 degrees to left), and really slammed a loaded mag in as hard as I could. I found that when doing this, it was possible to actually slam the mag so hard it pushed up on the ejector, which in turn pushed the slide slightly out of battery. Unlike in the no-slide experiment, this time the recoil spring pushed the slide forward, returning the ejector to its normal position instantly. The gun could now be loaded and fired normally.

3. Next, I did the same with the slide open, using the 140mm mag fully loaded to 22rds. Using maximal force I was able to get the fully loaded mag to push up on the ejector. This did not prevent the slide from releasing normally and chambering around using the slide release.

4. After doing the above, i field stripped and examined for any unusual wear. I didn't find any, and the gun loads, ejects, etc. normally. Unsurprisingly there are some not-insignificant marks on the casings from being slammed into the ejector.

In conclusion, I think the CZ P series is pretty much immune to parts breakage or stoppages from over-insertion of magazines. I really appreciate the inexpensive and easily replaced small parts used in this pistol. They make it easy to work on and also fun to experiment on because you don't need to worry about making an expensive mistake, as you would on certain other popular handguns. Pretty much the only part besides the serialized frame that would be a bitch to replace if damaged, would be the steel frame inserts. And I'm not sure how you would damage those.

[pooty]

This gun fits into an RCS Perun TLR-1 pretty good... it doesn't lock in, but when inverted the gun won't fall out unless shaken.

[Clusterfrack]

I did a full detail strip of one of my P-07s today. It has high mileage AIWB, and a lot of sweat got in it. I could see corrosion at the sear pin, so I figured it was time to take a look in there. What I found: not much. Small amounts of surface corrosion could be found pretty much throughout the gun, even on the mag catch plunger pin. But it was all easily removed with MPro-7

[David S.]

I have about 500 *flawless* rounds through a P-09 with CGW kit and their 11.5# hammer spring.

Update. I now have a couple thousand rounds of Fenix 147g with the 11.5#. It's a very nice trigger pull, but I've now had three light strikes and one stovepipe. All three light strikes discharged on the second or third trigger pull. I'll be going back to the 13# spring.

[Clusterfrack]

Update. I now have a couple thousand rounds of Fenix 147g with the 11.5#. It's a very nice trigger pull, but I've now had three light strikes and one stovepipe. All three light strikes discharged on the second or third trigger pull. I'll be going back to the 13# spring.

Agree. For defensive use, 13# seems to be the bare minimum, and 15# is a safe choice. In my ProGrade guns:
-13# will fire every pistol primer I've tried, and will fire CCI #41 military rifle primers on the 1st or 2nd strike.
-15# will fire everything, including CCI #41's on the 1st strike.

That's good info about the stovepipe--hammer spring rate also affects slide velocity. Ejection is 9'+ with 13# hammer and 15# recoil springs in one of my guns. I'm going to swap in the 18# recoil spring, more similar to the 20# OEM RSA. Link to CGW's page on this.

[TheNewbie]

Anyone have a good thumb break OWB holster for the P-07?

[cheby]

Agree. For defensive use, 13# seems to be the bare minimum, and 15# is a safe choice. In my ProGrade guns:
-13# will fire every pistol primer I've tried, and will fire CCI #41 military rifle primers on the 1st or 2nd strike.
-15# will fire everything, including CCI #41's on the 1st strike.

That's good info about the stovepipe--hammer spring rate also affects slide velocity. Ejection is 9'+ with 13# hammer and 15# recoil springs in one of my guns. I'm going to swap in the 18# recoil spring, more similar to the 20# OEM RSA. Link to CGW's page on this.

My experience is with P01. I also found that a 15# main spring is the minimum I'd use even with the extended FP.

[David S.]

Anyone have a good thumb break OWB holster for the P-07?

Willing to do custom or are you limiting to a factory holster?

[TheNewbie]

Willing to do custom or are you limiting to a factory holster?

I’m open for either.

I mainly want it for if I have to do plain clothes work, which is almost never, or if I need some extra retention for whatever reason.

My duty holster is an ALS, so the thumb break will be similar enough for the intended purpose. Maybe I should put my flame suit on for the following. Last time I hiked I used a nylon holster, Eagle something, to carry my P-07. It worked surprisingly well. Even when I had to deploy my gun upon encountering a mountain lion in the almost pitch dark.

[Clusterfrack]

... when I had to deploy my gun upon encountering a mountain lion in the almost pitch dark.

Please post details on the Cougar Thread!

Let’s talk about cougars, mountain lions, catamounts, and pumas.