Is this the OEM hammer or CGW?Originally Posted by mizer67
Is this the OEM hammer or CGW?
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
OEM.
Plan on going the CGW route eventually, but stock minus a few springs for now.
Ok. I have one P-07 with the OEM hammer, and can confirm a small amount of friction on the left side. A drop of oil smooths it to the point I can’t feel it, especially when pulling at a realistic speed.
I’m leaving the frame alone because the tight fit helps keep dust and crap from getting in there.
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
I’ve had some reloads with high primers, due to a batch of Win SPP that were short. So, I wasn’t surprised to have some light strikes in my Shadow2s with 11# hammer springs.
I was surprised to have two light strikes (fired 2nd strike) with my carry P-07 and a brand new 13# spring. So, I swapped in a 15# mainspring. DA pull is 6.75#, very acceptable and will likely go down as the spring breaks in.
I tested function with 5.56 military rifle primers, and it was 100%. In all likelihood, this is overkill given the soft Federal primers in my carry ammo.
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
As I continued to shoot and dryfire my newly acquired P07, as nice as the single action was, it still had some creep.
Being a bit of a trigger snob by this point, I decided to use the CGW hammer in my gun to sort that issue out, as it was causing me to anticipate shots. I do have to say, while it's the most expensive portion of CGW's full upgrade kit, it made a big difference in the crispness of the single action. Zero creep now that I can detect. I think it's on par with the single action in my CZC Shadow, if not a touch lighter. Or to put it another way, it's one of the best single action triggers I've fired short of a well tuned 1911.
I'm waiting on a Primary Machine barrel. Next week, testing out my new additions should be fun.
https://cz-usa.com/cz-rebate/
I don't know if you guys have seen this, but there's now a $50 rebate for the P-07, 09, and P10 until the end of the year. With that it looks like you could get a P-07 from some of the online venders for a little over $400. Best deal in a couple years; P10s and P01s are also super cheap compared to what they have been.
I saw the P01 Omega the other day for $590, haven't seen one under 700 in a year+ and that was hard to resist.
State Government Attorney | Beretta, Glock, CZ & S&W Fan
My slide came back from milling for a Holosun EPS (RMSc footprint) at Stonebridge Gunworks. I haven't had the chance to sight it in. The work looks excellent as I've come to expect from SBGW. Customer service has been excellent as well.
In comparison with the 509t2, the EPS sits about 1/4" lower. Note that both have low irons set for POI middle of window.
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
My apologies for the long format article...
So, funny thing - a few pages ago (or a few months; back in Feb) I posted I had picked up a lightly used P07 - and replaced some of the guts with CGW internals (namely roller bearing, hammer and sear springs, and most of the top end internals/springs) - and ran into an intermittent issue with the trigger not resetting on DA dry fire practice. I wound up putting the gun away, until recently - I realized it was one of the few DA/SA guns that fit me well, so I figured I'd dig it out and give it another try. As much as I like my LTT...the 07 with a large backstrap just indexes like it was made for me. It's only competition for me is an HK P30, and truthfully I think I could flip a coin and be happy with either...but the 07 has issues that I'm not sure I caused. I wanna make it work.
One of the things I went back to check was the roller bearing. As it turned out, I may have mis-measured the factory roller bearing; per CGW, they say order the same size or smaller...well, I wound up ordering larger; my bearing measures .222-.223, and the bearing I ordered was .225. That might account for the occasional failure to reset...so I put the factory bearing back in. I might order a .220...we'll see. While I was there, I replaced the trigger return spring with a CGW unit. I have an old fashioned spring-driven trigger pull scale and it was off of that, so no idea what the DA pull weight was with the 15lb hammer spring...guessing around 8-9lb? I really should order one of the digital units...anyway.
Buttoning it all back up - CGW parts are the sear spring, sear pin (factory sear pin was a victim of me grabbing 600 grit vs 2000 grit when polishing it, and took it down too much), hammer spring, trigger return spring, firing pin/retaining pin/spring, firing pin block spring - all other parts are factory CZ - I found in testing...decocking would actually let the hammer go all the way down, like contacting the firing pin all the way down. Normally CZs decock to "half cock" or the little shelf before it's all the way down...mine isn't. Every now and again it'd catch on the half cock ledge but pushing the hammer back in and it'd slip and contact the firing pin. If I manually pulled the hammer back to half cock, it was in solid - it would only do this, when decocking via the levers. It was as if the sear wasn't coming all of the way down to catch the half cock ledge...or, the hammer has an issue maybe? Anyway.
I think the previous owner made some changes...all my bubba smithing was to parts exclusive of the hammer and sear mating surfaces. I tried replacing the sear spring with the factory unit, hell I put the entire bottom end back the way it came when I bought it - still drops all the way down when decocking. I'm GUESSING the previous owner may have messed with the hammer a bit. I honestly cannot recall if this was a problem before all of this, but it very well may have been an issue since day one and I just never noticed it. Since it's doing it with all the factory bits in the lower...I'm confident it wasn't any of my messing around with things that caused it.
So, remediation - ordered a new factory hammer and disconnector, and may order a new trigger bar too. Let's see if I can make it function like the way it should have been from the factory first, before I start getting that annoyed with it...maybe this thing was janky from the start, and maybe I'm cleaning up the misdeeds of the previous owner. It would certainly explain some things..
Would an 18 lb recoil spring be the best all around recoil spring weight for the P-07 shooting FMJ 124gr or 147gr range ammo and for 124gr +P and 147gr standard pressure FMJ HP ammo ?
Also does anyone make a 14lb hammer spring for the P-07 ?
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