New CZ P-07 = Mind Blown

[Thy.Will.Be.Done]

Were these ever confirmed to be discontinued?

[Clusterfrack]

Were these ever confirmed to be discontinued?

Not that I’m aware of.

[gprean]

That is the EPS. It doesn’t overhang much, and neither does the 509. I dont recommend putting a EPS carry on a P-07.

Here’s a pic from before I put lower BUIS on.

Out of curiosity, why would you not recommend an EPS Carry on a P-07?

Your low-witness looks great, btw.

[Evil_Ed]

Can anyone get a photo of the inside of the frame where the trigger bar runs to the rear of the frame on the inside?

Short version - mine won't reset during dryfire practice sometimes. Mostly DA pulls but I don't see why it couldn't happen with SA, either...I just don't usually dry-fire practice in SA in this gun.

With all factory parts/springs, or Cajun parts/springs or any mix thereof...it seems as if the trigger bar won't pop back up, like it's caught on something.

I've replaced:
Trigger bar spring (no bending or tweaking on the new one)
Trigger bar, CZ factory
Hammer and disconnector, CZ factory (for another issue; decocking would drop it all the way down sometimes; appears previous owner may have messed with it - new hammer/disco allows it to drop to the half cock notch reliably now)
I've tried CGW .220, factory/.223, and .225 CGW rollers
Sear pin with a CGW unit, and have a new factory sear pin just in case as well
Sear spring (tried with factory, CGW heavy/natural, and CGW light/blue)
Hammer spring (tried factory, CGW yellow, CGW gold, CGW blue...ironically the yellow feels the best)

The only internal parts I have not replaced/tested with replacements are the decocker levers on either right or left side, decocker spring, sear, and the firing pin safety lifter arm.

I was able to catch it when the slide was off when this occured, and the trigger bar was stuck down...pressing the hammer to the left would allow it to reset, the trigger bar would pop up. The trigger bar was not in contact with any of the parts above it (so right side decocker lever, lifter arm, etc)...it just wouldn't pop up like you'd expect.

So I'm wondering at this point if there's some kind of frame defect; like a piece of flashing, or one of the features on the inside was mismolded, or something...but I don't have a gun to compare it to. I'm considering just hitting the inside with a 2000 grit piece of sandpaper, but if I don't know what it should look like...I'm concerned about making it worse.

Edited to add - one thing I did notice, the trigger arm likes to move laterally as well as vertically...it was snug against the frame when it wouldn't pop back up. I wish I had a 3rd hand to get some photos of it...sigh.

Honestly if I can't figure this out I might just sell it and buy another at this point...I'm thinking this was why the original owner sold his in the first place. I'm just willing to mess with it more before moving it on

[Clusterfrack]

Out of curiosity, why would you not recommend an EPS Carry on a P-07?

Your low-witness looks great, btw.

The P-07 is already not ultra compact. Why sacrifice window size for a marginal difference in concealability?

I’d put the EPS carry on a 365.

[Clusterfrack]

Can anyone get a photo of the inside of the frame where the trigger bar runs to the rear of the frame on the inside?

Short version - mine won't reset during dryfire practice sometimes. Mostly DA pulls but I don't see why it couldn't happen with SA, either...I just don't usually dry-fire practice in SA in this gun.

With all factory parts/springs, or Cajun parts/springs or any mix thereof...it seems as if the trigger bar won't pop back up, like it's caught on something.

I've replaced:
Trigger bar spring (no bending or tweaking on the new one)
Trigger bar, CZ factory
Hammer and disconnector, CZ factory (for another issue; decocking would drop it all the way down sometimes; appears previous owner may have messed with it - new hammer/disco allows it to drop to the half cock notch reliably now)
I've tried CGW .220, factory/.223, and .225 CGW rollers
Sear pin with a CGW unit, and have a new factory sear pin just in case as well
Sear spring (tried with factory, CGW heavy/natural, and CGW light/blue)
Hammer spring (tried factory, CGW yellow, CGW gold, CGW blue...ironically the yellow feels the best)

The only internal parts I have not replaced/tested with replacements are the decocker levers on either right or left side, decocker spring, sear, and the firing pin safety lifter arm.

I was able to catch it when the slide was off when this occured, and the trigger bar was stuck down...pressing the hammer to the left would allow it to reset, the trigger bar would pop up. The trigger bar was not in contact with any of the parts above it (so right side decocker lever, lifter arm, etc)...it just wouldn't pop up like you'd expect.

So I'm wondering at this point if there's some kind of frame defect; like a piece of flashing, or one of the features on the inside was mismolded, or something...but I don't have a gun to compare it to. I'm considering just hitting the inside with a 2000 grit piece of sandpaper, but if I don't know what it should look like...I'm concerned about making it worse.

Edited to add - one thing I did notice, the trigger arm likes to move laterally as well as vertically...it was snug against the frame when it wouldn't pop back up. I wish I had a 3rd hand to get some photos of it...sigh.

Honestly if I can't figure this out I might just sell it and buy another at this point...I'm thinking this was why the original owner sold his in the first place. I'm just willing to mess with it more before moving it on

Ugh. That sounds like a hassle. Does this image help?



Here’s one of how the trigger bar should interface with the disco.


Have you tried swapping in the thumb safety levers to rule out the decocker?

I’d like to see some pics as well.

[claymore504]

Sounds lile something is slightly out of spec. If it has this issue in all stock configuration, I would contact CZ and let them take care of it.

[1More]

Can anyone get a photo of the inside of the frame where the trigger bar runs to the rear of the frame on the inside?

Short version - mine won't reset during dryfire practice sometimes. Mostly DA pulls but I don't see why it couldn't happen with SA, either...I just don't usually dry-fire practice in SA in this gun.

With all factory parts/springs, or Cajun parts/springs or any mix thereof...it seems as if the trigger bar won't pop back up, like it's caught on something.

I've replaced:
Trigger bar spring (no bending or tweaking on the new one)
Trigger bar, CZ factory
Hammer and disconnector, CZ factory (for another issue; decocking would drop it all the way down sometimes; appears previous owner may have messed with it - new hammer/disco allows it to drop to the half cock notch reliably now)
I've tried CGW .220, factory/.223, and .225 CGW rollers
Sear pin with a CGW unit, and have a new factory sear pin just in case as well
Sear spring (tried with factory, CGW heavy/natural, and CGW light/blue)
Hammer spring (tried factory, CGW yellow, CGW gold, CGW blue...ironically the yellow feels the best)

The only internal parts I have not replaced/tested with replacements are the decocker levers on either right or left side, decocker spring, sear, and the firing pin safety lifter arm.

I was able to catch it when the slide was off when this occured, and the trigger bar was stuck down...pressing the hammer to the left would allow it to reset, the trigger bar would pop up. The trigger bar was not in contact with any of the parts above it (so right side decocker lever, lifter arm, etc)...it just wouldn't pop up like you'd expect.

So I'm wondering at this point if there's some kind of frame defect; like a piece of flashing, or one of the features on the inside was mismolded, or something...but I don't have a gun to compare it to. I'm considering just hitting the inside with a 2000 grit piece of sandpaper, but if I don't know what it should look like...I'm concerned about making it worse.

Edited to add - one thing I did notice, the trigger arm likes to move laterally as well as vertically...it was snug against the frame when it wouldn't pop back up. I wish I had a 3rd hand to get some photos of it...sigh.

Honestly if I can't figure this out I might just sell it and buy another at this point...I'm thinking this was why the original owner sold his in the first place. I'm just willing to mess with it more before moving it on

If you have not already done so, ensure your trigger bar spring is fully seated in the hole it goes into. I had a similar issue years ago with my P07 Duty after replacing the trigger bar spring. It turned out, when I reinserted the trigger bar spring on reassembly, I inserted it to where it seemed firmly seated. However, although it seemed firmly seated and would reassemble without issue, the dead trigger/ failure to reset would return. Eventually I caught on to the proper depth it should be inserted to and ensured that it was properly and fully seated. All issues went away after that.

[foxj66]

Were these ever confirmed to be discontinued?

If you are referring to the P-07 the black version is still an active sku for 2023.

[Evil_Ed]

Ugh. That sounds like a hassle. Does this image help?



Here’s one of how the trigger bar should interface with the disco.


Have you tried swapping in the thumb safety levers to rule out the decocker?

I’d like to see some pics as well.

Thanks - no I haven't tried the thumb safety swap...I'd never use it, so while it might be interesting from a debugging perspective...it won't be that helpful for me, though I could easily order another decocker lever set and try that

I spent a little bit messing around with it some more and I think, maybe I might have a good idea as to the why and how...so, it only happens on the DA pull, and it only happens with the slide on. I thought I had replicated it with the slide off, but I didn't; it was hung up on something else (my nitrile glove, actually).

I found if I slide the slide on and just stick the slide stop half-way through so it's not fully seated and test...the same thing happens. If I seat the slide all the way on and test until I get a dead trigger, if I move the slide a bit in any direction, like literally tap it against a table - there's a click and the trigger re-connects. Dead trigger - grab slide and barely push it back and click-reset.

I think there's some tolerance stacking somewhere with the slide and frame. I've also noticed that even with this brand-spanking new hammer and this %100 unaltered sear, fresh from the factory bag, it will still randomly and occasionally not fall to half cock but go all the way down to the firing pin when decocking with a brief stutter at the half cock shelf on the hammer. I don't think the lifter is activated when doing this so the firing pin safety should still in theory be intact, but it's still kind of wtf. After 10 tries and it doing that 5 times in a row, now it's going to half cock securely so I don't know if it was an excess lube issue that just worked itself out, or if there's some other weird issue going on. At this point it's factory parts in the lower half (either new parts I replaced, or original ones that came with the gun) - the only aftermarket parts are CGW sear and hammer springs. Maybe I should try the CGW heavy sear spring...anyway.

I think at this point, I can either contact CZ and take advantage of their 5 year warranty, or flip it with disclosure and buy another new one...or, both..