https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=66147.0
Here's the guide by David of CGW on how to polish/tune your P07/P09.
Most of it is really simple and hard to screw up. The trigger bar and the trigger bar return spring I think are the only areas you could screw up if you are overzealous, so if you are new to polishing internal parts like this maybe do those parts last, or alternatively polish/bend them only minimally during your first go-around.
Full detail strip and 6500 round parts replacement on the carry P-07. Slide stop was virtually pristine but I swapped a new one just in case. 13# mainspring was 1.5 coils short. With a new one, the DA pull is 7.25lbs. There was a tiny amount of surface corrosion on the firing pin and sear pin that wiped away. The heavy dust that coated the gun when I was elk hunting did not penetrate the action. The gun was remarkably clean. Surprising, given the conditions this gun has experienced.
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
Just be careful with the bending the trigger bar spring step. If you bend it too much it will cause major issues. Not bending it at all is an option as well. I usually check the groove in the trigger bar that the spring rides in and clean that up and polish. I also clean up the end of the trigger bar spring if there are any sharp burs. Not sure if it helps, but can't hurt. As for the trigger, sear pin and hammer pin, I don't polish and just let them break in. I have gone through 3 P07s and 4 P09s. I now have one P07 and two P09s with triggers the way I want them. I built the pro grade kit part by part basiclly. Just get the entire kit from th start is what I can say. The Hammer made a huge difference in my guns. I did not need to use the CGW DA roller in my guns as well. Sometimes they are just not needed if the stock roller is good to go.Originally Posted by TicTacticalTimmy
Last edited by claymore504; 09-19-2022 at 07:23 AM.
I do not bend any springs. I think it is a bad idea that does not make much difference.
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
Followup to my last post. It's fairly easy to test how much difference each part or procedure makes in the P-07. The contribution of the tension of TB spring can be tested when the lower is stripped. I found that bending it did not produce a significant difference. Similarly, I decided the reduced power FP block spring is not worth installing because I can barely tell the difference.
Here are two springs that have a critical role in the function and safety of the gun. Modifying or replacing them for a "princess and the pea" exercise in trigger smoothness is not something I'm interested in.
In order, here are the things that make the P-07 action better:
1. Hammer spring weight (lighter spring requires CGW firing pin and spring)
2. Lubrication
3. Break-in (I don't hand polish my guns but if I did, I would not touch the sear or hammer notches)
4. Reduced power trigger return spring
5. CGW Prograde kit
Last edited by Clusterfrack; 09-19-2022 at 10:59 AM.
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
Unlike @Clusterfrack I was resolved to try hand polishing some areas of my P07 while I was in there changing out springs, so I broke out the rotary tool, felt bits and Flitz.
I looked at the CZ forum thread and started with the guidance there. The only places I hit with 2000 grit sandpaper and did some wet sanding was the top of the trigger bar and FPB.
I polished:
- Sear
- Hammer
- FPB lifter
- FPB
- Roller bearing
- Trigger bar
- All the pins
I used a stone to flatten the trigger bar slightly as indicated in the CZ thread and I cleaned up the residual glue on the decocker.
I replaced these springs:
- Sear spring
- Hammer/mainspring
- Trigger return spring
- Firing pin spring
- FPB spring
After, the single action is very nice and light. It's about as good as my CZC Custom SA 75 and seems to be a similar pull weight around 3.5 lbs. I say "about" because my Shadow doesn't have a FPB and you can feel it if you're really looking for it on the P07. The double action isn't great. It's lighter and smoother, but still not perfect. I think replacing the roller bearing with the CGW part might help.
Overall, for about ~$40 not counting the felt bits and polish, it's a really nice setup now. More like what I had in my head about what the trigger should feel like when I bought the P07. The weird hitch in the trigger is gone. I think it was either the FPB spring twisting/bending oddly or some interface issue with the FPB lifter and FPB.
Has anyone sanded the frame to reduce the hammer rubbing on the left side of the frame during the double action pull on the P07?
Polishing the hammer might help a little. I'm thinking of trying to relieve my frame slightly. I think (left sided) hammer rub is why my DA is still not the greatest, but single action is good.
I haven't. I would test by moving the hammer with mainspring removed. I'm guessing any friction from the frame is minimal. I've pushed the hammer against the frame and even then, there's little friction. I'd be interested in hearing what's up with your particular gun after you investigate.
Last edited by Clusterfrack; 09-23-2022 at 12:42 PM.
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
I’ve had trigger rubbing against the frame with an aftermarket trigger in the S2.
Mine only rubs when the hammer cams (slightly) left during the DA trigger pull. There's definitely some hammer sliding-on-frame friction. The hammer will sit square in the frame at rest and w/o any tension.
I think I'm just going to start slow. Once I can get a sheet of paper in between the hammer and frame I'll work some 1200 grit sandpaper in there and see if that makes any difference. I figure the downsides are limited as long as I don't go nuts.
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