I bought a P-07 based on your writing on the subject. It's an outstanding pistol. Mine was smooth out of the box. I consider you an expert on CZ pistols. One reason is that you have verified your opinions with extensive research.Originally Posted by Clusterfrack
Glad to help @willie, and glad you like the P-07.
I contacted Night Fision and explained the problem. Apparently they did not do anything…
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
Oh, for sure - I'm thinking specifically of things like maybe some better surface prep of the trigger bar (removing all the burrs, making sure it's actually flat, etc), little things like that...things that I'm sure would eat some time and cost some money, but would pay dividends on the back end.
One thing I'm not sure about on the CGW kit - my abiding memory of it was that it moved the break point of the DA pull back a bit, and maybe the SA break back a bit as well? Am I mis-remembering that? With XL hands, that's the last thing I want
If I ever had claim to fame as a handgun shooter(really didn't), shooting revolvers double action was it. I developed ability to detect small differences in pull smoothness among revolvers in a group and could immediately recognize errors in others' action work. I had excellent teachers and obsessive interest and curiosity. This skill translated to using a pistol's double action feature and contributed to adapting to striker fired pistols.
I soon discovered that many guys who displayed greater shooting skill lacked my theoretical knowledge and ability to critique double action traits. Some didn't care either. I discovered that a double action pull could be too light to ensure function and that smooth trumped light. Making a Smith revolver smooth is easy. Pistol double action mechanisms often don't lend themselves to much improvement. Having a bucket of parts helps immensely and so does Flitz polish applied manually.
The highly complex and over engineered CZ Series 75 pistols have two traits that drive some nuts: over sprung and rough internally. Specimens vary. One of mine has lighter after market springs and performs nicely. However, I fret that one day it might not and find myself using unmodified versions. I have learned to live with CZ idiosyncrasies and can report that my guns (broke in??)to the extent that I'm comfortable with their actions. I learned not to obsess that the double action pulls are less than stellar. I use a rapid straight through technique and don't look back.
Yeah, it does. Not by a lot, but that's correct.One thing I'm not sure about on the CGW kit - my abiding memory of it was that it moved the break point of the DA pull back a bit, and maybe the SA break back a bit as well? Am I mis-remembering that? With XL hands, that's the last thing I want
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
Got to handle a P07 last night. Felt good, didn’t blow my mind, but I guess I need to shoot it? I even consider purchasing it, as I haven’t made a purchase in quite a while. It had a threaded barrel though, so that was a dealbreaker.
My 92G Compact really hits the sweet spot for me in a DA/SA carry pistol, TBH.
Forgive the question if it's already been answered, but is there a single-sided decocker available for a P07? If so, does anyone have a picture of what it looks like? This seems to indicate that a left-sided only version is made...
@ER_STL
As far as I know there is not. The part you see on CZ Customs site is just one side of the OEM decocker. You need the other side for it to operate.
I don't think there is enough of a market to justify investment into solving the engineering problem of a right side decocker delete. Since the right side lever is integral to the actual decocking mechanism, it cannot be simply removed.
Maybe something similar to the Beretta PX4 stealth levers. Since the left side decocker reaches all the way across the frame, and engages the decocker spring, redesigning that would be a much more substantial investment.
In the world of 3D printing, just about anything is possible. If the cost of metal printing keeps coming down, the market for a relatively niche product becomes more practical.
TLR7a or X300 on a P07?
I got my 07 to the range today and out of the 3 P07s, 2 P01s (one omega, one decocker) and 2 97s (one B which my dad decided he needed to have and the BD I bought to replace it)...this was the only CZ I've owned where the only thing it really needed was the hour or so I spent smoothing the trigger bar and bits, the hammer strut, and basically broadly following schmeky's post on the CZ forum for improving the Omega trigger pull. It really doesn't need any spring changes; the DA pull is acceptable as it is now, and the SA pull is fine.
Of course, since I had a bunch of springs show up from CGW today anyway...I swapped them in, but honestly there's not a huge improvement with them. Maybe the DA pull is a little lighter with the 15lb hammer, and maybe the firing pin safety block doesn't seem to add too much stacking to the pull anymore, but that's about it.
As I was shooting it, I remembered one of the problems I was having was having the slide stop engage prematurely due to my hands; I also think I wasn't using the large back strap when that would occur. I ran through 200 rounds of 150gr Syntech (which is wildly soft compared to 124gr or 147gr Lawman or other good practice ammo) with no issues at all. Put 15 124+P and 15 147gr HST through it as well towards the end of things. While I never once managed to make contact with the slide stop lever this time, I did give myself a blister in a new place...
That is from the right side decocker abrading the top of my right hand/trigger finger. It's always something with these things...this I think I can live with though.
Reply With Quote
