New CZ P-07 = Mind Blown

[guymontag]

I felt the need to chime in since the P01 was mentioned.

I’ve spent a bit of money and time trying to make the 07 work, (and I may have posted in this thread before) but the P01 and the PCR are the “easy button” for me in the CZ compacts. The triggers are smoother, the hits are better, the grip is better, etc. Same for the SP01 vs the 09, maybe the added weight plays a role but I can time the gun better and see better with the metal frames. I suspect it’s more of how my grip interacts with the frame. YMMV.

[TicTacticalTimmy]

To me the P01 Omega and P07 are extremely similar. They are almost the exact same size (P01 marginally smaller), same capacity, same weight (P01 about .5oz lighter), same barrel length, etc.

My performance with both is very similar with plenty of overlap. I shoot MY P-07 a bit better but I think that is just because I like the sights better (Night Fission sights on the P07 vs Dawson Tritiums on the P01), and also because my P-09 is my primary handgun.

I think they are so close that it really just comes down to personal preference: do you prefer an aluminum frame with replaceable grip panels or a plastic frame with the option of grip tape or stippling?

Personally I really enjoy the feel of metal frames, and I like my P01 more for that reason. I carry the P07 much more often but that is mainly because of the aforementioned better sights, becasue I like the holster better (JMCK AIWB 2.0 for P01 and JMCK AIWB 2.5 for P07), and finally because I have more faith my index and everything else will be on point because the P07 is so similar to the P09 which I shoot more often.

I will say I had a problem with decocking the P01 in recoil, because the decocker sticks out too much (actually more than the Omega safety), and I sometimes play with condition 1 handguns so I have a tendency to 'ride the decocker' like a safety. I pretty well solved the issue by grinding down the decocker a bit with a dremel. By comparison the P07 decocker is nice and flat.

[guymontag]

I think they are so close that it really just comes down to personal preference: do you prefer an aluminum frame with replaceable grip panels or a plastic frame with the option of grip tape or stippling?

I’d agree fully, and with my technique, anatomy and skill level, changing the side panels is FAR better than changing backstraps - I can customize the “quarter panel” technique that TPC and I think Eric Grauffel speak of, but it’s more expensive experimenting with different grips than with OEM backstraps though!

[Clusterfrack]

FYI, there are persistent reports of problems with the P-01 Omega decocker drifting out during firing.

https://www.google.com/search?q=cz+p...decocker+issue

[spyderco monkey]

Noticed while dry firing the other night my firing pin "stuck" forward. I was dry firing with a little piece of foam ear plug in between the hammer and on my last rep I went to take it out and just happened to notice the firing pin by chance. Instead of taking it apart, my first thought, I racked the slide and back to normal. I couldn't get it to do that again. CGW (best customer service of any company in the world) got me squared away with a new firing pin (extended firing pin and spring), reduced plunger spring, and their firing pin retaining pin. They figured my retaining pin was damaged. I have taken it apart before and maybe screwed up installing it again. The factory pin looks like sheet metal rolled over itself and the CGW pin is more of a sold piece. Installed the new parts today and it seems go to go although I haven't been to the range yet. Here are some photos if this helps anybody with a similar problem. The retaining pin looks damaged to me, but haven't taken the one out of my other gun to compare.

Attachment 23383

Attachment 23384

I went to the range today to zero my new 508 on my P09.

Chambered round - Click! No primer indentation. Try again - Click! And again- Click!

The nightmare scenario. A perfectly fine looking and well maintained gun, which function checks fine and looks perfect when field stripped, has somehow been deactivated.

Turns out, my firing pin retaining pin had an identical failure to yours, shattered in the middle. Totally disabled the firearm.



I'm frankly shocked this is a design feature / has not been changed.

Does anyone know if the CGW 'spring steel' pin solves this issue? Or is this something I always have to be worried about?

[Clusterfrack]

I firing pin retaining pin had an identical failure to yours, shattered in the middle.

Does anyone know if the CGW 'spring steel' pin solves this issue?

Yes. Issue solved. However, that assumes you don’t dryfire hundreds or thousands of times without protecting the pin.

EDIT: you can inspect the FP roll pin for damage by sliding a punch through the hole.

And… make sure to install the FP roll pin with gap at 12:00. Straight up.

[spyderco monkey]

Yes. Issue solved. However, that assumes you don’t dryfire hundreds or thousands of times without protecting the pin.

EDIT: you can inspect the FP roll pin for damage by sliding a punch through the hole.

And… make sure to install the FP roll pin with gap at 12:00. Straight up.

Thank you. So this part is broken by dry firing? I figured any modern pistol these days was safe to dryfire.

What is involved in protecting the pin? Snap caps, or?

Good info on both the CGW pin and best way to install. Overall though I'm rather shaken by this; it seems insane they'd have this little pin be able to kill the whole gun without warning, know this part wears out frequently, and keep that design. Using google images after this happened, I turned up a bunch of pics showing essentially an identical part failure across multiple CZ models.

[revchuck38]

Thank you. So this part is broken by dry firing? I figured any modern pistol these days was safe to dryfire.

What is involved in protecting the pin? Snap caps, or?

Good info on both the CGW pin and best way to install. Overall though I'm rather shaken by this; it seems insane they'd have this little pin be able to kill the whole gun without warning, know this part wears out frequently, and keep that design. Using google images after this happened, I turned up a bunch of pics showing essentially an identical part failure across multiple CZ models.

FWIW, the -75Bs have the same issue. Both of mine have the CGW pin installed now.

[guymontag]

Thank you. So this part is broken by dry firing? I figured any modern pistol these days was safe to dryfire.

What is involved in protecting the pin? Snap caps, or?

Good info on both the CGW pin and best way to install. Overall though I'm rather shaken by this; it seems insane they'd have this little pin be able to kill the whole gun without warning, know this part wears out frequently, and keep that design. Using google images after this happened, I turned up a bunch of pics showing essentially an identical part failure across multiple CZ models.

It’s a common issue and it’s not the best design - BUT it can be mitigated with the correct size o-ring placed between the hammer and slide. I’ve pulled the trigger thousands of times (over many years) against multiple FPB models of CZ and I’ve not deadlined a gun.

Theoretically it could still get damaged with live fire, in that case if you’re expending multiple cases of ammo on a single gun then replace every year with a detailed clean.

[Clusterfrack]

Yes, most CZ TDAs are not designed to be dry fired heavily. You can solve the issue by protecting the FP roll pin with half an earplug or a very thick O-ring.

People have damaged other guns by heavy dryfire, so this isn't a unique concern. E.g. Glocks with cracked breech faces.

Live fire shouldn't damage the FP roll pin because the FP does not slam into it during ignition of a primer. P-07/09s can handle very high round counts with no issues.

Get a few CGW roll pins and you should be good to go for life.

Thank you. So this part is broken by dry firing? I figured any modern pistol these days was safe to dryfire.

What is involved in protecting the pin? Snap caps, or?

Good info on both the CGW pin and best way to install. Overall though I'm rather shaken by this; it seems insane they'd have this little pin be able to kill the whole gun without warning, know this part wears out frequently, and keep that design. Using google images after this happened, I turned up a bunch of pics showing essentially an identical part failure across multiple CZ models.

It’s a common issue and it’s not the best design - BUT it can be mitigated with the correct size o-ring placed between the hammer and slide. I’ve pulled the trigger thousands of times (over many years) against multiple FPB models of CZ and I’ve not deadlined a gun.

Theoretically it could still get damaged with live fire...