School me on the S&W M&P 340/340PD and possible carry loads.

[Mike C]

Thanks, I'll check them out now.

[Up1911Fan]

I have a DSG with the soft loop and it is a high quality minimalist holster.

[Chuck Whitlock]

Do you have any holster suggestions for AIWB? I am looking at Darkstar gears webpage right now at the small clip holster, it looks promising. I like the idea that it is completely reversible, ride height also looks good.

If you don't need the tuckable option, CCC's Versaclip and Uno are nice and worth far more than the pittance charged:

http://shop.customcarryconcepts.com/IWB-Holsters_c3.htm

I just received a few versaclips, one of which was for a Ruger SP101. I am very pleased with it. I can only imagine how much better it would be with a lightweight weapon.

[Mike C]

PM sent to you Sotex. I have a question about the clip.

[Rappahannock]

I have a 340PD (shown here with its great-grandfather) and have been very pleased with it - that is, after I stopped fiddling with 357 ammunition in it. +P is enough for this little revolver and it is very comfortable indeed to carry in a "Simply Rugged" pocket holster.
What I don't understand is why the lock is such a big deal. Just snatch it out and replace it with "The Plug," which is cosmetically good enough and eliminates all those narsty lock parts. It was the first thing I did with this revolver not long after this photo was taken and hasn't been an issue since.
As to ammunition, it is partial to +P Nyclad Federal rounds. A speed strip full of them and a Benchmade knife completes my summertime EDC.

[Mike C]

My issue with the lock was more finding someone I could trust to remove it than anything else. I don't trust myself since my experience with wheel guns is so limited. Competent smiths are very, very hard to find around here. By the way Rappahannock that is an awesome photo. Thanks for sharing.

[DBR]

I like the Buffalo Bore hard cast wadcutter in the gun backed up by the Speer 135gr short barrel HP on speed strips. The BB hard cast goes about 850fps from a 2" barrel, penetrates deep and tracks straight allowing it to do damage on the far side.

[LSP972]

My issue with the lock was more finding someone I could trust to remove it than anything else.

If you plan to use The Plug, then all you need to know is how to get the hammer out of a J frame; not rocket science, but you do need to exercise care. Anyway, once the hammer is out, you can remove the "flag" and use a punch to knock out the rest of the mechanism. If you plan to simply disable the lock and keep the existing parts, that takes a bit more finesse.

Either way, its not something one should attempt after watching a YouTube video. You can get the hammer out without removing anything but the side plate, without difficulty... but if the rebound slide or the hand, etc., becomes dislodged (which isn't uncommon), now you've got to get all those pieces/parts back into sync.

As with most armorer tasks on modern handguns, all of this is not overly complicated... but if you aren't familiar with it, it can be daunting.

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