340 PD

[SAWBONES]

The weight of that no-lock, steel-cylinder M&P 340 is 13.3 oz. unloaded, which about splits the difference between the 340PD and the Airweights.

The primary attraction for me of the scandium alloy frame, titanium alloy cylinder 340PD is its very light weight of 11.4 oz. unloaded, as compared to the 442/642, which are 15 oz. unloaded.

I know it doesn't sound like much, but the in-pocket difference seems obvious to me.

Wish I could get a no-lock 11.4 oz. J-frame, but unless S&W decides to make one, I'll just be content with my no-lock 642s and #*@!-lock 340PDs for pocket carry.

[LSP972]

I know it doesn't sound like much, but the in-pocket difference seems obvious to me.

It makes a BIG difference. Most folks poo-poo that statement... until they try it for themselves.

BTW, you are aware that the great majority of documented lock self-engagements have occurred with the Ti-Scan (titanium cylinder, scandium frame) guns? J frames and N frames? IOW, if your 340PD's lock has not been disabled, and you carry it... might want to think about sorting that out.

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[idahojess]

Here is a pic...
It's a lot lighter in the pocket than my 642. Wish I would have worn a glove when shooting it the other day...

[Stephen]

It blows my mind that they persist with a feature that is so unpopular with their customers. I wonder if Smith would continue with the locks if the D/A revolver market was half as crowded/competitive as the plastic pistol market.

[LSP972]

There, as they say, is the proof. Interesting, indeed… especially the box.

My 360PD came in a externally-padded hard case with a white outer box, the product label affixed to one end (I'd post a photo, but I "may not post attachments"). Ditto my 242 and 342, both of which are pre-lock. In fact, every AirLite I've seen (perhaps a dozen or so) came so packaged.

That appears to be a period-vintage cardboard box. One wonders if this piece has sat in some warehouse/back shelf for the past 12 years. If it were mine, I'd cough up the fifty bucks for a Jinks letter. That's gonna be the only way to know for sure what this revolver's pedigree is.

In any event, great score, guy. Treasure that puppy.

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[idahojess]

In any event, great score, guy. Treasure that puppy.

Thanks! Will do!

[SAWBONES]

It blows my mind that they persist with a feature that is so unpopular with their customers. I wonder if Smith would continue with the locks if the D/A revolver market was half as crowded/competitive as the plastic pistol market.

Given that the current owner company has been Saf-T-Hammer since 2K or so, I'm sure that some non-shooting company bozo executive felt it would be just a wonderful marketing decision to incorporate one of their "gun lock product ideas" into their new "gun product line".

Talk about corporate stupidity and thoroughgoing lack of understanding of their customer base.

[idahojess]

oops disregard this post here

[SAWBONES]

BTW, you are aware that the great majority of documented lock self-engagements have occurred with the Ti-Scan (titanium cylinder, scandium frame) guns? J frames and N frames? IOW, if your 340PD's lock has not been disabled, and you carry it... might want to think about sorting that out.

No problem there, I took out the little locking levers from both guns, but the lock holes are still just as ugly.

[LSP972]

No problem there, I took out the little locking levers from both guns, but the lock holes are still just as ugly.

Did you simply remove the "flag"? That's the flat piece with the nub that locks the hammer. This is the obvious quick-fix, but one fraught with peril. That's what I did… and after five or so years and a couple of thousand rounds, the remaining cylindrical mechanism got jarred loose and 'fell into' the gun, locking up the hammer tighter than Dick's hatband.

Fortunately, this occurred on the range.

When you remove that "flag", you're leaving about 1.5mm of space between the side of the hammer and what's left of the mechanism.

Best bet is to remove the flag, grind off the nub, and replace the flag. She'll run happily ever after. Or buy The Plug and knock out the entire mechanism. That's what I did after deciding I didn't care for that gaping hole in the frame, after removing the remainder of the mechanism.

Sorry if you already knew all of this; but I have run across numerous post-lock J frames whose owners did what I did initially… and were an unknown number of rounds away from potential disaster.

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