When practicing dry reloads, who uses dummy rounds in the mag to smooth things out, and keep the feed lips from snagging on the mag well? I used to regularly but lately I have just been using empty mags. Seems like it's a good indicator if I was dead on with the mag going into the gun (smooth insertion) or if I was sloppy ( snagged feed lips). Any recommendations either way?
Nobody is impressed by what you can't do. -THJ
Not to derail the thread, but BOM I like your signature. My biggest complaint with gun forums is the reception most newcomers receive when they ask a simple question.
On topic - the Wall Drill (Wall Drill), using a spent casing, or coin (Balancing Act) and the Original Poster's drill all seem like good dry fire practice. I know I do the Wall Drill several times a day.
When I have a little more space (about 10 yards) I insert one of those laser bore sighters with adjustable end pieces that fits in any barrel up to .50 caliber. It offers some visual feed back, kind of a poor man's SIRT, also you'll make damn sure to check the gun when you're purposefully obstructing the barrel.
Does anyone else have a way of dry fire practice they particularly find helpful or enjoyable?
Originally Posted by Thrill
Dry-fire will not hurt the vast majority of modern weapons, including .22's. Some guns have some specific issues to look out for, but by and large, it is not an issue. If you have a Sig, you might want to use a snap cap.
Do not dry fire a .22.
Centerfire pistols you can dry fire w/o fear. Use a snap cap if you care to.
I've been dry-firing rifles, shotguns, and pistols since 1989 and have never broken or damaged anything.
Thanks for info!
So I can dry-fire S&W 38, Glock 17 & Kel-Tec P11 with no issues,
but not the Tarus 22 revolver,...
I use snap caps to practice reloads and I still have problems with my 229 mags getting snagged during insertion.
I find it is more my technique than anything. If the back(primer side) of my mag doesn't make contact flat against my magwell then the groove gets caught on the outside of my magwell and makes for an annoying fumble.
I don't have this problem with my Para, most likely because it doesn't have the same cut in the top of the mags.
I use a target paster on my wall as an aiming point during dry-fire. What do you guys use?
Check out Steve Anderson's book, "Refinement and Repetition." It's competition-focused, but it's a great resource for anyone wanting to use dryfire practice to get faster with their draw, reloads, and transitions.
In addition to "Refinement and Repetition", there is also Steve's book "Principles of Performance", Sam Conway's book "The Shooters Approach to Practice", and Saul Kirsch's books "Thinking Practical Shooting" and "Perfect Practice".
Competition oriented? Yes. Will they help you in other ways? Yes.
Also consider DVDs by Jerry Barnhart, Saul Kirch, and Matt Burkett, especially Matt's Vol 7 "How to Practice" DVD.
Don't forget those dry-fire on the move drills.
[QUOTE=sff70;1332]Do not dry fire a .22. QUOTE]
That is simply not true.
I don't own a Taurus, so I won't address that one, but any .22 from a reputable company is fine to dryfire. Ask S&W, Ruger, S&W, Ruger. OK, so my idea of a good .22 is limited, but the old advice not to dryfire them is simply incorrect. As it happens, I do not dryfire my .22's since I see no need, but if you want to, they'll be just fine. I know there are other companies that say it is ok to dryfire their .22's as well, but I can't remember them off the top of my head.
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