Originally Posted by
John Hearne
I've seen different approaches to polishing. The first decent action job I received was a work of art. The gunsmith had polished not just every moving part but the portions of the frame the moving parts touched. I have seen noticeable improvement by simply looking at what is wearing. Simply polish the shiny parts more. If you don't have a lot of rounds through the gun, then simply polishing that which moves against something else does good too. IIRC, I've seen some nasty hammer struts. You really only need to worry about the top of the strut, where it interfaces with the hammer. If your patient and take your time and ONLY POLISH, you'll get good results.
All of this primarily reduces what you feel in DA mode. It seems that the best way to "crisp up" the SA trigger is to true the hammer to the sear. Some guys do this by eye, others do it by mechanical fixture. The need for this to be done precisely is big so I leave it to people who get paid to do it.
I guess it's just the design but I notice that the Sig trigger "feel" decreases with round count between cleanings. I am a bit on the compulsive side and tend to just detail strip the frame when I clean the gun. I don't normally take out the magazine catch system but will remove everything that rides on the sear pin and hammer pin. I can clean and lube them up very quickly and I find it takes the same amount of time it would to clean carefully if you leave the frame together.
ETA: I have one of the replacement firing pin locks that Gray Guns sold. IIRC, when I installed it it took 1/2 pound out of the trigger. After a bunch of dry fire and I assume polishing in place, I notice that the stacking is greatly reduced. They are not currently available but should be later this year.