This is a technique I had not seen yet. Has anybody been taught something similar?
This is a technique I had not seen yet. Has anybody been taught something similar?
Stovepipe? Case might cut your hand? HTFU!
Stupid polymer guns. My CQB's feed empty cases like buttered BB's on glass, so I can't practice that.
I don't see his technique working on a double feed malfunction. Rip, rack, rack, rack, re-insert, rack again and hopefully it goes bang. I've never been a fan of locking the slide back first, which is why it's great to run gun/mag combos where it's easy to grab the baseplate and RIP the mag outta there. I believe it's a needless extra step.
I like KISS. RIP! Rack, rack, rack, reinsert rack and shoot if necessary. No need to stop to assess what kind of stoppage it might be. Get the gun back into action. (Better to have a backup piece though.)
In the past, I've played with dropping the mag in the infamous double feed scenario, operating WHO/SHO, by banging the gun hand wrist hard into my upwardly rising knee. It works, but I can't take much of that kind of practice. It hurts.
I know, HTFU.
Now I'll let the experts weigh in.
In a sort of ghastly simplicity we remove the organ and demand the function. We make men without chests and expect of them virtue and enterprise. We laugh at honour and are shocked to find traitors in our midst. We castrate and bid the geldings be fruitful.” ― C.S. Lewis, The Abolition of Man
I wonder how that would work with an actual double feed? My experience is that a real world double feed is harder to clear than one set up in training. Often it is cased by a stuck case, weak extractor or other SNAFU.
I always lock the slide back because it works on every gun with every magazine, no need to modify anything. In addition, many LE/mil can't modify their weapons.
My thought as well. If there's really a case STUCK in the chamber, the technique shown could simply drive a live round hard into the casehead of the trapped/chambered brass.
Real stuck cases and loose cases in the chamber are not the same.
Ummm, yeah, appears dangerously similar to other artificial range ideas I have seen pop up in the past.
I will stick with rip the mag, work the slide, reload the gun.
For the old TRB drill I change it to Tap>Roll/Rack (this helps dump the trash out of the gun by using the orientation of the ejection port and gravity to work for you)>Bang/Assess/Whatever...
BTW, I can't do this drill as shown unless I find damaged brass because my G17 (and even my old 5903s) feed empty cases too well.
If the slide is completely forward and I get a click (empty chamber or dud round) I'll do a traditional tap-rack-bang.Originally Posted by TTS
If the slide is fouled up somehow and anything but in battery I'll lock it back then rip the mag out and clear the port/chamber before reloading (with a fresh mag if available).
There have been any number of guns I've messed with that require the slide to be locked back before it's possible to remove the mag. If a live round is wedged just right between the feed lips, ramp and slide removing the slide tension from the stoppage is mandatory to allow mag removal.
It seems that if one were to force the issue when things are wedged just right you could bend the mag lips rendering the mag useless.
Matt Jaque's video method seems to be tap-rack-click, rip the mag out, leave the offending case/round in the gun, re-insert the same mag, finally work the slide with the gun angled the wrong way to have even gravity help you and the gun will always miracle the bad case/round out leaving you a functioning gun.
No thanks.
The safe bet for all handguns (and even semi-auto rifles) is to lock the slide to the rear first.
However, none of the guns I work with currently require that, and almost all of the guns I have tried Rip>Rack>Reload on I have found it to be effective, so I went to the faster technique knowing that I am practicing something that might not work on some 1911s or on a Makarov and such. Everything is a trade-off
Agreed. I went to "just do a reload" as my default for all malfunctions long ago and it has served me well over the years.I will stick with rip the mag, work the slide, reload the gun.
"PLAN FOR YOUR TRAINING TO BE A REFLECTION OF REAL LIFE INSTEAD OF HOPING THAT REAL LIFE WILL BE A REFLECTION OF YOUR TRAINING!"
I should have specified, I always lock the slide back if Tap, Rack doesn't work.
Funny how in range theory, theory and reality are the same.
I'm firmly in the Tap, Rack Bang/assess/whatever you want to call it camp if I have a malfunction. I'm not trying to diagnose why it occurred when I'm trying to get back in the fight. If it's dark, I won't be able see anyway. If TRB does't fix the problem, it's because of a double feed or mechanical issue (gun or mag). Then I'm a Rip, Work, Tap, Rack, Bang guy.
Using SIGs and Glocks, I've never seen the need to lock the slide to the rear before stripping the mag, or the need to roll the slide. Do these things hurt? No, I don't think so. I've just never found them necessary in SIGs or Glocks. Even with P220s with old mags, where the 1st round in the mag will move forward, TRB/RWTRB worked fine.
Chuck is right, locking the slide is a good idea if you use multiple platforms and want to ensure a technique works with anything you pick up.
Ken
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