Lubricants

[LittleLebowski]

I use Slipstream, which is a nanoparticle lubricant combined with synthetic low temp gun oil. I also use ZeroFriction which is a synthetic gun oil that replaces water molecules. I have tried the PTFE types and don't care for them as they don't have a very low coefficient of friction, but they do seem to do an excellent job of protecting the metal from high loads. In pistols the loads are not that severe where I apply the oil, so not an issue. I prefer the less friction.
Cody

I've used Slipstream.

[BLR]

Different metals will have a different "pore" structure. There are also metals that are intentionally made with visible pores in them, although I don't know of any guns that use that kind of metal. When you look at the surface of a metal under a microscope it will show the surface has a lot of places where lubricants could occupy space. Here are images of carbon steel surfaces: http://dspace.jorum.ac.uk/xmlui/bits...section15.html

Aluminum, other alloys, tungsten-steel, and other metals will all have different "pore" characteristics. But they all have imperfections in the surface that lubricants could adhere to or occupy.

Some lubricants/protectants focus on displacing water molecules that might be occupying the pores. Others have additives that, after the carrier evaporates, leaves behind a residue that inhabits the crevices and pores and kinda sticks to them, like PTFE or nanoparticles.

Most of the manufacturers of these products keep their lubricant designs secret because of the threat of corporate espionage, and R&D continue in this area...people are always looking for a better lubricant and different applications.

This company had an informative web page: http://www.globalspec.com/learnmore/...netrating_oils

I use Slipstream, which is a nanoparticle lubricant combined with synthetic low temp gun oil. I also use ZeroFriction which is a synthetic gun oil that replaces water molecules. I have tried the PTFE types and don't care for them as they don't have a very low coefficient of friction, but they do seem to do an excellent job of protecting the metal from high loads. In pistols the loads are not that severe where I apply the oil, so not an issue. I prefer the less friction.
Cody

(Emphasis mine)

Nope. There can be different surface finishes. In which case, the lubricant can fill the valleys of the finish (for example sandblasted vs as machined vs ground vs lapped/polished). However, same point as before. Unless we are talking powdered metallurgy, in which case, porosity is a legitimate and real concern. Of course, lubricants can penetrate into some finishes, like phosphate/park. But these are typically quite soft and are removed along with the finish fairly early on with use. DLC is a unique little situation, where the tens of microns thick finish is somewhat porous, and due to the composition of the finish (sp3 carbon) typically "wets out" with oil. This is why some people who lubricate their DLC finished gun see the oil "creep" or "migrate" from the inside to the outside of the gun. What the "surface is modified and therefore protected/lubricated" salesman are getting this BS from is with boundary layer lubricants. Which only work when the surface finish is of the approximate thickness of the lubricating film. Which is never on a gun.

Most manufactures of these products keep their designs "secret" (from the public) because of threat of exposing marketing BS. There aren't any real secrets, and "R&D" doesn't happen with the people selling these products.

Handguns aren't a tough application, so people get away with snake oil, because even if it comes from a snake, it's still oil.

Full auto BCGs are an entirely different animal. I'm an advocate of BN coatings and dry lubes for that.

[cclaxton]

I've used Slipstream.

Well, two differences: You tested it with an AR platform, and you don't say whether you used the grease or the oil.
I used the oil and used it on a handgun.
I love the stuff, have had no issues with it, and really like the low friction it provides. And, I have been using it for about two years.
Cody

[jetfire]

I use 5W-30. It works really well for all my guns, but I do have to admit it's not great for corrosion prevention. Plus a quart of Shell costs less than 4 ounces of ToadGoo.

[LOKNLOD]

I heart this thread.

[LittleLebowski]

Well, two differences: You tested it with an AR platform, and you don't say whether you used the grease or the oil.
I used the oil and used it on a handgun.
I love the stuff, have had no issues with it, and really like the low friction it provides. And, I have been using it for about two years.
Cody

I used the oil. All you had to was ask

[BLR]

I use 5W-30. It works really well for all my guns, but I do have to admit it's not great for corrosion prevention. Plus a quart of Shell costs less than 4 ounces of ToadGoo.

ToadGuts is peppermint flavored olefin. Olefin is a crap lubricant. It's a gummy, plasticy wax.

Engine oil has organo-phosphates and sufates added to absorb combustion water which is quite acidic. Not the type of corrosion protection we want with guns. You'd be better off with non-detergent oil. Like air compressor or lathe/machine oil from Grainger.com

I have a 35lb pail of Pennzoil 0000 urea complex grease I use for just about everything nowadays. Has good anti corrosion additives, excellent tack, and high burn off temperature. My range bag has a 50ml squeeze bottle of it. When the temp is 1F like today, I just carry a Colt.

[jetfire]

ToadGuts is peppermint flavored olefin. Olefin is a crap lubricant. It's a gummy, plasticy wax.

Engine oil has organo-phosphates and sufates added to absorb combustion water which is quite acidic. Not the type of corrosion protection we want with guns. You'd be better off with non-detergent oil. Like air compressor or lathe/machine oil from Grainger.com

I have a 35lb pail of Pennzoil 0000 urea complex grease I use for just about everything nowadays. Has good anti corrosion additives, excellent tack, and high burn off temperature. My range bag has a 50ml squeeze bottle of it. When the temp is 1F like today, I just carry a Colt.

Cool, thanks. I will probably switch to a lathe oil, since I have some of that sitting around as well.

[TheTrevor]

The only actual porous metal I know of, proven to absorb oil, is the cast iron used to build machine tools for the last 150+ years. (As Bill probably suspects by now I know my way around a machine shop.) One of the steps in fully restoring an awesome old piece of precision machinery like this Cincinnati No.2 Mill (sadly, not mine) is to bake it to drive the soaked-in oil out of the porous casting. A beast that size can sweat out quite a bit of oil after absorbing it over 60-80 years.

Last time I checked, my guns didn't have porous iron castings anywhere, so I'm pretty sure I don't buy the whole "soaks in" thing. Don't know why these guys can't pick a more accurate description of how their stuff displaces water, neutralizes surface acidity, and forms a persistent film on the surface of things I want to keep slippery and clean-ish. Probably doesn't market as well, so screaming irrelevancies about pores in your NiB coated BCG here we come!

[ToddG]

I realize I may be an outlier, but my experience as I've related before based on high count count, infrequent cleaning:

• Oil keeps my guns running fine.
• Grease may keep the rails looking nicer if used/replaced often but if I just want to go 2-4k rounds I end up with a paste full of debris that accelerates finish wear and compromises smooth function.

I tend to oil my guns heavily and then let the excess just flow off over the course of shooting at the range. In fact, more often than not I'm lubing the gun on the range for exactly that reason. But then the gun will easily go 2k+ rounds without getting any lubrication again. It's worked for me for a long, long time.