Glock Trigger - Aftermarket?

[Jaywalker]

After basically ignoring Glock for 30 years, I bought a G19/4 in October to see what the fuss was all about. I like a lot about it, but I really don't like the trigger. Basically, if I can improve the trigger without impacting its longevity, I'll keep it, but I have no desire to fire another round through it with the current trigger setup. Right now, it's OEM (except with an OEM 3.5 connector) with about a thousand dry-firings and 200 live rounds to smooth it. I saw no change to feel or measured trigger pull (it's about 6-1/4 pounds) from the change from the dot connector to the minus connector. The weight of pull isn't an issue - it's the "wall" I'd like to minimize. I read Todd's blog about the long-term Gen 4 test and don't want aftermarket parts in it.

Will something like Charlie Vanek's OEM kits: http://www.vanekcustom.com/8.html get me the break I want? Does "tuning" OEM parts make them less reliable somehow? This will be for concealed carry.

Since "I don't know what I don't know," please feel free to wander.

[jlw]

In full disclosure, I am affiliated with GlockTriggers.com although I was using their product before becoming formally affiliated.

Check out the Guardian trigger kit. It is all OEM parts that have been mirror polished. Ultimately, it really doesn't do anything running 10K rounds through your pistol won't do, but it is cheaper, and it is right now. I've shot a lot of pistols with the "25 cent trigger jobs" and found them lacking.

The Vogel and the Skimmer have modifications to parts. The Vogel will give you an overtravel adjustment and an option of spring weights to tune things, but that gets away from your desire for complete OEM parts. I have one in a G17 that has thousands upon thousands of rounds through it with no issues. I haven't shot the Skimmer kit.

[Chris Rhines]

I use the Vanek Classic Gen4 kit in both of my Production Glock 34s. They've been very reliable - I don't really keep a malfunction count, but it's been well under 1:2000 for both pistols. The Classic kit definitely gives more of a rolling break than the factory Glock trigger.

[GJM]

Assuming you don't have the time or inclination to do the 15,000 rounds of firing trigger job, I like the Vanek Classic and Glocktriggers.com Guardian. The Guardian is all OEM parts, so I lean towards it in a carry gun. A slightly reduced power striker spring can make either the Guardian or Vanek feels worlds better, depending upon your use for the pistol. My wife and I haven't experienced a lick of trouble in terms of reliability with the 4.5 striker spring, with a range of ammo, but we only use stock striker springs in primary carry guns out of caution.

[Jaywalker]

Both sound good. JLW, I had not heard of GlockTriggers, so thank you.

Chris, when you speak of "malfunctions," are you speaking of "parts breakage?"

GJM, I'd like to stay with the stock striker spring, I think.

[LOKNLOD]

If you're mostly interested in removing the "wall", and you already have the (-) connector, then I'd say a cheap, easy, all-OEM thing you might try is the NY1 olive trigger spring. It'll stiffen up the pull during the slack portion at the beginning of the trigger pull, making the wall a little less dramatic.

The best feeling trigger setup in a Glock I've used was a high-round-count polished OEM 3.5 with an NY1 with the spring removed. I don't fully trust it that way, but in that particular gun it was the closest I've felt to a "rolling" break in Glock trigger. I've done some experimentation with lighter coil springs for the NY1 in hopes of duplicating it while still having the spring in there, but haven't quite found the right spring (and it's been over a year since I was messing with it).

[LSP552]

I use Vanek's GSSF trigger kit with stock springs in my carry 3rd gen G17. It's the nicest trigger by far among my many Glocks.

Ken

[Chris Rhines]

Chris, when you speak of "malfunctions," are you speaking of "parts breakage?"

Jaywalker,

I actually meant "stoppage." I've never, to the best of my recollection, had a malfunction or parts breakage in either of my G34s.

[Chuck Whitlock]

I'm not nearly as knowledgeable as these other guys, but:

Will something like ............ get me the break I want? Does "tuning" OEM parts make them less reliable somehow? This will be for concealed carry.

Since "I don't know what I don't know," please feel free to wander.

I don't see where you describe exactly what it is that you DO want. Like a 1911? Like DA revolver?

[Jaywalker]

LOKNLOD, I'd considered the NY1 as a cheap way to remove the wall, but when ToddG wrote that Hackathorn (?) called it the worst trigger he'd even felt, I abandoned the approach as something that probably wouldn't work for me.

Sotex, well, I didn't really want to specify what I wanted, given my inexperience with the Glock - "improve the trigger" is as close as i can get it while still mentioning that the wall annoys me. I will be changing either the trigger or the Glock, so I'm looking for advice. So far that's working with some good input.

I don't want to overstress this, but I'll mention that my bedside pistol is a Browning HP (had it 33 years) and my carry is a Kahr K9 (had it 15 years), so I seldom change pistols. My thinking is the G19/4 might replace both of them, but while I can go easily enough between the Browning and the Kahr, the G19 has really kittened up my Kahr triggerwork. (Now, of course, I've also learned that my HP's barrel might detonate while it's lying in the drawer, and we can't have that...)