Sig 226 questions

[HCL3]

I've been carrying a P30 v4 LEM exclusively for a few years now but have an itch to try out a DA/SA gun to see how I perform with it vs. the P30.

I'm thinking about going with a P226 because of magazine & holster availability, parts availability, and because the triggers seem to be pretty good right out of the box. Any P226 I get will have an SRT and a set of Heinies added to it, but beyond that I'm really not sure what exact model to get.

So for the sig guys out there I have a few questions.

1) Should I get a new one or an older W. German gun? Is there any real difference reliability wise between the German produced guns and the US produced guns?

2) Is the extra corrosion resistant coating you get with the MK25 worth the premium you tend to pay for these guns? If you're worried about corrosion would it be better to get one of the stainless models instead?

3) What about holster availability for the railed vs. non railed guns?

4) What spare parts would you keep around?

5) What parts are most prone to breakage?

Thanks.

[GardoneVT]

I've been carrying a P30 v4 LEM exclusively for a few years now but have an itch to try out a DA/SA gun to see how I perform with it vs. the P30.

I'm thinking about going with a P226 because of magazine & holster availability, parts availability, and because the triggers seem to be pretty good right out of the box. Any P226 I get will have an SRT and a set of Heinies added to it, but beyond that I'm really not sure what exact model to get.

So for the sig guys out there I have a few questions.

1) Should I get a new one or an older W. German gun? Is there any real difference reliability wise between the German produced guns and the US produced guns?

2) Is the extra corrosion resistant coating you get with the MK25 worth the premium you tend to pay for these guns?

3) What about holster availability for the railed vs. non railed guns?

4) What spare parts would you keep around?

5) What parts are most prone to breakage?

Thanks.

I owned a CPO West German model and later on a .40 made in Exeter.Both pistols functioned and shot to typical Sig Sauer standards.I would not worry about the source factory.

[JV_]

1) Should I get a new one or an older W. German gun? Is there any real difference reliability wise between the German produced guns and the US produced guns?

I prefer the newer one piece slides, rather than the breech block design of the older guns.

http://pistol-forum.com/showthread.p...n-Surplus-p226

[GJM]

MK25 is a pain for holsters.

If you like old cars, and the way it used to be, get a classic. If you want to shoot the crap out of it, get a new 226R (pref 2012/2013 manufacture). I am over 10k with my 2012 226R without a stoppage.

[PPGMD]

2) Is the extra corrosion resistant coating you get with the MK25 worth the premium you tend to pay for these guns? If you're worried about corrosion would it be better to get one of the stainless models instead?

3) What about holster availability for the railed vs. non railed guns?

I never noticed any of my Nitron Sigs rusting so the Mk25 coatings seem to be unneeded unless you are planning to swim with the gun. OTOH it will play to question 3, Mk25 and the other Pic railed guns require different holsters from the normal Sigs unless you put a light on it. OTOH non-rail guns will typically fit in railed holsters, but not the other way around. Note the new 229-1 (with full length serrations) will have issues fitting in holster P229 holsters.

4) What spare parts would you keep around?

5) What parts are most prone to breakage?

Through my time shooting Sigs I managed to pick up enough parts to build an entire gun except for the frame. But I would start with the Sig Parts kit like this one:
http://www.topgunsupply.com/sig_p226-9mm_parts-kit.html

Though I am unsure if they've caught up with the design changes (the firing pin position pin has undergone some changes).

Here is the official replacement schedule that Sig gives:
http://sigforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc...5/m/6801056451

Barrel: If the pistol exhibits keyholing or unacceptable accuracy.
Decocking lever spring: 10,000
Extractor: 20,000
Extractor spring: 20,000
Firing pin: 20,000
Firing pin spring: 20,000
Magazine spring: When magazine fails to lock the slide open. *
Recoil spring: 5,000 †
Roll pins for breechblock retention (pins, HD): 5000
Safety lock spring: 20,000
Slide catch lever spring: 10,000
Takedown lever: 20,000
Trigger bar spring: 10,000

I've followed this schedule and the only thing I broke was the roll pins for the breechblock. But John Hearne, a member here, has reported issues with breaking the the take down lever in his 220s.

[psalms144.1]

The P226R used to be my EDC and duty firearm (2002-2006). My observations from daily carry are:

1. The pistol's trigger gets better with age. I swapped out the standard mainspring for a DAK mainspring, which lightened the pull a pound or so, and the trigger just "wore in" very nicely

2. Accuracy was exceptional at all ranges.

3. My pistol would acquire surface rust on a daily basis, being carried in an extremely hot & humid climate in a leather holster (OWB primarily, IWB off duty). Nothing significant, but would require a wipe down with an oily rag every day. I still wouldn't spend the extra coin for a Mk25 just to get the phosphated internals.

4. My P226R was one of the very first to hit the market, definitely produced before "the crash" in QC at Exeter. I'd be happier with a pre-2005 P226 to anything recent, but that's just me.

5. Holsters for "R" pistols are widely available, I don't think there are many major holster makers who don't catalog the P226R. As noted by others, the Mk25's rail is an exception.

6. WRT spare parts & breakage - I never had to replace anything except the recoil spring through the 10K or so rounds I put through my P226. I'd follow Sig's recommended replacement schedule.

Regards,

Kevin

[justintime]

I have a sig related question as well. How low of a hammer spring can you run reliably in the sigs? 19lbs?

[PPGMD]

I have a sig related question as well. How low of a hammer spring can you run reliably in the sigs? 19lbs?

I used 17lb springs, and only had issue with Boxer primed ammo. But it was a gamer gun. IMO you are better off with a 19lb spring and doing a polish job than you are to go down to 17lb main spring.

[taadski]

Though I am unsure if they've caught up with the design changes (the firing pin position pin has undergone some changes)."

The last bunch of parts kits I've ordered came with all three types of FPPPs, FWIW.

The only significant rust issues I've had were with VERY worn old folded steel models. Otherwise, some very minor stuff on grip screws, magazine releases, and incidentally on Heinie sights :-P, but nothing really of note.

If you end up getting an older model, be sure and change out the trigger bar spring as the older ones are prone to early breakage, IME. The newer coil versions are much more robust and generally last for their entire expected service life. I also usually wind up changing out the main spring seat, strut and spring to the newer versions as I find that can help smooth things up some and it makes changing out/fiddling with mainsprings (if you choose to do so) infinitely easier.

There are some pretty screaming deals out there for older trade-in Sigs these days. I picked up two early 2000ish era 226s in 9mm for a touch over $400 a piece a couple months back. There's a gentleman over on Sig Forum that currently has a bunch of 226s in .40 for sale for $395. He gets trade-ins in pretty regularly, it appears. Feel free and drop a PM and I can steer you toward his ad.


t

[taadski]

I used 17lb springs, and only had issue with Boxer primed ammo. But it was a gamer gun. IMO you are better off with a 19lb spring and doing a polish job than you are to go down to 17lb main spring.

This.

I can get away with 17 and 18 lb springs with Federal primers in my game gun but get random light hits with a lot of commercial ammo. My work pistols all have 19 lb mainsprings.