Pretty sure the barrel hood is what will be wrong:Originally Posted by EzGoingKev
And I think the loading port on the bottom is where all the emphasis is, more than the ejection port. There is a whole cottage industry that hogs them out, like this example:
On some of the guns the serial number is even relocated to allow for more material removal:
I looked around last night and learned the barrel hood is different. They moved the location of the gas piston too.
An 18” T barrel that fits the C guns would be…the awesome.
Barrels are $600 each.
I found another advantage to the Comp style hold down lifter beyond not trapping your thumb.
With the standard lifter and the Gen 2 bolt release, if you pull up on the bolt release the shell stop will allow a shell to come out of the magazine. If you do not have the lifter pushed down, it will usually release 2 shells past the shell stop onto the lifter at the same time which causes a mess. Same failure mode as pushing the back end of the Gen 1 bolt release.
The Comp style hold down lifter prevents this from happening. The shell will be released but it is stopped by the end of the lifter, so it only allows a single shell to be released and then you can push up on the lifter to take the shell out.
I know it would probably be rare that something would cause this failure mode but I think it is an added benefit of the hold down lifter.
Good observation CrowHunter… But I leads me to a question related the Gen 2 unloading.
Does anyone use the bolt release button to unload the gun? Maybe it because I’ve owned my Benelli M1 for over 20 years, but I find it easier to reach into the loading port and hit the shell release tab with my finger!?!?!
I reach into the receiver to push the shell stop out of the way and take shells out of the magazine one at a time. That's what I teach as well.
3/15/2016
Here's my latest attempt at making a light work and avoiding having to buy a different forend.
GGG-2563 QD mount/pic rail unit, with an Arisaka scout light on an Arisaka offset scout mount with a Surefire ST-07 tape switch. Head is a Malkoff E1HT.
The good: it holds the light much closer in line with the shotgun, less of a snag issue, and more comfortable being able to move the switch back towards the rear so I don't have to hyper extend my arms trying to activate the light.
The bad: I like keeping the switch on the right hand side (activated with my left hand middle finger) because its in the exact same position as the tape switch on my Surefire 618 forend on my 870. The default ST-07 tape switch cable is too long, so I have no choice but to coil the cable around like you see here. Of course, the cable length is also too short for me to slide under the barrel and install the switch on the left hand side of the forend either.
Side note: My Aridus CROM screws backed out after around 250 rounds. Was installed with the supplied threadlocker (the orange stuff) and screws were well prepped before hand. I'm going to degrease the screws and try blue loctite next time.
I'll be interested to see how that works out. I've generally seen more failures with LocTite than VC3, but VC3 can be somewhat temperamental in how much you apply on fine threads.
Last edited by TCinVA; 12-22-2022 at 10:33 PM.
3/15/2016
Done.
https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....66#post1431366
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
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