Beretta 1301 Tactical

[OldRunner/CSAT Neighbor]

What sling is that?

I’m sure my LF brother Dorsai will be along shortly but from the cheap seats here it looks to be a Vickers BFG.

[Dorsai]

What sling is that?

Blue Force Gear VCAS (Vickers Combat Application Sling). This one happens to be padded, but the padding isn't needed. QD swivels on both ends. I've pretty much settled on that arrangement where feasible. I have a couple that will interchange between rifles, shotguns, etc. Good slings are not cheap and since I can't see much likelihood of slinging up two long guns at the same time, I'd rather be able to just swap the slings. AK's are different and I can't do it with them.

[Wyoming Shooter]

Here is my 1301T with the GG&G sling/light mount and an Olight Baldr Mini https://www.olightstore.com/baldr-mini.html. Sling is Magpul MS1 https://magpul.com/ms1-sling.html?mp_global_color=118 with Magpul Paraclip https://magpul.com/paraclip.html?mp_global_color=118.
I need some more time behind the gun but so far, so good.

[Pnut]

I want to thank DORSAI for his great light/sling setup! I decided to give it a shot with my existing setup which is:
-GGG flashlight mount
-Surefire Mini Pro scout light
-BlueForce sling attached to factory barrel clamp

I chose to use the BCM pic rail QD attachment because it looked like it had the lowest profile clamping area, which will be explained latter.

After installing everything, it all fit fine, BUT the light didn’t sit as close to the barrel because it’s range of movement was blocked by the QD clamp. I ground off some of the clamp to give the light more range. The picture shows the finished product after I cold blued the ground area.




The great thing about the BCM QD piece is that it sticks out further than the light so there is no interference. An added benefit is that it is a non-rotating design. Now I can get I’d of the factory barrel clamp which was UGLY and a pain to remove during gun maintenance!

[Pnut]

A word of caution to anyone wanting to do this mod combo… before you start grinding down the QD mount, make sure it’s exactly where you want it. This is because you’ll need to grind the mount’s retaining clip and the screw that holds it. Just make sure everything is torqued down before you grind away!

[Pnut]

I added a Pro lifter to my 1301 a while back and really like it. It has performed flawlessly at the range and I see no negatives with it.

I did observe something odd during dry firing with dummy rounds. Often, the dummy rounds wouldn’t eject when hand cycling. After carefully analyzing the problem, I think I figured out the problem.

If the trigger isn’t pulled on the round in the chamber, the gun’s mechanics won’t lower the carrier to load the next round. Since the carrier remains in the UP position, it slightly cradles the round as you hand cycle the bolt, causing the failure to eject.

The first time this happened to me, I thought that the ejector or extractor was bad, but they were fine. Once I pulled the trigger on each dummy round, every round ejected fine.

[OlongJohnson]

I use Brownells dummy rounds to practice manipulations. I found out they are not snap caps when I started having failures to feed out of the mag tube. Turns out the 1301's firing pin impact is strong enough it was flattening out the brass, mushrooming the shoulders out to a larger diameter. This larger OD got to a point where I could push them into the tube, but the spring wouldn't push them back out. Had to disassemble the tube to remove them and throw a few dummy rounds in the trash. No more dropping the hammer on the Brownells dummy rounds.

[kwb377]

I've been using Fiocchi dummy rounds for awhile with no issues...

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...rod137211.aspx

[Pnut]

I’ve been using the A-Zoom dummies. They are solid aluminum with a rubber insert for the primer..

As for the failures to eject, I found that if you cycle the charging handled hard, it WILL eject the round.

[shootist26]

I added a Pro lifter to my 1301 a while back and really like it. It has performed flawlessly at the range and I see no negatives with it.

I did observe something odd during dry firing with dummy rounds. Often, the dummy rounds wouldn’t eject when hand cycling. After carefully analyzing the problem, I think I figured out the problem.

If the trigger isn’t pulled on the round in the chamber, the gun’s mechanics won’t lower the carrier to load the next round. Since the carrier remains in the UP position, it slightly cradles the round as you hand cycle the bolt, causing the failure to eject.

The first time this happened to me, I thought that the ejector or extractor was bad, but they were fine. Once I pulled the trigger on each dummy round, every round ejected fine.

I noticed this same issue on my 1301 with the pro lifter as well. I just chalked it up to needing to rack the bolt handle super hard to eject properly, but I'm glad you found the real reason.