Beretta 1301 Tactical

[SW CQB 45]

Rookie semi auto shotty question, and I got my information from old remembered processes.

If this already has been discussed, my apologies.

I did type some various search titles trying to find this specific topic... and came up empty.

I checked the 1301 Beretta Factory manual and came up short.

This 1301 is my very first brand new to me semi auto shotty.

I recall reading in the yearsssss past that a new semi auto should be shot with heavy loads for a period or it will never cycle light loads reliably.

I got some 30 years + behind an 870, had a Benelli M4 for a spell many moons ago but before I shoot this 1301, I want to start off right.

Is that still the case?

I have some reduced loads buck and slug but I can also access some with some oooomppph.

Some years back at a place where I work.... someone ordered a case of 3" loads... and it still sitting around.

[destruya]

I ordered the CROM, too. Not sure it's a critical item for me but all their other stuff is OOS, and I don't need the plastic rail that ships with the 1301 T. It appears that the Briley forend must have the new gas shield now; it's expensive but in the grand scheme of things not all that much more than the Aridus that's been OOS for basically the entire time it's existed.

I looked at the Briley. I can't say I'm terribly enthusiastic about the look of it. I can't fault the functionality it'd bring to the table with more M-LOK attachment points than there are stars in the sky, but $350 for it vs. $200 for the Aridus Zhukov...but it's your gun.

The last piece of my particular puzzle I'm hoping/looking/praying for is the Pro-style loader for the 1301T, as I did have some good news earlier. The scare that Big Tex screwed up my order was a "false alarm." They "found" an RMR CROM and I'm getting my complete order. I also got that $20 GC, which kinda-sorta makes up for the fact that I tendered the order so quickly that I forgot to enter in one of their 10% off coupon codes. I'm not going to email them and quibble over an additional $13.60 back to my Visa. $20 is "close enough," and the chances of my buying something else from Big Tex in the near future is nearly 100%.

Another general question for the thread: since I have the Aridus stock adapter and the SGA stock, which Limbsaver pad would I need to get, or do I really need one since I've heard (and felt) that the stock pad on the SGA stock is pretty nice?

[Phaedrus]

I'm not 100% sold on the Briley as I'm reasonably happy with the stock forend. Right now I've got a Steiner WML that screws into the end of the mag tube; while I'd like to add a Cloud Defensive REIN down the road the Steiner is working fine. The Briley isn't super sexy but the Zhukov looks like ass, too, so it's a wash for me. Function is 1000X bigger deal to me than the looks anyway. What I really want is the SGA adapter but it's been OOS for years so I basically just wrote it off for now. The factory stock is actually pretty good IMO with a reasonable LOP. If the adapter ever materializes I'll get one but I'm not holding my breath.

[destruya]

I think a REIN would probably be overkill on a shotgun. I just bought one that's going on my 18" AR and the HL-X Railmount that's on it is going onto my shotgun. I could use the extra candela and lumens on the rifle for long range target acquisition and beam focus, whereas the wider beam and lower lumens/candela on the HL-X would be more at home on the shotgun.

As for the stock adapter, just make sure you're on the mailing list at Big Tex, I'd imagine their backend is better-coded than Aridus'. I was pretty sure I had notices on a few things that went up for sale there and never saw a single notice in my inbox.

[Cory]

Rookie semi auto shotty question, and I got my information from old remembered processes.

If this already has been discussed, my apologies.

I did type some various search titles trying to find this specific topic... and came up empty.

I checked the 1301 Beretta Factory manual and came up short.

This 1301 is my very first brand new to me semi auto shotty.

I recall reading in the yearsssss past that a new semi auto should be shot with heavy loads for a period or it will never cycle light loads reliably.

I got some 30 years + behind an 870, had a Benelli M4 for a spell many moons ago but before I shoot this 1301, I want to start off right.

Is that still the case?

I have some reduced loads buck and slug but I can also access some with some oooomppph.

Some years back at a place where I work.... someone ordered a case of 3" loads... and it still sitting around.

I remember hearing talk like that about the Remington 1100s and 1187s. I feel like some guns (like the Remys) just choked on short brass when o rings wore out, or people never cleaned them. At least thats how it was with the hunters when I was a kid.

My 1301 shoots anything that chambers, and cycles fine. If there is special break in I haven't followed it. I've shot target loads, 00, turkey loads, and 3" slug. If you're looking for break in from the manufacturer and can't find it... then I wouldnt worry.

[HeavyDuty]

Appears to miraculously STILL be in stock as of this post. Reminder, you can use the Holosun 403 and 503s in these.

Ok, I give. Ordered.

[destruya]

I remember hearing talk like that about the Remington 1100s and 1187s. I feel like some guns (like the Remys) just choked on short brass when o rings wore out, or people never cleaned them. At least thats how it was with the hunters when I was a kid.

My 1301 shoots anything that chambers, and cycles fine. If there is special break in I haven't followed it. I've shot target loads, 00, turkey loads, and 3" slug. If you're looking for break in from the manufacturer and can't find it... then I wouldnt worry.

I'm pretty certain if I tried hard enough and wished upon a star, my 1301 would cycle my dummy rounds without shooter intervention. >.>

Ok, I give. Ordered.

Go turbo-bougie and get the Gold Dot 503!

(just be sure that wherever you order it from has a good return/exchange policy in case it's not your thing)

Clearest example of the gold dot I could find on short notice: https://i2.wp.com/www.snstrain.com/w...5%2C1920&ssl=1

Also, the biggest difference between the 403 and 503s - if you don't know this already - is that the 403s are dot-only whereas the 503s have the 65MOA circle that's supposedly baller for buckshot.

[HeavyDuty]

Go turbo-bougie and get the Gold Dot 503!

(just be sure that wherever you order it from has a good return/exchange policy in case it's not your thing)

Clearest example of the gold dot I could find on short notice: https://i2.wp.com/www.snstrain.com/w...5%2C1920&ssl=1

Also, the biggest difference between the 403 and 503s - if you don't know this already - is that the 403s are dot-only whereas the 503s have the 65MOA circle that's supposedly baller for buckshot.

I haven’t been following Holosun at all, but it looks like a 503 might be a decent choice for my 1301T - I don’t want to drop the coin on an Aimpoint right now. In the cheap dot arena for a shotgun, are they a better bet than PA or a Romeo5? The circle dot makes a lot of sense to me.

Time to pour through threads here.

[Phaedrus]

I think a REIN would probably be overkill on a shotgun. I just bought one that's going on my 18" AR and the HL-X Railmount that's on it is going onto my shotgun. I could use the extra candela and lumens on the rifle for long range target acquisition and beam focus, whereas the wider beam and lower lumens/candela on the HL-X would be more at home on the shotgun.

I've got a REIN and an OWL. The range wouldn't be the issue so much as the bombproof durability.

[destruya]

I haven’t been following Holosun at all, but it looks like a 503 might be a decent choice for my 1301T - I don’t want to drop the coin on an Aimpoint right now. In the cheap dot arena for a shotgun, are they a better bet than PA or a Romeo5? The circle dot makes a lot of sense to me.

Time to pour through threads here.

The PA SLx is definitely the cheapest option. I've definitely seen them paired up on the Aridus mount. While they're built well-enough, I still have to suggest the 503, even if you go with the red SKU.

The 403s are the middle-road option, but don't come with the circle dot, and they're only slightly more expensive than the PAs. The 503s come in red, green, and gold. I've never personally used the gold (despite my prior recommendation), but I can personally vouch for the green dots. The rifle-sized Holosuns like the 403 and 503 have a 65MOA circle while the pistol-sized ones rock a 32MOA circle. Having an HE510C on my SBRed Banshee, I can attest that it's a VERY nice sight. I've also heard people say that the enclosed sight actually forms a much nicer sight picture on the CROM over an open-reflex.

The last thing to mention with regards to Holosun is that your length of warranty is dependent on your SKU. Sights that start with the letters "HS" come with a five-year warranty, while those that start with "HE" come with a ten year warranty. In this particular product range, HS = Red, HE = Green and Gold. And since others might be curious - there are also two sub-variants of the 403 and 503s - those with a solar backup and those without. There's usually about a $10-30 difference between with/without.

Hope this helps.

I've got a REIN and an OWL. The range wouldn't be the issue so much as the bombproof durability.

Gotcha.