I'm not entirely sure I followed all of that...Originally Posted by trajiiic
I simply pull the bolt back just far enough to allow me to slip a shell in at an angle and then press it down on the lifter while carefully easing the bolt closed. It can be a tad fiddly and sometimes I have to work the bolt a bit to get it to seat fully closed but it's a quick process with a bit of practice.
That's fair, your explanation is more efficient. I only did the ghost load on the normal lifter a few times prior to switching to the pro lifter. My experience is that it's more of a PITA with the pro lifter but possible; which may explain my lengthy breakdown.
Key takeaway = only pull the bolt back far enough to slip the shell in.
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I am just glad you like it! You really don't need an extension to use the Briley handgaurd with the gun, I ran it with the stock endcap for a bit (pic below). Sidenote: Never thought about taking off the spring retention cap for more rounds, that is a really cool protip that I wish I knew before I got the extension.
I got you on the pics, attached below. I hope the angles are good, please let me know if I can show any specific sections a bit more clearly.
If you look closely at the M-Lok slots around the KAG you can see the rubber inserts I am using. I have those there to prevent gas from getting to my hand, but I have not ran the rail without them so I don't know how much of an issue it would really be. They were cheap so I see it as a non issue either way.
Got any other questions feel free to ask, I will help where I can!
I don't remember who or where, but I was asked about why I put a QD socket in the side of the buttstock instead of just using the mount on the bottom. Short answer is that I want commonality of my sling attachments. Anyway, I decided to replace the factory QD stud with a flush mounted QD. Thought I'd let anyone who was interested know how I did it. Unscrew the OEM stud and there is a hole that's almost the requisite 1/2". There is a threaded insert that isn't a large enough diameter, so it has to come out. Since it's plastic, enlarging the hole to 1/2" destroys the insert as well, so both issues solved. With that insert gone, there isn't any extra material for the threads except the stock shell itself. The best option would be to fill the cavity with some JB Weld, but I didn't have any. Maybe later. Anyway, I didn't have the right size tap for the threaded mount, so I did it the hard way. Chamfer the edges of the hole and use the mount to cut the threads in the plastic by screwing it in. It's pretty tight, but I do intend to fill the cavity later.
I am just glad you like it! You really don't need an extension to use the Briley handgaurd with the gun, I ran it with the stock endcap for a bit (pic below). Sidenote: Never thought about taking off the spring retention cap for more rounds, that is a really cool protip that I wish I knew before I got the extension.
I got you on the pics, attached below. I hope the angles are good, please let me know if I can show any specific sections a bit more clearly.
If you look closely at the M-Lok slots around the KAG you can see the rubber inserts I am using. I have those there to prevent gas from getting to my hand, but I have not ran the rail without them so I don't know how much of an issue it would really be. They were cheap so I see it as a non issue either way.
Got any other questions feel free to ask, I will help where I can!
Looks great. My Marine will be there one day. Thanks for the pics!
The issue with removing the stock spring retainer on the stock mag tube using it WITH the Briley handguard is getting that spring back in with the handguard covering the end of the stock tube. I normally use my thumps one by on on each spring coil to get it the last 5% of the spring in the tube before reinstalling the cap. I'd be curios to know if it's even possible with the current Briley handguard. If it is, I'm sure it's not fun.
I'm not sure how much gas bleeds out of the stock gas piston. But like you, I'd feel better having something over it.
I like the length of the handguard. My only real gripe is the price (to be expected being the only one) and some of the keymod slot positions don't seem like they would be all that useful. I actually like the length. That being said, I'm still getting one.
"Follow me!"
I don't remember who or where, but I was asked about why I put a QD socket in the side of the buttstock instead of just using the mount on the bottom. Short answer is that I want commonality of my sling attachments. Anyway, I decided to replace the factory QD stud with a flush mounted QD. Thought I'd let anyone who was interested know how I did it. Unscrew the OEM stud and there is a hole that's almost the requisite 1/2". There is a threaded insert that isn't a large enough diameter, so it has to come out. Since it's plastic, enlarging the hole to 1/2" destroys the insert as well, so both issues solved. With that insert gone, there isn't any extra material for the threads except the stock shell itself. The best option would be to fill the cavity with some JB Weld, but I didn't have any. Maybe later. Anyway, I didn't have the right size tap for the threaded mount, so I did it the hard way. Chamfer the edges of the hole and use the mount to cut the threads in the plastic by screwing it in. It's pretty tight, but I do intend to fill the cavity later.
Great info, thanks!
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As you can see with the first picture it is totally doable, that is using the stock endcap and spring, no extension. It is a bit of a fuff to get it in, but not too bad all in all.
The length is pretty sweet, but you are correct that the end M-Lok sections are pretty damned useless for most things, but may be cool for a single anchor sling mount or something of the sort. The price is hefty, but like you said it is the only one out there with this kind of utility, so I just said screw it and pressed the buy button. Glad I did! Also, grats on having your marine come in, you are going to enjoy the hell out of it!
Don't take this as gospel, but I did reach out for a quote to see what the cost of NP3+ would be on the 1301 for the barrel and receiver only (inside/out). Prices will likely change in general but this is a ballpark.
Using the highest number in the estimated range for each service required: $816
EDIT** I'd just like to add that to do the entire gun and components (trigger, rail, etc.) was only a difference of like $150 or so. But I'd be hesitant to NP3 coat the mag tube since it's used as a seal on the gas system.
I purchased the Marine not knowing it was simply a high-vis cerakote job (I have yet to be corrected). Judging by the scratch I was able to put in the paint on the barrel. Cerakote does prevent corrosion, but Beretta's marketing and price premium seem to indicate its somehow different than the Green/FDE models and does not imply that its cerakote (or similar product). I don't understand how it would be.
Down the road I'd like to get the NP3+ done. There are some guns in my collection that I'll be keeping forever. This is one of them.
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On flings and the factory buttstock, you can easilly install a magpul MOE or Mlok swivel into the factory stock. It is hollow and takes about 10 min of work with a drill. I used this set-up for a local course and it worked well.
For gas issues with handguard holes. I don’t think there is a lot of gas coming out of the system. I attempted to modify a factory handguard to install a light and ran into some issues. The result was a few extra holes in the handguard. I was worried because they were next to the piston vent. Out of curiosity, I placed small pieces masking tape over the holes and fired 50 rounds. In the end, the masking tape was still present. I ran the handguard, with open holes, at the aforementioned course with no ill effects.
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Last edited by Coyote41; 06-25-2021 at 03:36 PM.
I saw pictures of a 1301 that someone had cerakoted in burnt bronze, looked nice and as I recall they said it was far more durable than the Beretta coating. FWIW
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