Beretta 1301 Tactical

[GyroF-16]

Thanks!
VERY timely post...

I just got done attempting to “fix” my loose rail and rear sight problem.
I used Vibra-TITE VC-3 (mentioned above), as I had a couple of sample-size 1 mL packs on hand.

Got the rear sight addressed. Beyond a certain snugness, the rear sight screws didn’t get really tight. I stopped trying to tighten further for fear of stripping them. I think it’s the plastic base.

The rail, on the other hand... I really fouled it up. I snapped the head off the rear screw while “tightening” it down, and the front screw was already locked in with VC-3. Then stripped the head of the front screw while trying to remove it in order to attempt removing the shaft fo the rear screw (maybe with needle-nosed pliers).

Fuckity fuck fuck fuck.

So I guess now I’m taking the receiver to the gunsmith at my indoor range to see if he can drill out the two screws I destroyed.
Luckily, I have two more on hand, as the aluminum picatinny rail came with it’s own screws. Wish I had a torque spec for the screws - the failure limit is obviously less than “Gyro-with-a-torx-driver”.

And in the meantime, maybe look for additional screws. Fasteners are not my thing, so any help or advice are welcome.

Now I’m going to try to stop breaking things and crack a beer..

Okay... just got done talking to my gunsmith. He’s very reluctant to work on the receiver. He’s afraid of damaging the plastic rear sight (also anchored with VC-3) by using heat to work on the damaged screws for the rail. I convinced him to try to remove the rear sight and then go to work with heat on the rail screws. He’s also concerned about damaging the receiver while trying to drill out the broken screws.

Anyone here have any ideas on how to defeat the Vibra-TITE VC-3?

I think I’ve learned my lesson re: overdoing it on the strength of threadlocker for tasks that could go sideways.

[GyroF-16]

Evidently I just exceeded the edit window while I was typing the following:

ETA: I found this site to be informative:
https://www.vibra-tite.com/threadloc...-3-threadmate/

Specifically, a quote from the manufacturer saying:

“ Unlike a traditional threadlocker which attempts to fix a fastener solidly in place; VC-3 works on the principle of vibration dampening. VC-3 essentially isolates the fastener from the vibration of the assembly, absorbing any intense shock and vibration which keeps the fastener from rotating. However, when you try to remove a fastener coated with VC-3 with continual torque in a singe direction, because of VC-3′s viscous flow properties, it will eventually rotate out. But this action is not representative of vibration in a real use situation where the direction and velocity is of a more random pattern.“

Which indicates that heat is not necessary or even helpful.
I’ve passed this on to my gunsmith.

[OlongJohnson]

Massive overkill: If a thread tap is broken off in an assembly of significant value, wire EDM is the go-to for getting it out. It basically makes the metal disappear, is my understanding. I've never seen it in operation, though.

[GyroF-16]

Massive overkill: If a thread tap is broken off in an assembly of significant value, wire EDM is the go-to for getting it out. It basically makes the metal disappear, is my understanding. I've never seen it in operation, though.

Okay, I’m intrigued...

Google gives me (in order):
Electronic Dance Music
Enthought Deployment Manenger (WTFO?j
Educational Data Mining
Enterprise Data Management

Ah!-
Electrical Discharge Machining (on page 4 of the Google search]

I’ll have to read up on that in the morning.

[Kosuke Kutsunugi]

What loads do you use for bear and hogs, slugs I'm guessing? What kid of distances? The Aimpoint micro reportedly holds up well on these guns. I would be interested to hear what optics you're using, what's working for you?

I change the ammo what to hunt.
I want to hunt wild bore and bear, I usually use rifled slug in IC or Cy.
to hunt dear, I always use 27 pellets back shot with full or mod choke.
to hunt birds, I use #5 birds shot in Cy.

Japan government allow gun hunting in limited areas, it exist mountain and forest.
it is poor visitation because of tree overgrow, darkness and steep mountain.

I always shoot 20~30 m and shooting chance is only 2 seconds.
So, i need quick aiming to use optics.

one reason I attach optics is that I think circle type raticle looks like eotech and so on is good for quick aiming for shotgun.
When i use rifled slug, I aim center dot.
When i use back shot, I aim circle dot. back shot pellet accurate in circle at 30 m

another reason I go to hunt alone,
when I attach rifle scope, I go to hunt alone for dear hunting.
I use scope to search dear look likes binoculars.

I change the optics for my hunting style changes together.
If you zero in first, it is no problem to detach optics in my shooting distance.

I hear aimpoint optics is high quality, I concern aimpoint S1.
Do you Know the review for aimpoint S1?
I want to know aimpoint micro review too.

[OlongJohnson]

another reason I go to hunt alone,
when I attach rifle scope, I go to hunt alone for dear hunting.
I use scope to search dear look likes binoculars.

I'm not a hunting expert, but that is a very bad practice. Buy separate binoculars. Use the scope for aiming the firearm. Use binoculars for searching for the game. If you use the scope to search for game, it is automatic that you will be pointing the gun at unknown objects, many of them things that you should not point the gun at. That is potentially very dangerous. Only point the gun in the direction of what you have determined you want to shoot, or another safe direction (at the ground).

[OlongJohnson]

My Langdon 1301 only takes six 2.75 rounds. To get the seventh in, I really need to force it the last bit, and it then doesn’t want to release from the tube. I pulled the spring and follower, reinstalled them, with no change. Thoughts?

I received the Carrier follower, installed it, and now it takes seven rounds in the tube. BTW, the Federal Flight Control 2.75 buck seem longer than 2.75 bird shot.

A link to this video ended up in my email inbox today.



I guess you can fix it with a different follower, too.

[Flyboytim]

A link to this video ended up in my email inbox today.



I guess you can fix it with a different follower, too.

Good video. I posted the following to the comment section:

“Just to add to your ideas on this. The measurement of a shotgun shell is based on the un-crimped, un-rolled, or brand new hull length, not the length of a completed round. This is why you find variations in shotgun shell lengths. They vary by powder volume, shot size and amount, crimp style and wad size, for examples. These factors influence the final length of the shell whose hull started life at 2 3/4” or 3” or whichever...”

[GJM]

Most of my shotgun shooting in recent years has been with a 14 inch Benelli M2 and Brenneke Classic Magnum slugs. While not Scandium 329 with full power .44 magnum level painful, after a half dozen slugs or so, my eyes water.

Around the holiday, I got a Langdon 1301 and got it kitted out with a Micro. Nice shotgun. Just this week, I decided to spring for a latest Gen, 1301 in FDE, add the Nordic kit, and try to run it otherwise bare to minimize weight. I first zeroed it at 25 yards with Fiocchi slugs. The 1301 came with the front sight slightly cock eyed, and the rear sight offset right. Took a few clicks to get it zeroed, and the rear sight was pretty neutral. I then shot Federal Tru Ball slugs, and POI at 25 was basically the same. I asked my wife to shoot it, but with Brenneke/Benelli thoughts in her mind, she was like “no way.” I said it is so soft shooting, it is no big deal.

She was shooting an array with her CO pistol, and I told her to let me run it with the shotgun. The shotty just knocked the steel and stands right over, with Fed 8 pellet buck, which was definitive. Fed buck Flite Control buck seems quite tight out of this barrel. I fired my last round at 15 yards — do you think this load makes major?

[Doc_Glock]

Most of my shotgun shooting in recent years has been with a 14 inch Benelli M2 and Brenneke Classic Magnum slugs. While not Scandium 329 with full power .44 magnum level painful, after a half dozen slugs or so, my eyes water.

Around the holiday, I got a Langdon 1301 and got it kitted out with a Micro. Nice shotgun. Just this week, I decided to spring for a latest Gen, 1301 in FDE, add the Nordic kit, and try to run it otherwise bare to minimize weight. I first zeroed it at 25 yards with Fiocchi slugs. The 1301 came with the front sight slightly cock eyed, and the rear sight offset right. Took a few clicks to get it zeroed, and the rear sight was pretty neutral. I then shot Federal Tru Ball slugs, and POI at 25 was basically the same. I asked my wife to shoot it, but with Brenneke/Benelli thoughts in her mind, she was like “no way.” I said it is so soft shooting, it is no big deal.

She was shooting an array with her CO pistol, and I told her to let me run it with the shotgun. The shotty just knocked the steel and stands right over, with Fed 8 pellet buck, which was definitive. Fed buck Flite Control buck seems quite tight out of this barrel. I fired my last round at 15 yards — do you think this load makes major?

I am tremendously recoil sensitive. Generally I just don't like shotguns. But I like my 1301T. I have one that is all done up with the Magpul, CROM, light, sling and Aimpoint.

I just got another used from a member here, and it is completely stock. I have to be honest, it doesn't need anything (except maybe the Tau latch cover). I like it out of the box, I like the simplicity, the light weight and the open sights. Load and shoot.

She should try it.