Beretta 1301 Tactical

[1slow]

Yeah the adapter will be offered on its own as well, it'll just be a bit more expensive (and more accurately reflect the machine time on it). One factor, which I'm coming to terms with, is the acceptability of certain toolmarks, especially if they are "artistic." One of the best examples I've seen of this recently is on the ALG glock magwell. They don't have a crazy amount of machine time in them to have a perfect contour. Instead they use a ball endmill and much larger stepdowns. There are bumps, lines, and toolmarks, but it still looks fine and keeps the price from being absurd.

Finding the sweet spot of the correct size ball endmill with the correct stepdown to make it look and feel good while having reasonable machine time will be the tricky part. I have a price point in mind I'd like to try and stay at or under, so I know what I need to keep the machine time to be under, so if I can get something that looks and feels good AND falls within those parameters, all will be good!

It is the "Enhanced Grip Finish" a feature not a flaw !

[NoLock]

unlikely.. it was easy enough to make that if someone wanted one they could bang it out for under 10 bucks with a dremel and some patience..

All I did was buy a piece of angle iron (I think it was 1/2in steel)
measure it out to where I wanted it
line it up with the mount and scratch a mark drill your holes
then just shaped out the metal.. rounding out the corners and all that..

sand.. prep for for finishing.. then coating..

it took longer than it should have... but it was a lazy afternoon with nothing else to do..


the same principle would work with other lights as well.. just need to pick the right rings and measure it out..

Thanks for the info. Do you see any reason why a setup like that wouldn't allow for the light to be back further? What did you finish it with?

[vladtepes]

Thanks for the info. Do you see any reason why a setup like that wouldn't allow for the light to be back further? What did you finish it with?

you could definitely go back a little further but here is what you will need to consider..

1) at some point you may need to shave the ledge that the light sits on, on the gun side of the light mount to clear the hand guard.. it may just be some trial and error..

2) you don't really want to go too far back because as you go back you will create a shadow on your strong side due to the barrel reducing the effectiveness of the light

3) if you shoot from behind a barrier you will need to get more of the gun out in front of the barrier to not block the light with said barrier


I just used Krylon camo ultra flat black.. with proper prep and priming I have found this paint to be pretty strong..

[9mm_shooter]

you could definitely go back a little further but here is what you will need to consider..

1) at some point you may need to shave the ledge that the light sits on, on the gun side of the light mount to clear the hand guard.. it may just be some trial and error..

2) you don't really want to go too far back because as you go back you will create a shadow on your strong side due to the barrel reducing the effectiveness of the light

3) if you shoot from behind a barrier you will need to get more of the gun out in front of the barrier to not block the light with said barrier


I just used Krylon camo ultra flat black.. with proper prep and priming I have found this paint to be pretty strong..

If I may, I'd like to ask a question about your light mount as well. Where did you find the rings for your flashlight?

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[vladtepes]

If I may, I'd like to ask a question about your light mount as well. Where did you find the rings for your flashlight?

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those are not rings that is a Surefire scout light.. the rings are machined into the body of the light..

with that said there are numerous solutions out there that could be adapted to fit..

possibly something like this..
http://www.impactweaponscomponents.c...ndheld-lights/

if I were going to use that I might use a thinner piece of angle iron and shape the metal so it tapers into the same width of the mount to make it look smooth..

[vandal]

Earl at IWC told me the mounting holes for the SMC light mount are .900 on center, which I think would mean it could be bolted right to the Nordic clamp.



But I ordered a LWRCI 2-Hole Rail Section w/ QD Sling Mount Kit to see if I can just use that instead of the Nordic rail to get sling and light on the same side.

[Wyoming Shooter]

Vandal - please keep us posted. Thanks.

[vandal]

Ghetto mod to my wall-mounted lock, to accommodate the Aridus carrier latch. Also had to drill a big hole in my drywall for the bolt handle to poke into.

[dfeder530]

My solution to mounting a light to the end of the 1301 that is actually useable while shouldered. Streamlight Rail Mount 2 with pressure switch mounted on a Nordic Components magazine clamp. The switch is held by double sided tape to the forend and then wrapped with Gorilla tape to prevent side to side movement. I can activate it with my index and middle finger while in a normal firing position. Not the prettiest, but it is solid enough for range use and home defense. Fired 50 rounds of buckshot today and it seems to work. The lens and head got dirty quick but easily wiped off.

[nalesq]

Ghetto mod to my wall-mounted lock, to accommodate the Aridus carrier latch. Also had to drill a big hole in my drywall for the bolt handle to poke into.

If you didn't have an Aridus carrier latch to accommodate, could you have flipped the 1301 around so the charging handle faced away from the wall?


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