3/15/2016
Sent one email on Saturday. There's a whole new 1301T clamp kit in my hands today. They took care of it right.Originally Posted by OlongJohnson
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Not another dime.
Still waiting to try to find the nordic kit in stock somewhere. They must produce like 5 at a time. I'm on waiting lists for lanbos and grab a gun haha. My parts from Erik should hopefully be here this week to get the back up and working again too which I'm really looking forward to.
When I bought mine in 2016/17 I went direct to the source > Nordic.
Do they offer an option on their WS to be notified when items are back in stock or perhaps to back order one?
Not that I've seen on their website. I even looked at ordering pieces individually but they are out of the mxt connector too.
Clamps are in stock. https://nordiccomp.com/categories/be...-barrel-clamp/
Nuts can be had. https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/816696020808
Google and gun.deals are your friends.
Last edited by OlongJohnson; 02-23-2018 at 10:49 PM.
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Not another dime.
Installed the Nordic Comp parts over the weekend.
I ended up needing to deburr the clamps at the tips of the upper part that clamps on the barrel. All three usable pieces had significant burrs in that location that would have interfered with a secure wrap and smooth, uniform contact on the barrel. Instead, the barrel would have been contacted only at the very bottom and at the very top by the burrs. Because they are coated in aluminum oxide (anodizing), they may also have put some scratches in the bluing on the barrel, which would be pretty annoying if you ever moved or removed the clamp. The two pieces in the new assembly also had some strange lumpiness at the bottom of the part that wraps the barrel, adjacent to the screws. All was able to easily be corrected with some small files and stones.
The burrs seem to have been created only during the machining where the 1301T-specific clamps are machined back to clear the front sight base. The other ends, where they clamp the extension tube, had no burrs, and furthermore were contoured so that even if there had been equivalently located burrs, they would not have actually contacted the extension tube.
For bonus points, I had some steel washers that were a perfect fit on the clamp screws and fit in the counterbores. I ground the heads of the clamp screws so they would be below flush relative to the clamp's accessory mounting surface, but still have more than full engagement with a Bondhus ball driver. Hit everything with cold blue and it looks great. The point is that using socket head cap screws directly on aluminum is not best practice. It often leads to them swaging into the surface of the aluminum as they are tightened. The steel washer provides a harder surface for them to bear against, and distributes the force over a larger contact area of the aluminum. We're probably not applying enough torque on the clamp to do a lot of damage to the aluminum the first time things are assembled, but for something that may come on and off or get repositioned for many cycles over the life of the parts, I still like to have washers.
When I went to install the sling mount, I found that the Nordic Comp part had been machined with a 90-degree countersink. The included screws (and most inch-denominated flat head screws) have 82-degree tapers, so the screw did not mate securely with the part. In theory, the contact was a single ring where the countersink meets the through-hole. In practice, the aluminum would deform some, but it's still far from full contact, and the top of the screw was above flush relative to the surface of the part. So I put the mount in a drill press and touched it with an 82-degree countersink, giving a much more secure interface between the screw and the part. I did the Pic rail, too. The rail didn't get cut where I expected it to, suggesting it may have actually had a nominally 82-degree countersink originally, but the end result is still cleaned up and a more secure fit of the screw, with less wobble. The bare aluminum is covered by the screw head, so there's no shiny silver part to look bad. The tops of both screws are also now just below flush with the surface of the sling mount and the bottom of the slot in the Pic rail, so it looks much better. The stickout of the screws from the back of the accessories exactly matches the thickness of the clamps where they thread through, suggesting the current condition may have actually been the design intent.
Hopefully, this plane is finally on the ground.
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Not another dime.
Even if the clamps are perfect you are going to get some wear on the barrel with them installed.
3/15/2016
Psssst... don’t tell anyone, but I’m not using the clamp.
Lanbo's had the kits come in stock today so I snagged one not sure how many they have left if anyone else wants to get them. It was $107 + $10 shipping.
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