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Thread: Beretta 1301 Tactical

  1. #2741
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nobody View Post
    Having done Combat Development while on active duty for my SF GP, I fully understand the issue of the magazine, or more correctly the magazine spring issue having to handle 10 shells with 1 1/4 oz of shot. I know the history from the Combat Shotgun experiments during the Vietnam war (Crane and China Lake had box magazine feed 870's decades before the current ones). How about looking outside the Gun Industry Box and look to say a Swiss Watch maker who deals with precise springs inside a watch, or an Olympic barbell maker who has to make a 20kg barbell that has to snap back to very tight tolerances after 500+ pounds are dropped repeatedly from over head, or offload automotive company who makes coil spring that help Trophy Trucks deal with a 40 inch tire and wheel assembly moving up and down over 600rpm when the truck is moving at over 140mph while racing the Baja. Beretta has the know how they just need a little outside the box thinking. Beretta = Shotguns. Take the Glock approach and look at it from outside the gun industry box.
    Actually... it has far more to do with feed geometry and reliability than springs at this point. There are some pretty awesome spring solutions for magazine springs that are available these days that make that mostly a non-issue.

    The biggest issue is that there is a huge discrepancy in shell OAL and external shape, so feeding from a box mag vs a lifter that presents the shell the same way every time no matter what OAL it is is tricky.
    Last edited by e_stern; 12-07-2018 at 11:55 AM.
    Used to make pasta, now I make waffles.

  2. #2742
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    To expand on that... if we were to build a mag fed gun that only ran on one type of 12 ga, it would be pretty simple and straightforward. But most users want to be able to run every shell that's on the market, so that is a consideration that must be taken.

    Again, not saying no at all, but in order to offer something that is up to our standards for ultimate reliability across a multitude of different types of loads, it will take some thinking.
    Used to make pasta, now I make waffles.

  3. #2743
    Member John Hearne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by e_stern View Post
    To expand on that... if we were to build a mag fed gun that only ran on one type of 12 ga, it would be pretty simple and straightforward.
    You mean one kind of solid brass cased shotgun shell.
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  4. #2744
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    Found a 1301 Tactical for 859 at my LGS… trying to decide whether to finally get one.

  5. #2745
    Site Supporter SeriousStudent's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by masternave View Post
    Found a 1301 Tactical for 859 at my LGS… trying to decide whether to finally get one.
    Doooo ettt!

  6. #2746
    Quote Originally Posted by SeriousStudent View Post
    Doooo ettt!
    ditto.


    Since getting my own 1301 a few months ago, I have been kicking myself for not taking the plunge earlier. It is a great gun.
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  7. #2747
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    Input for mounting a light on Magpul forend

    Hi gang-
    My 1301T is slowily evolving, and now I’m putting a light on it.
    I’m going to use a Magpul M-Lok Scout Mount, and I have a Streamlight ProTac HL-X with a pressure switch with about an 8” cord.
    I’m new to the “mounting stuff on shotguns” world, so i need guidance from smarter people.
    I’m left handed- should the light be on the left or right side?
    I’m thinking putting it on the left would get it more out of the way of my thumb at the front of the Magpul forend.
    And should the pressure switch go on the “thumb” or the “fingers” side of the forend?
    Is there a best way too attach the switch? It came with pre-cut 3M VHB tape, and some kind of brackets for attaching to a pic rail... but it seems silly to M-Lok a rail to the forend just to attach a pressure switch in top of that.

    I’m thinking that someone has done something similar before... please help a brother out!

  8. #2748
    Site Supporter LOKNLOD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GyroF-16 View Post
    Hi gang-
    My 1301T is slowily evolving, and now I’m putting a light on it.
    I’m going to use a Magpul M-Lok Scout Mount, and I have a Streamlight ProTac HL-X with a pressure switch with about an 8” cord.
    I’m new to the “mounting stuff on shotguns” world, so i need guidance from smarter people.
    I’m left handed- should the light be on the left or right side?
    I’m thinking putting it on the left would get it more out of the way of my thumb at the front of the Magpul forend.
    And should the pressure switch go on the “thumb” or the “fingers” side of the forend?
    Is there a best way too attach the switch? It came with pre-cut 3M VHB tape, and some kind of brackets for attaching to a pic rail... but it seems silly to M-Lok a rail to the forend just to attach a pressure switch in top of that.

    I’m thinking that someone has done something similar before... please help a brother out!

    My preference - with a tape switch, I'd mount the light on the outboard side,left side in your case, and put the tape switch on the inboard side to hit it with my thumb. Outboard side makes using it around cover a little easier, and you're more likely to do that from your strong side.
    --Josh
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  9. #2749
    Member fpnunes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by masternave View Post
    Found a 1301 Tactical for 859 at my LGS… trying to decide whether to finally get one.
    Easy answer, yes. They are great guns and a pleasure to own.

  10. #2750
    Site Supporter Casey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GyroF-16 View Post
    I’m going to use a Magpul M-Lok Scout Mount, and I have a Streamlight ProTac HL-X with a pressure switch with about an 8” cord.
    I'm interested to hear how this works out for you. There was recent thread over on P&S regarding a not-insignificant number of end users experiencing reliability issues with the HL-X, specifically when used with CR123 batteries and the tape switch.

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