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Thread: Beretta 1301 Tactical

  1. #3361
    Fornicates with shovels Hambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velvetfoot View Post
    At a buck or so a shot, never mind the recoil, I don't know how many I'll be wanting to shoot for zero.
    Shoot however many rounds you need to in order to zero it the way you want it. Compared to the cost of the shotgun, optic, accessories, it's nothing.

    If it makes you feel better, the turkey loads I use are $4 each, and that's with a rebate. I want to cry at the patterning board, but it has to be done.
    Reed, the dicks have their job, and we have ours.

  2. #3362
    Murder Machine, Harmless Fuzzball TCinVA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velvetfoot View Post
    How do you zero in the 1301T?
    (I haven't fired it yet.)

    I put on a Bushnell TRS-25 on it, and adjusted it so that the dot sits at the aim point of the irons, in the house.
    The iron sights line up on the bottom of the scope's ocular (did I use that properly?).

    When I actually bring it to the range, how do I zero it?
    I'm thinking zero the red dot with slugs at 25 yards, or is that too far? Adjust irons to aim point of red dot?

    At a buck or so a shot, never mind the recoil, I don't know how many I'll be wanting to shoot for zero.

    Any tips appreciated. Thanks.
    Zero the gun for what your intended use is.

    If it is meant to be a home defense gun used with buckshot primarily, find the buckshot load you want to use and zero for the impact of that buckshot round at the max distance you anticipate.

    I zero my gun for the center of the pattern of FFC at 25 yards. As a result, I have a good point of aim, point of impact from 0-25 yards with my preferred buckshot load.

    If you want to use slugs occasionally, find slugs that hit to the same point of aim as your buckshot. I've found Federal's Tru-Ball slugs shoot to the same point of aim as FFC buckshot in most of my guns. It can even be had in a low recoil form if you prefer that.

    If you can't find a slug that hits to the same point of aim you should be able to get at least close and then use some training time to figure out how to compensate for the different point of impact should you need to do so.

    I already had my gun's sights set up for my buckshot of choice and when I mounted the red dot I simply moved the dot to sit on top of the front sight blade as centered as I could. Then I went to the range and fine tuned the red dot to get the most precise zero I could.
    Last edited by TCinVA; 10-27-2019 at 03:52 PM.
    3/15/2016

  3. #3363
    Site Supporter JSGlock34's Avatar
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    Where's the best deal on a 1301 Tactical these days?
    "When the phone rang, Parker was in the garage, killing a man."

  4. #3364
    gun.deals
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  5. #3365
    Site Supporter GreggW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JSGlock34 View Post
    Where's the best deal on a 1301 Tactical these days?
    I haven’t found any good deals on Gen 2’s. There’s a Gen 1 Viper local for $800 if you can deal with the cameo pattern. No screw in chokes.
    “If you know the way broadly you will see it in everything." - Miyamoto Musashi

  6. #3366
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    Got the slop out of the lifter

    I bought a 1301T year ago. I've had a problem with the lifter getting caught on the bolt release when the bolt is locked backed. I could push the lifter until it shifted sideways and got stuck. It has been getting stuck under recoil more often lately. I came up with a cheap fix today that I think has fixed it. Now I can't push the lifter down (gun is upside down) and sideways to make it stick anymore. In fact I can't budge the lifter at all. I'll try it tomorrow at the range.

    My fix is to place an ordinary 1/4" flat washer on the end of the carrier bushing. It fits there like it was supposed to be there in the first place. Reassembling the trigger group is no problem at all with the washer on. It keeps the lifter from shifting sideways and getting stuck on the bolt release.

    I took some short video clips of before and after on my phone but the files are too large to email to myself for uploading. If you want to see them PM me and I'll text them to you. Here's a few screen shots showing where the washer goes.



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    Last edited by delphidoc; 11-10-2019 at 08:46 PM.

  7. #3367
    Site Supporter Clusterfrack's Avatar
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    I had that happen to my 1301 Gen 2. I sent it back to Beretta. They sent a prepaid pickup box and fixed it very quickly.
    "BJJ is sort of like nonconsensual yoga"
    "You don’t really graduate from certain problems or certain things… like you always have to work on trigger control and pulling the trigger straight. " --Ben Stoeger 1/24/2018

  8. #3368
    Member
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    Has anyone noticed that scratch/ring on the magazine tube, near the piston getting worse with use?


    Or is it a self limiting wear pattern?

  9. #3369
    I read about that early on as the one thing that goes wrong as round counts climb (3-gun levels of shooting). I could find the replacement tubes for about 40 Euro online. I'd imagine BUSA could supply them, but I couldn't find them actually listed anywhere in the US. I had contacted BUSA about other parts and been told that Brownell's was the exclusive authorized seller of Beretta parts. At that time, Brownell's was charging more for Beretta parts than the same parts on the BUSA site at MSRP, and that pretty much pissed me off. They seem to have changed their approach at least a little since then and I no longer loathe and resent them as much. (Actually, I'm pretty much over it and consider that ancient history. Their service is awesome and I spend a decent amount of money with them. I especially like when they have free shipping with no minimum, you backorder half a dozen little parts and they all ship out whenever they come into stock. But when I can identify their supplier selling the same item for half the price, I buy it from the supplier. Because 100+ percent markup from retail is always bogus.)

    My personal evaluation of the piston was that the ID machined edges seemed pretty sharp feeling. Not an obvious burr, but maybe microscopic ones, enough to wear the tube. I hit the ID with very fine wet-dry sandpaper and oil until the machined edges no longer felt sharp. Solvent cleaned it to be sure all the steel powder and fractured aluminum oxide were off it before reassembling. Haven't put enough rounds through it to declare victory yet, but I am reasonably confident mine will wear more slowly than it otherwise would have.

    I understand the pistons on the second gen have some kind of coating. It's discussed earlier in this thread.
    Last edited by OlongJohnson; 11-13-2019 at 04:34 PM.
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    In Britain, they have made burglary a safe operation. It's like OSHA for burglars. - Thomas Sowell

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