Picked up my 1301 today at the LGS. It does indeed have a removeable cylinder choke. But, alas, no choke wrench.
Feels nice to me.
Picked up my 1301 today at the LGS. It does indeed have a removeable cylinder choke. But, alas, no choke wrench.
Feels nice to me.
That's odd... Beretta is supposed to include one. Mine certainly did. I bet if you called them they would send you out one.Originally Posted by Velvetfoot
I did indeed just call them, and they're sending out a wrench, gratis! Thanks for the suggestion.
I guess I didn't have to order that one from eBay after all, but they're small enough where a spare probably wouldn't be a bad.
Now you can misplace one and still be good! [emoji23]
How do you zero in the 1301T?
(I haven't fired it yet.)
I put on a Bushnell TRS-25 on it, and adjusted it so that the dot sits at the aim point of the irons, in the house.
The iron sights line up on the bottom of the scope's ocular (did I use that properly?).
When I actually bring it to the range, how do I zero it?
I'm thinking zero the red dot with slugs at 25 yards, or is that too far? Adjust irons to aim point of red dot?
At a buck or so a shot, never mind the recoil, I don't know how many I'll be wanting to shoot for zero.
Any tips appreciated. Thanks.
If your shotgun will be primarily loaded with slugs, you’ve got the right idea. Zero it at 25y and find a buckshot that hits close to your zero. If your shotgun will be primarily loaded with buckshot, you should zero it with buckshot. Federal Flight Control or the equivalent Hornady buckshot with their Versatite wad will likely pattern the tightest. Depending on how tight the pattern is, you might still be able to zero it at 25y. Then find a slug that hits close.
Last edited by WobblyPossum; 10-25-2019 at 06:53 PM. Reason: Spelling
My posts only represent my personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect the opinions or official policies of any employer, past or present. Obvious spelling errors are likely the result of an iPhone keyboard.
Shoot however many rounds you need to in order to zero it the way you want it. Compared to the cost of the shotgun, optic, accessories, it's nothing.
If it makes you feel better, the turkey loads I use are $4 each, and that's with a rebate. I want to cry at the patterning board, but it has to be done.
"Gunfighting is a thinking man's game. So we might want to bring thinking back into it."-MDFA
Beware of my temper, and the dog that I've found...
Zero the gun for what your intended use is.
If it is meant to be a home defense gun used with buckshot primarily, find the buckshot load you want to use and zero for the impact of that buckshot round at the max distance you anticipate.
I zero my gun for the center of the pattern of FFC at 25 yards. As a result, I have a good point of aim, point of impact from 0-25 yards with my preferred buckshot load.
If you want to use slugs occasionally, find slugs that hit to the same point of aim as your buckshot. I've found Federal's Tru-Ball slugs shoot to the same point of aim as FFC buckshot in most of my guns. It can even be had in a low recoil form if you prefer that.
If you can't find a slug that hits to the same point of aim you should be able to get at least close and then use some training time to figure out how to compensate for the different point of impact should you need to do so.
I already had my gun's sights set up for my buckshot of choice and when I mounted the red dot I simply moved the dot to sit on top of the front sight blade as centered as I could. Then I went to the range and fine tuned the red dot to get the most precise zero I could.
Last edited by TCinVA; 10-27-2019 at 02:52 PM.
3/15/2016
Where's the best deal on a 1301 Tactical these days?
"When the phone rang, Parker was in the garage, killing a man."
gun.deals
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Not another dime.
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