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Thread: Beretta 1301 Tactical

  1. #5061
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    Quote Originally Posted by HeavyDuty View Post
    I give up. Disgusted isn’t a strong enough word for this.

    I tried three different Micro format dots on my CROM - a Romeo5, Romeo4T and now a new Holosun 503CU I bought just for the purpose. None of them allow cowitness with the CROM rear and factory front iron sights, they are all too high. Going back through the thread and looking at zoomed in pictures, the only Micro format dots I am seeing that seem to even come close to cowitness are the Aimpoints.

    I’ve wasted enough time and money on this. What is the use of a CROM unless you can cowitness? Back to the factory irons, maybe I’ll spend the money on an Aimpoint at some point - but only after I’ve seen with my own eyes that it will cowitness with the CROM.

    Maybe this will help others from wasting their money chasing cowitness.
    FWIW, I had a Vortex dot on mine and it worked fine. Now have an Aimpoint and it also works fine. Did you zero? I had to crank the rear up quite a bit on my CROM.

  2. #5062
    Site Supporter HeavyDuty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RancidSumo View Post
    FWIW, I had a Vortex dot on mine and it worked fine. Now have an Aimpoint and it also works fine.
    By fine, you mean with the gun shouldered you can see both front and rear iron sights through the tube?

    To your edit - no, how high are we talking? None of the photos I just saw after about 50 or so pages of looking showed the rear cranked up very high. If this is simply an adjustment issue, I’m going to be even more pissed - at myself.
    Ken

    BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
    revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”

  3. #5063
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    Quote Originally Posted by HeavyDuty View Post
    By fine, you mean with the gun shouldered you can see both front and rear iron sights through the tube?
    Yes. I have irons and dot zeroed and can shoot with the irons only/dot turned off.

  4. #5064
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    Quote Originally Posted by HeavyDuty View Post
    By fine, you mean with the gun shouldered you can see both front and rear iron sights through the tube?

    To your edit - no, how high are we talking? None of the photos I just saw after about 50 or so pages of looking showed the rear cranked up very high. If this is simply an adjustment issue, I’m going to be even more pissed - at myself.
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  5. #5065
    Site Supporter HeavyDuty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RancidSumo View Post
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    This was user error on my part - if I crank mine up that high I do get cowitness.

    I’m such a moron.
    Ken

    BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
    revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”

  6. #5066
    Quote Originally Posted by SeriousStudent View Post
    I have an S1 on a project shotgun I did.

    Left-handed Remington 870 with a vent rib cut down to 18.5 inches, and a velcro side saddle. Very fast and accurate for a right-hander. It's surprisingly easy to adapt to, after years of shooting right-handed shotguns.

    I did swap it out for a right-handed trigger assembly.
    Did the rib have to be modified to accept the S-1? An Aimpoint vendor told me last fall that the S-1 wouldn’t fit Remington ribs.

  7. #5067
    Quote Originally Posted by TCinVA View Post
    Speaking of the UK's practical shotgun scene, an outfit in the UK called Master Class Custom Guns at one point sold a single piece titanium charging handle that actually stays in the bolt exactly like the factory charging handle. Other options on the market are either two piece units (not really an upgrade over factory, IMO) or don't have the key-like protrusion on the end that keeps the handle locked into the bolt carrier group until deliberately removed.

    Attachment 81964

    I've had one in my main 1301 for a good chunk of 2021 and it's worked splendidly.

    Their website seems to be FUBAR, but you can probably contact them using the contact info on their social media to see if they can ship you one. I think the cost was something like $70 US plus a bit of shipping. Expensive, but if you've ever had heartburn about a two piece charging handle it seems like a good solution.
    Masterclass fixed their site and the bolt handles are in stock.

  8. #5068
    Site Supporter SeriousStudent's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian T View Post
    So now you righties see why we lefties like right hand eject 870s...! I have a LH 11-87 if you want to deal. As a lefty I cannot warm up to LH eject/load shotguns. I end up buying RH eject/load shotguns and either drop LH safety trigger groups in or I modify the existing RH trigger group.


    If you still have that LH 870 trigger group, I have an extra RH 870 trigger group. Is yours just LH safety or LH carrier too?

    It was a "factory stock" shotgun, so it's an entire LH trigger plate assembly.

  9. #5069
    Site Supporter SeriousStudent's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobM View Post
    Did the rib have to be modified to accept the S-1? An Aimpoint vendor told me last fall that the S-1 wouldn’t fit Remington ribs.
    Always grind the cheap part. I worked over the tab on the Aimpoint mount.

    We can wait until Wayne Dobbs gets back from SHOT, and has recovered from that miserable experience. But I think they do make a kit of adapter tab thingies now.

    https://www.aimpoint.com/fileadmin/u...tion-Guide.pdf

    https://www.aimpoint.com/products/mo...-set-a-b-01-02

    https://www.aimpoint.com/products/mo...-set-c-d-03-04

    I'd call Strohman's and see if they can help you. They are awesome people.

  10. #5070
    Member Kosuke Kutsunugi's Avatar
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    1301's gas valve repairing

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    I incorporated the gas valve in my Beretta barrel as it arrived.

    Note: Beretta does not recommend disassembling the gas valve.

    Here is the procedure.

    1. The old nut can be removed by using a pipe wrench.

    2. Be careful when the nut leaves the screw, as the spring will bounce around vigorously.

    3. Clean and polish the gunpowder residue stuck to the barrel and gas valve with solvent.

    4. With the bolt and gas piston removed, reassemble the barrel and body.

    5. Place the gas valve in the original order and use the mag extension to twist the spring halfway in.

    Apply the spilling compressor to the nut side of the spring and the exit side of the gas piston.

    7. Shrink the spring, tighten the nut all the way and loosen the spring compressor, and the replacement is complete.

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