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Thread: Beretta 1301 Tactical

  1. #3401
    Installed my new Blitz front sight today. Had to use the feeler gauges to make sure it was on straight but looks good and bright. The triangle should be precise. It is higher than stock but as others have used it I think it’s only a click or 2 adjustment on the rear. I was surprised beretta doesn’t use a lock washer but at least they have a locking nut so that should hopefully be it. I didn’t use any thread locker. My CROM arrived today as well but my RMR is out of town so it will have to wait till the weekend

  2. #3402
    Any idea if one of these barrels can be threaded for a choke?

  3. #3403
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    Mar 2015
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    "carbine-infested rural (and suburban) areas"
    I showed it to one of Briley's gunsmiths. He said he wouldn't be able to say without putting it in the lathe and seeing if the front sight base cleared the jaws. But I wasn't ready to spend the money for him to cut it if it worked (I'm kinda OK with no chokes and FC on this gun), so we didn't find out.
    .
    -----------------------------------------
    Not another dime.

  4. #3404
    So I am still trying to finalize my light setup. I have a couple more options to try but ideally I want a surefire 300 with a remote switch. It occurred to me that I had a Magpul cantilever scout mount lying around. I attached it and it looks like it’s going to work. Ideally I would prefer something a hair higher to clear the Handguard better and with tabs that lock it down on either side of the clamps edges since it’s only held by one screw. However it is tight and it’s not moving as it sits. Sorry for the lighting. The wife is asleep and I took the pics quick.
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    Last edited by sigfla; 05-22-2020 at 12:46 AM.

  5. #3405
    Member GearFondler's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Southeast Louisiana
    ^^^ I'd bet it will rotate under recoil, but maybe not... Cool idea anyway.

  6. #3406
    Site Supporter
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    May 2015
    Location
    America
    What barrel clamp is that? Is it possible to use longer bolts to secure the magpul mount to the clamp using the same holes in the clamp. Drill the magpul mount to match?

  7. #3407
    Quote Originally Posted by Poconnor View Post
    What barrel clamp is that? Is it possible to use longer bolts to secure the magpul mount to the clamp using the same holes in the clamp. Drill the magpul mount to match?
    It is a Nordic clamp. The screw holes on the Magpul are super close but not exact. Its about a 1/4 width of a screw head off. You could drill a new hole in the center but I am not sure how much that would weaken it. There are a few ways you could prob make it work though. Pity b/c the one thing I believe the Nordic clamp requires is a cantilever mount. The Scout interface on the Magpul is a bonus. I dunno if a 3d print guy could make something up that would hold up to the strain but so far this approach looks good.

    Ideally a similar mount but with correct screw spacing (either using the 2 nordic clamp screws or a combination of one mount screw and the center accessory screw hole) would work. If you used the 2 mounting holes on the Nordic you would have to shorten one Nordic screw so you could mount the cantilever rail from the other side using the same hole. I am not sure you are gaining much from the 870 type mount but I'll hopefully know for sure later today. Ideally I had hoped to use the Scout interface vs a Picatinny rail clamp.

  8. #3408
    Ok, minor update. Taking into account GearFondler's comment I tried to twist the mount by hand. It will rotate with some force. It likely wouldn't hold up to recoil. I decided to shave the recoil lugs down so the bottom was flat and I would have more surface area contacting the clamp. This caused the mount to interfere in the bottom rear corner with the forearm slightly. A quick shave with the dremel to take that corner down a bit and it all fits together nice and tight. It is very low profile and would be even more so with a Scout mounted light. The light is aimed well and not too far outboard of the barrel even with a clamp mount. This particular light isn't hitting my new front sight so it won't charge the glow in the dark chevron. I little wider throw or perhaps a Scout mounted light will help recharge the front sight. My IWC mount on my M4 does that and its nice b/c its just enough light to charge the sight but the majority is on target.

    Shaving down the lugs allowed for a lot more solid contact with the clamp surface and it isn't budging now when I try to torque on it. I am sure that others can come up with a more solid way to mount this. I suppose you could even build up some epoxy or glue a block where it overhangs the clamp and that would prohibit twist even more. Ideally a guy with a drill press could drill out a secondary screw hole or even fix the two existing ones but that would bring the mount further forward. The forearm interference would no longer be an issue then but the light might be too far forward to use anything short. I will be testing it out this weekend so we shall see how it holds up with my cheapo S&W light. My intention is to use a Scout light with a remote so light placement isn't as critical as long as its not past the muzzle.

  9. #3409
    FYI I just got this email notification
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  10. #3410
    Site Supporter
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    Aug 2012
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    Central Front Range, CO
    Quote Originally Posted by sigfla View Post
    FYI I just got this email notification
    Already out of stock

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