Beretta 1301 Tactical

[lurkmode]

Anyone experiencing their CROM screws walking after a range session? and are you using vibrate, blue, or even red loctite

[Paul Blackburn]

I use blue 243 and have never had a problem with any screw on any firearm.

[lurkmode]

Same experience here. Maybe I should add more 243 and crank on it a tad more.

[TCinVA]

Anyone experiencing their CROM screws walking after a range session? and are you using vibrate, blue, or even red loctite

Adam includes VibraTite VC3 in the package with the CROM.

Expect that anything you fasten to a 12 gauge will work loose as you shoot it if you are not using some form of thread locker. Same goes for slide-mounted optics. It's not a "nice to have", it's a requirement or shit will shoot loose in short order.

Thread locker needs to be applied carefully, including proper degreasing and cleaning of the fastener and the work piece (receiver in this case) to achieve a lasting mount.

I did a little writeup on how LocTite works here:

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....er-information

That was mainly done to give what the actual manufacturer of the product says about proper use of the product in their own training. I just got sick of reading nonsense about LocTite on the web from people who clearly had no idea how it works.

But I typically use Vibra-Tite VC3 on my optics mounts. (Including handguns, rifles, and shotguns) VC3 sets up more like pine tree sap instead of essentially a more crystal-like solid structure of the LocTite. This seems to make it more forgiving of errors in application, at least in my observation. With LocTite if you don't get it completely clean or you interfere with the curing process with vibration the solid structure you're relying on doesn't set up and so the fastener moves. VC3 tends to do a better job if application is imperfect, and it holds up under the shock and vibration of the 12 gauge very well.

My process for application is simple:

- Use a minimum of 90% isopropyl alcohol (99 is best if you can get it) to pour into a shallow tray. Put on some nitrile or rubber gloves.
- Submerge all the fasteners you will use in the alcohol while you set everything else up
- Pull the fasteners out with tweezers or tongs and set it on a blue shop towel to dry in the open air
- Apply VC3 to the first 1/4 or 1/3 of the threads on the fastener. Note that the "first" threads are those that will be going into the work piece, not the threads closest to the head. I will use a small paint brush (that has also been cleaned in the alcohol) to spread the VC3 around the threads, including pushing it into the recesses of the thread.
- Let the VC3 set up for 5-10 minutes. It should be pretty tacky by that point.
- Tighten the fastener to desired torque. If you've used enough, you'll see just a little bit of the VC3 come oozing out around the head of the fastener.

If you do that and let the gun sit for a couple of hours, things should be fine. I've let it sit for as little as an hour and shot the gun with no problems afterwards. But longer time left alone is better. It doesn't need the same cure time as loctite, but it does need some to set up.

[OldRunner/CSAT Neighbor]

Adam includes VibraTite VC3 in the package with the CROM.

Expect that anything you fasten to a 12 gauge will work loose as you shoot it if you are not using some form of thread locker. Same goes for slide-mounted optics. It's not a "nice to have", it's a requirement or shit will shoot loose in short order.

Thread locker needs to be applied carefully, including proper degreasing and cleaning of the fastener and the work piece (receiver in this case) to achieve a lasting mount.

I did a little writeup on how LocTite works here:

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....er-information

That was mainly done to give what the actual manufacturer of the product says about proper use of the product in their own training. I just got sick of reading nonsense about LocTite on the web from people who clearly had no idea how it works.

But I typically use Vibra-Tite VC3 on my optics mounts. (Including handguns, rifles, and shotguns) VC3 sets up more like pine tree sap instead of essentially a more crystal-like solid structure of the LocTite. This seems to make it more forgiving of errors in application, at least in my observation. With LocTite if you don't get it completely clean or you interfere with the curing process with vibration the solid structure you're relying on doesn't set up and so the fastener moves. VC3 tends to do a better job if application is imperfect, and it holds up under the shock and vibration of the 12 gauge very well.

My process for application is simple:

- Use a minimum of 90% isopropyl alcohol (99 is best if you can get it) to pour into a shallow tray. Put on some nitrile or rubber gloves.
- Submerge all the fasteners you will use in the alcohol while you set everything else up
- Pull the fasteners out with tweezers or tongs and set it on a blue shop towel to dry in the open air
- Apply VC3 to the first 1/4 or 1/3 of the threads on the fastener. Note that the "first" threads are those that will be going into the work piece, not the threads closest to the head. I will use a small paint brush (that has also been cleaned in the alcohol) to spread the VC3 around the threads, including pushing it into the recesses of the thread.
- Let the VC3 set up for 5-10 minutes. It should be pretty tacky by that point.
- Tighten the fastener to desired torque. If you've used enough, you'll see just a little bit of the VC3 come oozing out around the head of the fastener.

If you do that and let the gun sit for a couple of hours, things should be fine. I've let it sit for as little as an hour and shot the gun with no problems afterwards. But longer time left alone is better. It doesn't need the same cure time as loctite, but it does need some to set up.

should be a SG sticky IMO.

[lurkmode]

Adam includes VibraTite VC3 in the package with the CROM.

Expect that anything you fasten to a 12 gauge will work loose as you shoot it if you are not using some form of thread locker. Same goes for slide-mounted optics. It's not a "nice to have", it's a requirement or shit will shoot loose in short order.

Thread locker needs to be applied carefully, including proper degreasing and cleaning of the fastener and the work piece (receiver in this case) to achieve a lasting mount.

I did a little writeup on how LocTite works here:

https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....er-information

That was mainly done to give what the actual manufacturer of the product says about proper use of the product in their own training. I just got sick of reading nonsense about LocTite on the web from people who clearly had no idea how it works.

But I typically use Vibra-Tite VC3 on my optics mounts. (Including handguns, rifles, and shotguns) VC3 sets up more like pine tree sap instead of essentially a more crystal-like solid structure of the LocTite. This seems to make it more forgiving of errors in application, at least in my observation. With LocTite if you don't get it completely clean or you interfere with the curing process with vibration the solid structure you're relying on doesn't set up and so the fastener moves. VC3 tends to do a better job if application is imperfect, and it holds up under the shock and vibration of the 12 gauge very well.

My process for application is simple:

- Use a minimum of 90% isopropyl alcohol (99 is best if you can get it) to pour into a shallow tray. Put on some nitrile or rubber gloves.
- Submerge all the fasteners you will use in the alcohol while you set everything else up
- Pull the fasteners out with tweezers or tongs and set it on a blue shop towel to dry in the open air
- Apply VC3 to the first 1/4 or 1/3 of the threads on the fastener. Note that the "first" threads are those that will be going into the work piece, not the threads closest to the head. I will use a small paint brush (that has also been cleaned in the alcohol) to spread the VC3 around the threads, including pushing it into the recesses of the thread.
- Let the VC3 set up for 5-10 minutes. It should be pretty tacky by that point.
- Tighten the fastener to desired torque. If you've used enough, you'll see just a little bit of the VC3 come oozing out around the head of the fastener.

If you do that and let the gun sit for a couple of hours, things should be fine. I've let it sit for as little as an hour and shot the gun with no problems afterwards. But longer time left alone is better. It doesn't need the same cure time as loctite, but it does need some to set up.

I appreciate this! Thx. Ill do this tonight and let you know how the next session goes

[Crow Hunter]

Anyone own both a 1301 Comp (21" or 24") and a 1301 Tactical?

If you do, would you do it again or would you only purchase one of them?

Anyone using their 1301 Comp as a HD shotgun?

I have the Comp 24" with extended tubes that I am using as a hunting shotgun, and I like it, but I am not 100% sold on using it in the HD role. (Length/lack of sights)

However, I am also hesitant to spend $1,400 to get a Tactical that I may not ever use.

[Oldherkpilot]

However, I am also hesitant to spend $1,400 to get a Tactical that I may not ever use.

I've been saying the same thing about life insurance for 35 years!😁 Seriously, I am most pleased with my Tactical and contemplating a Comp for sporting/hunting use. I'll be following your thread with fear and trembling.

[mmc45414]

Anyone own both a 1301 Comp (21" or 24") and a 1301 Tactical?

If you do, would you do it again or would you only purchase one of them?

Anyone using their 1301 Comp as a HD shotgun?

I have the Comp 24" with extended tubes that I am using as a hunting shotgun, and I like it, but I am not 100% sold on using it in the HD role. (Length/lack of sights)

However, I am also hesitant to spend $1,400 to get a Tactical that I may not ever use.

I briefly owned both, but my Comp is 21".
I decided that the Tactical wasn't that much shorter, and a friend wanted one, and I was horny to buy something else.
But since then I have shifted my three gun shooting over to open class, and now my 21" gun has a goofy long tube on it so it is not short anymore.
I think maybe I might get another Tactical so that I have a practical defense shotgun.
Or I might get another Comp, but with 24", and move the long tube over there.
Part of this decision matrix revolves around getting the MRO setup on the Comp, maybe then I will decide if maybe I want a Tactical, or a second Comp (configured differently).
Either way, this is something I will troll for, not just run right out and jump on.

[delphidoc]

My wrists are stove up and shooting shotguns with a conventional stock is awkward and a little painful. I like my Benelli SuperNova (my first shotgun) with its pistol-grip stock. I did a Form 1 and turned my Mossberg Shockwave into an SBS and put a Choate Mark 5 conventional stock on it. It's a good stock but my wrist didn't like it so I decided to put an AR-style pistol grip telescoping stock on it. Mesa Tactical makes the only metal stock adapter I could find. I put their kit on the SBS and I love it.

Mesa Tactical also makes an LEO Gen II Telescoping Stock Adapter kit for the 1301. It drops about an inch so the RDS I have mounted on a side saddle with rail works. They don't make a high tube kit for the 1301. https://mesatactical.com/products/le...301-12-ga.html

Some pics:





Conventional Beretta stock:





The Mesa Tactical aluminum adapter:





I like the tabbed ring that keeps the buffer tube in position while you're tightening the castle nut:





Finished product. LOP is 11 1/4" to 14 1/2" with a LimbSaver recoil pad on the milspec telescoping stock: