Beretta 1301 Tactical

[Lon]

Will C-Ya there! [emoji41][emoji106]


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Awesome!! Me and another guy from work are in it. He’s got a LTT-1301 he runs on SWAT.

[mmc45414]

Awesome!! Me and another guy from work are in it. He’s got a LTT-1301 he runs on SWAT.

I will be seeing how things roll with my 1301C.

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[shootist26]

Just purchased a 5 rd magazine tube from MGW to replace the factory 7 rd tube. I just like the lower weight especially with a light out front...I thought the extra 2 rds was noticeable.

Still looking for a standard forend cap as they all seem to be sold out.

I mentioned in an earlier post that the 5rd and 7rd mag springs are identical.

[mmc45414]

Still looking for a standard forend cap as they all seem to be sold out.

Would be an expensive route to travel, but Nordic makes this:
https://nordiccomp.com/categories/mxt-plug-cap/
But you still need the nut:
https://nordiccomp.com/categories/mx...-cz-weatherby/

[tactical1]

Hopefully the parts pipeline will catch up to demand and the OEM "O" rings will be readily available - don't know if this will offer a viable alternative.

FWIW - no "guarantees" on accuracy of measurements

[Clusterfrack]

Hopefully the parts pipeline will catch up to demand and the OEM "O" rings will be readily available - don't know if this will offer a viable alternative.

FWIW - no "guarantees" on accuracy of measurements

Excellent. Thanks for posting this. If you are able to test function, that would be helpful.

[trajiiic]

As I mentioned earlier, my shotgun has over 700 shells through it and has been cleaned after each range session. During my last disassembly I had to remove the barrel from the weapon using a rubber mallet because of carbon lock between the piston assembly and the magazine tube. This was likely caused by a failure of the o-ring inside of the piston assembly.

I've ordered a replacement o-ring and swapped it out. This is the broken o-ring with the new Beretta OEM replacement.


This is the magazine tube. I had given it a light cleaning after forcebly removing the barrel, but there seemed to still be high spots of carbon. So I scrubbed it with Hoppes and later CLP with a nylon brush for about 30 min. This is a before and after shot.





Here's a shot of the new o-ring seated in the piston assembly.

[Lon]

Well, it took me the better part of the weekend, but I went back through this entire thread from page 1. Reviewing the evolution of the 1301 was very interesting.

After reading all of this, I got to thinking about the factory forearm and a way to add rail space to that forearm. Has anyone used some JB weld in addition to a couple of screws to secure a piece of rail to the forearm?

I don’t really want to spend the extra $$ for the Zhukov mod if I don’t have to. This will be a work gun so having a good flashlight and a sling is a must.

I’m also torn about the 507 that came with this. I’m thinking I may want an enclosed emitter optic instead. Who’s used any of the Vortex optics on these? Anyone? I’ve got a Crossfire I took off my Stoeger sitting on my workbench.

[kwb377]

After reading all of this, I got to thinking about the factory forearm and a way to add rail space to that forearm. Has anyone used some JB weld in addition to a couple of screws to secure a piece of rail to the forearm?

I don’t really want to spend the extra $$ for the Zhukov mod if I don’t have to. This will be a work gun so having a good flashlight and a sling is a must.

I thought I had posted my rail mod somewhere in the thread...if not, I meant to.

I've done this same mod on several shotguns (Benelli Nova and SuperNova, Rem. 1187P), and did it to my 1301 as soon as I picked one up. I use plastic Magpul rails...if you use MLok, you'll need to sand the locating nubs off the back side...if using MOE rails, they just screw right onto the forearm. I suppose you could use any brand of rail and even aluminum if you wanted, but I've not had any issue with the plastic rails. I've attached them just using stainless steel screws and haven't had them loosen...a dab of Gorilla Glue or JB Weld on the rear would ensure they never come loose. Probably 800 - 1000 round total through all guns with the rails attached without problems (I checked the screws on one after a couple hundred rounds, and it tightened an additional @ 1/8th of a turn...not sure if it loosened under recoil or I just didn't torque it all the way on assembly).

I've since switched to an Aridus handguard...not because I had issues with my homemade job, just because I got it stupid cheap from another PF member.





Same set-up on the Benelli and Remington...

[Lon]

I thought I had posted my rail mod somewhere in the thread...if not, I meant to.

I've done this same mod on several shotguns (Benelli Nova and SuperNova, Rem. 1187P), and did it to my 1301 as soon as I picked one up. I use plastic Magpul rails...if you use MLok, you'll need to sand the locating nubs off the back side...if using MOE rails, they just screw right onto the forearm. I suppose you could use any brand of rail and even aluminum if you wanted, but I've not had any issue with the plastic rails. I've attached them just using stainless steel screws and haven't had them loosen...a dab of Gorilla Glue or JB Weld on the rear would ensure they never come loose. Probably 800 - 1000 round total through all guns with the rails attached without problems (I checked the screws on one after a couple hundred rounds, and it tightened an additional @ 1/8th of a turn...not sure if it loosened under recoil or I just didn't torque it all the way on assembly).

I've since switched to an Aridus handguard...not because I had issues with my homemade job, just because I got it stupid cheap from another PF member.





Same set-up on the Benelli and Remington...

Thanks for the pics. Your post is what got me thinking about it adding the JB weld. I just couldn’t remember which page I saw it on and frankly didn’t want to wade back through everything. I’ve got some extra pieces of rail to play around with. Think I’ll give this a try.