Beretta 1301 Tactical

[Centerfire]

I'm going to be doing the exact same thing you did. Just wanted to confirm a few things

-Anything else I need to disassemble other than removing the barrel, handguard, bolt assembly, and trigger housing group?
-did you keep the blowtorch flame on the outside of the receiver or hit the threaded area of the magazine tube?
-how damaged was your 7 round tube after you got it out? Would it still be usable?
-do you just thread the new tube into the receiver until it bottoms out or is there a maximum depth you want to thread into?

There is a post in response to mine from a Beretta employee that I would encourage you to read. I used a heat gun but must not have gotten it quite hot enough. Beretta smiths use something like a barrel vice to clamp the tube to keep from destroying it. I used Knipex Cobra pliers and destroyed the tube. The old tube was no longer round when I was done.

You only need to do a basic field strip. I clamped the receiver in a padded vice. Don't put an open flame to the receiver. Unless you have opened up the receiver opening, the new tube just threads in without modification.

[Pnut]

I posted a link a while back posted by some competitive shooter who blogged about removing and replacing his mag tube. He said he drilled a hole through the tube and placed a rod through it to use as a T-handle. I think he drilled his hole opposite of the hole used to retain the mag spring retainer at the end of the tube.

[Caballoflaco]

RE ammo: my 21” 1301 comp runs great with 7/8 oz @1150fps skeet loads. And they’re ohh so soft to shoot, probably less recoil than an AK in 7.62x39 and slightly more than an AR.

[Lon]

I know many of you really like the CROM, but I wasn’t happy with it. Didn’t care for how the rear sight appeared in the window. So I decided to play around with this Aimpoint mount from Rusty Nuts Designs. For whatever reason, the way the factory rear and Aimpoint window/dot line up works out better for me.

[Paul Blackburn]

I know many of you really like the CROM, but I wasn’t happy with it. Didn’t care for how the rear sight appeared in the window. So I decided to play around with this Aimpoint mount from Rusty Nuts Designs. For whatever reason, the way the factory rear and Aimpoint window/dot line up works out better for me.

With this BOBRO mount https://www.mountsplus.com/bobro-mro-mount-low.html you get;

Lowest profile QD mount 0.080 from top of rail to center of optic vs 0.094-0.096

Only weighs 2.2 oz

Retains the fully adjustable windage and elevation of the OEM LPA rear sight.

Offers co-witness with OEM Sights

Sights will appear like this

[Pnut]

I went with the Rusty Nuts mount with my MRO red dot. Initially I had the MRO mounted to the factory rail with the Trijicon LOW mount. The LOW mount is advertised to put the dot .99” high. My iron sights were completely blocked. The RN setup puts the irons in a lower 1/3 view.

This is my experience with the MRO, so I don’t know how it would setup with other RDS’s.

[shootist26]

I know many of you really like the CROM, but I wasn’t happy with it. Didn’t care for how the rear sight appeared in the window. So I decided to play around with this Aimpoint mount from Rusty Nuts Designs. For whatever reason, the way the factory rear and Aimpoint window/dot line up works out better for me.

Why the overhang? would the aimpoint not be low enough if mounted over the receiver?

[Paul Blackburn]

Out of all the current options I like the Holoson 507 c on a CROM with my DIY MOD Bravo 3/4 Aperture

Its the lightest optic/mount combo at 2.8 oz and provides the best co-witness IMO

It also obscures your FOV the least. When you're pointed in on the high chest you can still see the head and to the immediate right and left.

This is actually the circle dot but my phone blurs it all together

[Lon]

Why the overhang? would the aimpoint not be low enough if mounted over the receiver?

Good question. The other mounts I’ve seen aren’t as low as this one. I do like the photos of the BOBRO mount a couple of posts up.

[Pnut]

I was brainstorming the purpose of the overhang when I was mounting my MRO. I believe it’s there so the optic can mount to the piece without interfering with the rail/receiver screws. I’ve read of in some applications of the CROM, the forward receiver screw might be partially covered by the optic, so careful attention has to be used when tightening it down.