I haven’t found any good deals on Gen 2’s. There’s a Gen 1 Viper local for $800 if you can deal with the cameo pattern. No screw in chokes.Originally Posted by JSGlock34
I haven’t found any good deals on Gen 2’s. There’s a Gen 1 Viper local for $800 if you can deal with the cameo pattern. No screw in chokes.
“If you know the way broadly you will see it in everything." - Miyamoto Musashi
I bought a 1301T year ago. I've had a problem with the lifter getting caught on the bolt release when the bolt is locked backed. I could push the lifter until it shifted sideways and got stuck. It has been getting stuck under recoil more often lately. I came up with a cheap fix today that I think has fixed it. Now I can't push the lifter down (gun is upside down) and sideways to make it stick anymore. In fact I can't budge the lifter at all. I'll try it tomorrow at the range.
My fix is to place an ordinary 1/4" flat washer on the end of the carrier bushing. It fits there like it was supposed to be there in the first place. Reassembling the trigger group is no problem at all with the washer on. It keeps the lifter from shifting sideways and getting stuck on the bolt release.
I took some short video clips of before and after on my phone but the files are too large to email to myself for uploading. If you want to see them PM me and I'll text them to you. Here's a few screen shots showing where the washer goes.
Last edited by delphidoc; 11-10-2019 at 08:46 PM.
I had that happen to my 1301 Gen 2. I sent it back to Beretta. They sent a prepaid pickup box and fixed it very quickly.
“There is no growth in the comfort zone.”--Jocko Willink
"You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
Has anyone noticed that scratch/ring on the magazine tube, near the piston getting worse with use?
Or is it a self limiting wear pattern?
I read about that early on as the one thing that goes wrong as round counts climb (3-gun levels of shooting). I could find the replacement tubes for about 40 Euro online. I'd imagine BUSA could supply them, but I couldn't find them actually listed anywhere in the US. I had contacted BUSA about other parts and been told that Brownell's was the exclusive authorized seller of Beretta parts. At that time, Brownell's was charging more for Beretta parts than the same parts on the BUSA site at MSRP, and that pretty much pissed me off. They seem to have changed their approach at least a little since then and I no longer loathe and resent them as much. (Actually, I'm pretty much over it and consider that ancient history. Their service is awesome and I spend a decent amount of money with them. I especially like when they have free shipping with no minimum, you backorder half a dozen little parts and they all ship out whenever they come into stock. But when I can identify their supplier selling the same item for half the price, I buy it from the supplier. Because 100+ percent markup from retail is always bogus.)
My personal evaluation of the piston was that the ID machined edges seemed pretty sharp feeling. Not an obvious burr, but maybe microscopic ones, enough to wear the tube. I hit the ID with very fine wet-dry sandpaper and oil until the machined edges no longer felt sharp. Solvent cleaned it to be sure all the steel powder and fractured aluminum oxide were off it before reassembling. Haven't put enough rounds through it to declare victory yet, but I am reasonably confident mine will wear more slowly than it otherwise would have.
I understand the pistons on the second gen have some kind of coating. It's discussed earlier in this thread.
Last edited by OlongJohnson; 11-13-2019 at 04:34 PM.
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Not another dime.
So I think I'm finally done, lol.
I wasn't happy with the placement of my WML or the forward sling anchor.
I was using the barrel clamp that comes with the Nordic +2 extension because that was the best way I could run a light and a sling... Sling on the left side, light on the right activated via a left-side pressure switch on the forend.
Note that if you mount the sling in front of the receiver it hangs great but interferes with access to the side saddle. And at the front of the forend the sling would preclude a right-side light if using the +2 Nordic... Thus my best compromise was using the barrel clamp.
It worked just fine but made it impossible to easily field strip the shotgun. Having to first remove the light, then the picatinny rail and QD point from the barrel clamp, then the clamp itself, just to break it down was simply too much.
So here's my final solution... by adding a Magpul light mount everything moves to the Zhukov forend, works correctly without interference, and allows OEM style field stripping. I also modded the pressure switch to mount directly to the forend sans a picatinny rail. Now it all looks much better, works much better, and the balance is slightly better by dropping a few ounces and moving the weight back a touch.
On a side note, I finally added the Aridus Q-DC... It's heavier than velcro cards but damn it's nicely built! My only complaint is that if you remove the carrier to run a lighter gun you are left with the world's biggest snag point thanks to the release tab on the carrier base. Still worth it for how well it works in every other way.
Nice.
I think this method of light/switch mounting is the best reason for going to the Zhukov foreend.
I did a similar thing, but haven’t gone to the sidesaddle yet, as I’m concerned about strong hand interference when operating as a southpaw.
Buy a single 6 rd velcro shell card from anywhere just to try it out and see... Then for only $20 you can experiment for yourself.
I joined this group after reading this thread on the 1301T and seeing all the 1301T gurus; Tim, Adam, Erik, etc. What a Who’s Who... Here’s the latest iteration of mine. I just picked up the awesome Aridus CROM for my Holosun 507C and will post about its invasion and occupation of my shotty... 🤓 Looking forward to sharing my experiences.
Just bought a 1301T and I have a few questions about it and Aridus parts, maybe you guys can help answer:
The Aimpoint CompM5 could potentially mount to a CROM but the bottom of its window starts 2mm higher than a T-2. Would the CompM5 still cowitness? Any reason not to choose a CompM5 over a T-2?
Are there tritium front beads for that fit this thing?
Is the Beretta kickoff stock worth looking into for a 1301T
Do barrels or any other parts interchange between a 1301T and other Beretta shotguns e.g A400?
Is there any reason a 1301 couldn’t be SBR’d without losing reliability?
@e_stern
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