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Thread: Streamlight TLR VIR 2 + Shotgun?

  1. #1
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    Streamlight TLR VIR 2 + Shotgun?

    Has anyone tried this, or any streamlight TLR products with laser, on a shotgun? Do they hold up? I'm specifically interested in the VIR 2, but all data is welcome. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Site Supporter StraitR's Avatar
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    I canít answer your specific question on the TLR product, because Iíve not used one on a shotgun, but Iíve seen it posted by @TCinVA that batteries are often the failure point in lights mounted on shotguns. Side by side (like on pistol WML) tend to fair better than inline batteries, and that best practice for light longevity/reliability is to remove the light for standard daylight shooting sessions.

    Iím using an X300u on my 1301T, and do as Tim suggested out of precaution. I canít see the TLR breaking in a single tubeís worth of buckshot, but would definitely test to confirm. After which, take it off for range trips and put it back on for HD.

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    Quote Originally Posted by StraitR View Post
    I canít answer your specific question on the TLR product, because Iíve not used one on a shotgun, but Iíve seen it posted by @TCinVA that batteries are often the failure point in lights mounted on shotguns. Side by side (like on pistol WML) tend to fair better than inline batteries, and that best practice for light longevity/reliability is to remove the light for standard daylight shooting sessions.

    Iím using an X300u on my 1301T, and do as Tim suggested out of precaution. I canít see the TLR breaking in a single tubeís worth of buckshot, but would definitely test to confirm. After which, take it off for range trips and put it back on for HD.
    That kindof wrecks the ir laser aspect, which is the sole reason I considered it.

  4. #4
    Site Supporter StraitR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Unobtanium View Post
    That kindof wrecks the ir laser aspect, which is the sole reason I considered it.
    Yup, it would. Maybe @GearFondler can you some feedback. I noticed a TLR on his 1301T in the shotgun photo thread HERE.

  5. #5
    Member GearFondler's Avatar
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    All I can tell you is I have a TLR-1HL on my 1301T and it has held up just fine over the course of about 500 rounds, 1/4 of which were full power loads. I never remember to take it off first and it still works and the batteries are not crushed, the nipples not even dented. I have no idea how well the IR electronics would stand up to the recoil.
    Oh, and the pressure switch option Streamlight offers for the TLR is hot garbage. The plug that goes into the light broke twice on me before got the hint... Once just from plugging it in when it was brand new and the replacement broke during the first range session. After that I went back to the tried and true toggle switch with no issues.

  6. #6
    Murder Machine, Harmless Fuzzball TCinVA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StraitR View Post
    I canít answer your specific question on the TLR product, because Iíve not used one on a shotgun, but Iíve seen it posted by @TCinVA that batteries are often the failure point in lights mounted on shotguns.
    Name:  batteryouch.jpg
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    The batteries certainly take a beating, as that dished out negative side shows. But the batteries beat the shit out of the contact points and that kills the device itself. Physics doesn't take a day off, so as the gun moves in recoil the batteries get slammed into both contact points over and over again. Proper recoil mitigation seems to minimize this phenomenon...but the best practice is to remove the batteries when you are doing daylight training.

    That being said, I've fired thousands of shells through my main 1301 with an X300 mounted to it and so far the only issue I've encountered is the pin that holds the switch on the back has started to walk out. Recoil forces with the batteries in it will kill it eventually, but it's holding up to the abuse very well.
    3/15/2016

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TCinVA View Post
    Name:  batteryouch.jpg
Views: 82
Size:  27.6 KB

    The batteries certainly take a beating, as that dished out negative side shows. But the batteries beat the shit out of the contact points and that kills the device itself. Physics doesn't take a day off, so as the gun moves in recoil the batteries get slammed into both contact points over and over again. Proper recoil mitigation seems to minimize this phenomenon...but the best practice is to remove the batteries when you are doing daylight training.

    That being said, I've fired thousands of shells through my main 1301 with an X300 mounted to it and so far the only issue I've encountered is the pin that holds the switch on the back has started to walk out. Recoil forces with the batteries in it will kill it eventually, but it's holding up to the abuse very well.
    This is one thing I noted about Scout light heads. They have a plastic platform to absorb battery impact under recoil. Its part of why I really like Surefire products. They aren't always the most daring or up to date in the performance/output sector, but they are the Toyota. Very well engineered.

  8. #8
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    I put an o-ring on the top of the battery to protect it after killing 3 with my 1301. Donít have a ton of rounds on it yet, but so far it is working and the battery isnít damaged.

  9. #9
    Member gato naranja's Avatar
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    I have been running a TLR-1 (no laser) of some sort on a shotgun for a while, and have not had a problem... BUT...

    The light is now essentially only on the gun at home or when it goes along on an overnighter. That was why the GG&G and now the Magpul forend with a short rail section are on the gun. I wanted a QD light in case it crapped out.

    That being said, I have not had one fail during a practice session or any other time. My older 870 that had an original TLR-1 was used more, and while the gun is gone, the light still works.
    gn

    (un VIEJO gato naranja... and still skeptical about humans)

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