The Streamlight forend is pretty much antithetical to push-pull due to the ergos.
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The Streamlight forend is pretty much antithetical to push-pull due to the ergos.
Hmm. It feels weird to quote myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by gato naranja
Anyway, is there a consensus on whether the recoil pad on the Magpul SGA stock is reasonably effective vs a Limbsaver or the old Remington Supercell pads? The short LOP Remington synthetic stock has an R3 pad (which I believe is a Supercell), but it also has a small "footprint", so it - in theory - doesn't spread out the recoil like a larger pad would. The Magpul pad that came on the SGA is a fair amount stiffer than the R3, but with the current troubles, Remington parts are iffy.
I am poised to pony up the additional $ for a MAG 318 pad adapter and a Limbsaver #10101 unless someone pulls me back from that particular cliff.
I don’t have any problems with the stock Magpul pad and have their stock on three guns. In fact I’m headed out this morning to shoot 100+ rounds (1oz target loads) at sporting clays with my 870.Quote:
Originally Posted by gato naranja
My gut tells me that at some point my hand would slide right along & past the Streamlight forend, the "notch" being little more a reverse speed bump.Quote:
Originally Posted by LHS
The standout feature that I see on the old Laser Products forend through today's Surefire DSF 870 that might be a plus especially for the push-pull technique is the fact that the things all have a built-in front "handstop." During the time I have used my old GG&G forend, I have occasionally been sloppy and inadvertently used a TLR-1 at 3:00 as a handstop.
Most unpleasant.
I tend to agree, just suggested the Streamlight as an alternative. The notch did seem to be a detriment to me. The 'hump' on the surefire is one of the reasons I didn't care for them.Quote:
Originally Posted by gato naranja
Why not just use one of these with a conventional WML:
https://brightguy.com/product/stream...ag-tube-mount/
I have one of them on an 870 using an old Streamlight M3.
About ten years ago, I tried a number of light mounts that either clamped around the tube(s) or got sandwiched between the magazine nut/extension/barrel ring. I found out that I suck at manipulating weaponlight switches even worse than normal when the light isn't on the forend of an 870. If someone else was as bad, I'd find it comical AND pitiful.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Lehr
I can see why the Benellis and 1301s sell well... If the recoil wasn't worse (given similar gun weights), I'd make the switch myself. Reciprocating forends can be a pain in the arse. My box of tried and rejected 870 gizmos is embarrassingly well stocked considering how seldom I use the flippin' thing.
FWIW, in my experience the 1201 recoils noticeably less than any 870 I’ve shot with similar barrel lengths, even though the beretta weighs a lb less.Quote:
Originally Posted by gato naranja
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I use the push/pull technique and have not had a problem with the TL Racker. I was pretty concerned the lower-hanging grip would throw things off but it's been fine so far.
I did have to put some abrasive step/skateboard tape on it. I have to do this with every shotgun fore-end, though. This includes the Magpul and (especially) the first generation SureFire I have on another 870.
I have been told that the Magpul MOE forend for an 870 is quite useable for the push-pull technique. Has anyone got a mount suggestion that might successfully put a scout light at the 10:30 or 11:00 position near the front of a Magpul MOE forend?
(IOW, position the shotgun light similarly to my carbine setup. Sure be easier to remember, if nothing else.)
Honestly, I evolved into my current support hand technique of only using three fingers to grip the forend, and pointing my index finger at the target, as a response to banging my forefinger against the Surefire 'hump' (though I've also found that it unkinks my wrist and reduces fatigue from absorbing all that recoil as well). Any kind of forward handstop gets unpleasant when it's transmitting recoil to your support hand. I've come to vastly prefer some kind of tacky (Hogue overmolded, or similar) or textured (skateboard tape, stippling) surface on my forends. I'm actually pondering hitting my 1301 forend with some bedliner to see if that gives me some more tackiness and cushion compared to the factory checkering (which isn't bad at all, mind you.)Quote:
Originally Posted by gato naranja
Especially in recent years, with the prevalence of handstops on carbines all over the place, I've seen numerous students show up with handstops on a shotgun only to run off and remove them during water breaks. I definitely see the benefit in having one on a super-shorty gun just to prevent having your hand jump in front of the muzzle, but it's not something you want to deliberately press up against.