This is an imported shotgun.
That is not likely anytime soon.
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@SpyderMan2k4, a couple of thoughts on possible future projects I would love to see from you...
1. A metal knob charging handle... aluminum, titanium, whatever, as long as it's not the breakable plastic knob that the 1301T comes with now.
I know that Briley makes one but I haven't heard anything good about it (loose fit and possible reliability issues is what I've read).
2. Something better than the rubber tab that is present on the bolt release of the Gen2 1301T. It is rather ugly, not particularly easy to use for ejecting shells from the magazine, and I have a hard time imagining that it will hold up in the long term. I'm betting that with time and use it will end up slipping off to be lost forever.
My Zharkov came in the mail a couple days ago. I haven’t had the chance to install it yet.
I'm finding quite a bit of lead fouling in my 1301 Tac after firing 10-20 Foster style rifled slugs.
I've tried Hoppes and Butchs bore solvents with 10 gauge bore brush and also 12 gauge tornado brush.
As well as Ballistol with 12 gauge boresnake.
Anyone else finding this and/or have a good fix for removing or preventing lead fouling in a timely manner?
Takes forever to remove it all once a decent layer has accumulated from firing 20 or so slugs.
I should mention that I'm not doing any rapid fire. In fact being quite disciplined with at least 3 minutes between shots to allow barrel to cool off some during 50 and 100 yard target shooting.
Of all the brands I've tried, good ol Winchester 1 ounce 1600 feet per second rifled slugs are proving the most accurate to date.
Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.
Cleaning shotguns sucks, especially after shooting slugs. I’ve had good luck with a bronze brush on a cleaning rod, attached to a hand drill. The best solvent: Kroil. But be careful, this is a hazmat nightmare. Figure out how not to inhale the fumes, or spatter lead+solvent everywhere.
If you can afford it, this where ultrasonic cleaners shine. Getting one big enough to hold a 1301T barrel will probably be a 4-500 buck venture. Hornady makes one that is expensive but is designed from the gate to hold an aR15 upper and not require 30L of water (instead just 9).
I can confirm from 4 years with an A400, that this statement is accurate. I use mine for quail, dove, and ducks. I lube with Slip2000, and only clean it after duck season. Every time, it has had a lot of carbon but also mud in it. I t gets wet, it gets muddy, and it gets stored in a water resistant case. It has no rust.
Thank you for the advice! I'll have to try Kroil. I've seen at at my local gun store. Even tho it's not a true solvent, I'm assuming that because of its oil creeping ability it will get under/between the lead and barrel and loosen up their bond and then brush out more easily.
I do have a good respirator and have been wearing it when brushing with Butch's bore shine.
You're not kidding, it only took me a minute to realize the hazmat situation I was in. Lead in the air leaves just an awful taste in the mouth. I've worn the respirator even since.
Do you mop in the Kroil and let it set up for awhile before you go at it with the chucked bore brush in drill?
Will Kroil and a boresnake work well together?
I wonder if doing so after every 10 slugs or so might make the end of day cleaning that much less intensive.
Cheers